BallReviews
Equipment Boards => Lane #1 => Topic started by: jjweb on September 29, 2006, 07:28:59 AM
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So I'm getting my Cobalt Pearl Pin above and between the fingers, and the MB (I know it's a symmetrical core) at 40 degrees.
As per my coach's recommendation.
Anybody have one drilled like that, what kind of reaction do you get?
Thanks!
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"Trying is the first step towards failure" - Homer Simpson
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Anybody use the layout above?
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"Trying is the first step towards failure" - Homer Simpson
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mines drillrd semi-pin-axis... Great ball, I'm sure the drilling your gona use will have a much stronger backend then mine...
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jj,
do you intend to use that ball on fairly dry oil patterns?
For an admittedly "low rev stroker", that's a very long pin distance, especially for a ball that gets this much natural length.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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My Cobalt is drilled Pin above and between the fingers, and mine is close to 40 degrees.. Mine has a 3 inch pin and a balance hole just above the center of my grip. I had struggled as of late with the reaction, leaving pocket 7-10's, washouts, ringing 10's... That was standing at 30 shooting across 15 out to 7 or 8 board and thrashing back to the pocket. With that line, if I pulled it a little that is where it would just ride the oil down and not quite make it back, leaving the washouts.. Last week I tried a different approach and was quite pleased! Standing 25, shooting 12 at the arrows, basically playing less of a swing and more of an arc shot! After a 479 last Friday, I shot a 606 this past Wednesday and decided to shoot the same shot on Friday and was rewarded with this decision after games of 231, 258, and 258 for my all time highest series of a 747... Yes, that layout is working for me!! Good Luck to you!!
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If at first you don't succeed
Throw another ball!
F.O.S. Member!!!
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I was worried about the pin being so high going too far down lane, simply because I have never had a ball with a pin above and between the fingers.
Let me see If I can give you an idea of the condition. My Passion is really too strong but carries the best, and I usually have to play really deep to keep it in play. The Paradigm rolls out on the back or checks up too soon, leaving zero energy for any type of backend movement. Then again it's mostly do to it's drilling and surface prep (it's good when playing between the oil and dry), and my Ravage hooks about 2-3' too soon.
I don't have anything that gives me continuous movement, other then my Passion and again that moves way too soon.
I'm not playing on a super dry pattern or a med-heavy, just right in between the two.
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"Trying is the first step towards failure" - Homer Simpson
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If that's the situation, jjweb, then this ball might just work. You will get length. Good luck.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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Oh I have a feeling this ball will work, it's a matter of the drill working for it.
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"Trying is the first step towards failure" - Homer Simpson
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On what I described above, what would you recommend as a better drill pattern?
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"Trying is the first step towards failure" - Homer Simpson
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Thats all I have my balls laid out as - pin up. I am a pin up kind of guy that needs length and then a left turn towards that pocket. For this perticular ball, I believe this will be a great layout for you.
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ÈĻ Arsenèl 
Track Mean Machine (Heavy)
Lane #1 Solid Cobalt Bomb (Heavy)
Lane #1 Dirty Bomb (Heavy-Medium)
Track Machine (Medium)
Lanemasters The Buzz (Medium)
Columbia Wicked B/R/T (Medium-Light)
Track Desert Heat (Light)
I throw it all, just give me a ball, I'll throw it. =]
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I'm not supposed to have it snap, only a heavy roll on the backend (that's what my coach wants).
I feel a little different, If it's a strong ball then I should drill it as such and see it's true characteristics. If it already has all of this built in length, then why do I really need to help it along?
By all means I have no problem creating length with my release, In fact it does get me into trouble sometimes.
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"Trying is the first step towards failure" - Homer Simpson
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Drill it label 1:30, and you will have a smooth arc with great continuation.
I have never been disappointed with this drill on any of my saws.
I drilled my Cobalt solid with the pin down and CG out, but I am seriosly considering adding a seconf Cobalt solid drilled label 1:30.
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Jon (in Ohio)
CHROME WON'T GET YOU HOME!
F.O.S. Proud Saw user...see profile.
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My daughters is drilled up simillar to what you are asking except the pin is above the ring finger and Cg is swung right about 1-1 1/4 inches she gets good length as long as she has oil once the shot dries up it gets really squirley she plays it up the lane with a slight swing standing on about the 15-17 board and playing 10-8 on the lanes.
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Don Smith
F.O.S. To The Bone
Cobalt (X1),Tsunami (X1`),Pearl Uranium,XXXL
Buzzsaw C/Carbide,XXL
thats just what I carry
Cobalt Bomb (NIB),BCB(X2-1 NIB),
Original SD(X2,NIB),
Golden Nugget,
Pearl Cherry Bomb (X3-1NIB 1 is 16Lb)
SCB,
H2O,
Pink Raspberry (X1-16Lb)
Black raspberry(X1-16Lb)
And Always Looking For More
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quote:
I'm not supposed to have it snap, only a heavy roll on the backend (that's what my coach wants).
I feel a little different, If it's a strong ball then I should drill it as such and see it's true characteristics. If it already has all of this built in length, then why do I really need to help it along?
By all means I have no problem creating length with my release, In fact it does get me into trouble sometimes.
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"Trying is the first step towards failure" - Homer Simpson
Ok, make up your mind. YOur original drill is for length and for playing a deep inside line or for really dry lanes or for a high rev cranker.
A med rev guy is not, in general, going to get a "heavy roll on the backend" with that drill UNLESS there's LOTS of dry and then only after LOTS of length,
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Edited on 10/2/2006 7:56 AM
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lane1who, I do track low.
PAP: 4 3/4 accross -- 11/16 up
I forgot I recored myself a couple of weeks ago in practice, I'll try and get the video up to give you an idea.
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"Trying is the first step towards failure" - Homer Simpson
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quote:
Drill it label 1:30, and you will have a smooth arc with great continuation. I have never been disappointed with this drill on any of my saws.
I've had just the opposite, I've had about zero luck with this drilling. But I see lots of people using it so I guess it's just not for me.
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Zues, this drilling works best with shorter pins, i.e. 1-2". Maybe you've used this layout with longer pins, which is why you haven't had much success..? =:^D
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I contacted Lane 1 and they recommend I drill it 5 X 4.
Any thoughts?
I'm trying to fix my stupid video camera.
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"Trying is the first step towards failure" - Homer Simpson
Edited on 10/3/2006 6:01 PM
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quote:
quote:
Drill it label 1:30, and you will have a smooth arc with great continuation. I have never been disappointed with this drill on any of my saws.
I've had just the opposite, I've had about zero luck with this drilling. But I see lots of people using it so I guess it's just not for me.
It very well could be a personal thing. I am a high tracking stroker. I have this drill (Label 1:30) on a Black Cherry Bomb (3" pin), Army Green Carbide Bomb (3.5" pin), Uranium Pearl (4" pin), Gold Nugget (4" pin), Bullet (4" pin), and XXXL (3" pin). I am having my second Super Carbide Bomb drilled this way also (3.5" pin).
The BCB, and the Army Green flare like mad! The Uranium pearl is not far behind. While the reactions are very strong, they are also very controllable. It is a strong arc, not a violent squirt.
The above results are from my experiences. That being said, it is not uncommon to get a as many different answers to this sort of question as you do people answering it.
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Jon (in Ohio)
CHROME WON'T GET YOU HOME!
F.O.S. Proud Saw user...see profile.
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quote:
Zues, this drilling works best with shorter pins, i.e. 1-2". Maybe you've used this layout with longer pins, which is why you haven't had much success..? =:^D
I've had maybe 3-4 different balls drilled this was short and longer PINs it just doesn't work for me....
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quote:
The above results are from my experiences. That being said, it is not uncommon to get a as many different answers to this sort of question as you do people answering it.
Like you said, it works good for you. But works good for you doesn't always work good for me. And I'm sure there's stuff I have that wouldn't do a thing for you. It's all your personal preferance. So I guess the best thing to do is consult your driller and talk over what works best for your style...
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Maybe I should just drill it aggressively, that way I'm not worried about it going to far or not hooking, and I can always adjust the coverstock accordingly to the condition.
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"Trying is the first step towards failure" - Homer Simpson
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I am going to have to agree with Zeusjr on the Label layout I also have tried the Label layout on a few saws, short pins, long pins, and everything in between pin distance, and the only Lane1 that I have had good luck with the label layout is the XXL with about a 3-3 1/2" pin the label layout just does not work for me.
had two HDBs,a Bcb, and a few others layed out label and they just would not move for me.
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Don Smith
F.O.S. To The Bone
Cobalt (X1),Tsunami (X1`),Pearl Uranium,XXXL
Buzzsaw C/Carbide,XXL
thats just what I carry
Cobalt Bomb (NIB),BCB(X2-1 NIB),
Original SD(X2,NIB),
Golden Nugget,
Pearl Cherry Bomb (X3-1NIB 1 is 16Lb)
SCB,
H2O,
Pink Raspberry (X1-16Lb)
Black raspberry(X1-16Lb)
And Always Looking For More
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Ok, I've narrowed the layout between: 5 X 3, 5 X 4 or 4.5" X 3.5".
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"Trying is the first step towards failure" - Homer Simpson