BallReviews
Equipment Boards => Hammer => Topic started by: royjak on November 08, 2009, 09:31:00 AM
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i have one and its sucks i have label drill goes down and in 10 board it is at 2000 currently with it at 2000 now the ball hits like crap and now i am at a crossroads one more bad session with this 200 dollar ball i might sell it at a loss avg speed 16-17 dont either go up to 1000 get it redrill or what HELP
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Well to tell you the truth royjak, this ball takes some time to break in before you get the performance you want. I have my jigsaw drilled pretty strong with the pin under ring finger and cg and mass bias stack straight down. I hated the OOB condition so i had to experiment at first. I know the ball respond better when i hit it with just 500 grit and some light polish. The polish actually improved the backend reaction. I say keep trying to experiment with the ball and if you dont like it then, redrill the ball and make it a tad stronger. Its a love it- hate it type ball but it has perform well playing down and in or swinging the whole lane. Hope this helps.
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Arsenal
Jigsaw
Black Widow Solid
Black Widow Pearl
Pearl Cherry Bomb
Hyrbid Dirty Bomb
Rayzr
Urethane Black Hammer
Hammer and Lane #1 make a good team.
Edited on 11/8/2009 7:16 PM
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You say you have it drilled "label". Where is the mass bias located? You may have the ball deilled too weak
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Arsenal: Mega Friction, S-75, Break Point x 2, Break x2,Break,Sideways,Clutch,Maniac,Awakening,Link,Hype urethane,Global Globe, 14# golden globe
Bowlingboards.com
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Should have bought a few lessons instead...
OR
Gone to a pro-shop that knows better than to put a ball like this in the hands of someone that doesn''t need it or how to drill it for a particular bowler.
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If you were both cross-eyed and dyslexic, would you see okay?
Edited on 11/8/2009 7:51 PM
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YOU KNOW THE 3 3/8 DRILLING THING LABEL LEV AND THANKS MR HURT24 FOR REPLY NEED MORE IDEAS PEOPLE
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BITE ME JMAC
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quote:
READ THE DRILL SHEET BEFORE YOU DECIDE WHAT DRILLING YOU REALLY NEED!
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That only works if a person understands what they are reading and is fully aware of what their ball speed, rev rate, axis rotation, and axis tilt are...
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If you were both cross-eyed and dyslexic, would you see okay?
Edited on 11/8/2009 8:07 PM
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Mr jak is your mass bias in a weak position. And plus you must be throwing the jigsaw on conditions that its not meant for. Polish the ball if you are not bowling on heavy oil. i polish my saw because i dont see heavy oil that often. It would be nice to know your stats and what type of bowler you are.
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Arsenal
Jigsaw
Black Widow Solid
Black Widow Pearl
Pearl Cherry Bomb
Hyrbid Dirty Bomb
Rayzr
Urethane Black Hammer
Hammer and Lane #1 make a good team.
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TWEETNER DOWN AND IN 10 BOARD
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TWEETNER DOWN AND IN 10 BOARD
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Of course there is also the possibility that he went to a shop that doesn't care or is clueless. There is one shop i know of in the area that sells you what they want to sell you rather than what you need. There is another that is clueless as far as layouts go. Unfortunately not every shop cares about doing it right. For them it's all about the $$$$
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Arsenal: Mega Friction, S-75, Break Point x 2, Break x2,Break,Sideways,Clutch,Maniac,Awakening,Link,Hype urethane,Global Globe, 14# golden globe
Bowlingboards.com
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WHY DO PEOPLE NOT UNDERSTAND!
royjak, what you have is a mis-match. Whoever sold you this ball with this drilling for this condition either had no clue what they were doing, or just didn''t care. If it was your own idea, you obviously have no clue as to what you actually needed for this condition.
The JIGSAW is a very strong ball with a cover designed for heavy, high oil volume. To use it in box finish on anything else is asking for it not to work properly. Then, to top it off, you have an early roll drilling on it. The ball you have, with the drilling you have, is pretty much designed for a total flood.
Strong cover, strong core, strong/early drilling in the hands of a tweener playing up the dirt equals poor reaction. 90% chance the ball is reading early, burning up, and rolling out, and reaching the pins D.O.A.
If it isn''t working, your only options are to change it somehow. The easiest way is to polish it, but that may not be enough. You may need to plug and re-drill it with a drilling that promotes length while helping to conserve energy until it reaches the breakpoint.
I don''t know your pap, tilt, rotation, or revs. Nor do I know the condition you bowl on, only that it doesn''t match the heavy oil ball you have, which leads me to believe the volume is too low for the ball. Therefore, it is impossible to comprise an accurate answer to your problem. All we can do is use the information you''ve given us to diagnose the problem, not formulate the cure.
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Good transactions list in my profile
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits."
Albert Einstein
Edited on 11/9/2009 8:29 AM
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+1000 for the above.
Happens all the time in a lot of proshops.
There is little difference in 1000, 2000, and 4000 grit. Leave it at 2000 4000 or 1000 where ever it is at right now and have the "proshop" put some polish on it. Mine out of the box was ok, I added polish and it was a beast. Most of the people I talked with that have one said the same thing. So before you sale it, plug it or do whatever try some polish and see if it helps.
Also post a vid of you bowling and a pic of any ball in question, if you don't know the answers to most questions a vid and a pic can go a long way.
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" hand, don't step on the lanes without some "
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quote:
The ball you have, with the drilling you have, is pretty much designed for a total flood.
He said its drilled label. Excellent length and smooth arc is meant for floods?
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Juggernaut is correct this si a very strong ball and strong coverstock. it basically has the same process done to teh cover stock as the Virtual Gravity.
If the ball is not matched correctly to a persons game then it will look like crap. But if it is done correctly then it looks amazing in the persons hand.
I have recently drill two of them for customers both women that don't have a lot of revs one has a little higher axis tilt than the other. I intentionally ordered long pin balls 4.5" - 5". I put the drill angle at 65° and used a 5 1/2" pin to PAP and the VAL angle at 25°, left the surface at OOB. The PSA ended up pretty much at thumb for them and the pin was about 2 1/2" above the bridge.
With this drilling the ball was very clean through the front part of the lane and read the midlane well and when the ball encountered friction if flat stood up in to a very nice roll.
One of them had about 7 more boards of hook than anything else she had, and the other about 5 boards. They were both able to get in an play a part of the lane they have never been able too.
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Rick Guined
Owner/Operator: New Millennium Proshop: http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/ff183/Guined/
Vise PBA Regional Staff Player
IBPSIA Certified Technician
USBC Bronze Certified Instructor
www.viseinserts.com
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Sounds to me that this ball is way to strong for what you bowl on and where you like to play, especially with having a Label drilling in it. If its hitting like crap and you play up 10 that probably means its burning up and has nothing left when it hits the pocket. Not sure what your particular reason for buying this particular ball was but my best suggestion is take it to 1000 with polish and give it a try.
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quote:
quote:
The ball you have, with the drilling you have, is pretty much designed for a total flood.
He said its drilled label. Excellent length and smooth arc is meant for floods?
The key word in the phrase above is YOU (meaning royjak). The matchup is too strong for what he is trying to do and would work much better for him on a much heavier condition to help prevent energy loss (burn out).
A label drilling( also called flare safe ) puts the pin to the positive side of the bowlers grip. Moving the pin towards the positive axis point inherently promotes earlier roll. MB in the track helps, but the MB in this ball isn't overly strong, so it would have a minimal effect.
While a label drill is a good drilling, when you couple a shorter pin-to-pap with an aggressive cover, you end up with a ball designed to roll very early, which is useless unless used on the proper volume of oil.
The balls characteristics OOB are for heavier oiled shots. The drilling, by nature, is an earlier rolling drilling, which work best on heavier oiled shots.
Now add in the fact that the bowler is a self professed tweener who plays closer to the dry boards, and you end up with someone who needs a very heavily oiled shot for the ball to operate as intended. That is why I mentioned surface change (polish) first, to help conserve enrgy and make the ball better on lower volumes of oil without burning up too early.
Label drilling does not propmote excellent length for everyone, it depends on the ball in question, the bowler in question, and the lane conditions in question. For this bowler, in this instance, this ball and drilling combination appear to be suited to a much heavier pattern.
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Good transactions list in my profile
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits."
Albert Einstein
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Its also not just drilled label or over label but leverage according to the owner.
"3 3/8 DRILLING THING LABEL LEV"
Which means the pin is in a strong position, and makes me wonder where the cg is located and if there is a weight hole somewhere.
If the cg is in the palm and the ball is not an x-out the mb is located somewhere well left of the thumb I would imagine.
I usually do not prefer taking such a strong reacting ball and drilling it this aggressive.
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" hand, don't step on the lanes without some "