Post by: JessN16 on October 15, 2008, 05:43:14 PM
I swear I've never seen a ball so allergic to oil as this one. Closest thing I can think of is a Track Solution Power Plus EX, but that's a ball specifically made for drier lanes.
This week at league, I managed to book the following set: 207-148-228.
Game one was with a Gold Nugget. The front nine were clean; the 10th frame, I leave a 3-4-7 and didn't convert it. Our lanes tend to transition badly right at the end of game 1 anyway (stuff starts jumping high), so I should have seen it coming.
I fight it for the first five frames of the second game and end up with three spares and two splits. So I switched out to the Evo, drilled label and in box condition.
The rest of that game -- which ended with me getting 6 on my fill ball to lose team total points by 1 -- saw me getting a great look with the Evo unless I pulled it inside by a half-board, and then I'd hit the 3-pin right in the face.
The last game, I moved outside, found something, and basically couldn't miss on my way to 228. I had one smash-10, one 4-pin and one split in that game (my old favorite 3-4-6-7-9-10, of which I picked up everything by the 4 and 9).
I'm scared to tweak the surface on it, because when it works, it really, really works. It fills a hole, but that hole is very small and narrow. If the lanes aren't absolutely perfect, I've done nothing but bring along a boat anchor.
This is one reason why I really HATE the old Columbia covers, and why it took so long for me to take a chance on a 900G-poured Lane #1. I finally bought a Supernova XP, and that ball is both super-strong and predictable, so hopefully when 900Global took over the old Columbia plant, they tweaked the coverstocks.
I'm really hesitant to consider changes to the ball but will listen if you guys would like to pitch in a few suggestions. What I'd really like to find is a ball that will handle lighter volumes than the core of my Lane #1 arsenal (Gold Nugget/Tsunami H20/Enriched Uranium/Supernova XP) without being so da*n oil-allergic if I happen to tug it. I've got a Dirty Bomb drilled for that purpose but I don't seem to match up that great with the bomb core.
Jess
Post by: T-GOD on October 16, 2008, 09:18:48 AM
I would go with a BuzzBOMB drilled semi rico, pin halfway up the center line. The balls you currently have are not strong enough to play the oil, so now you're struggling to play the dry. Not the right way to play this condition, imo. =:^D
Post by: LuckyLefty on October 16, 2008, 09:22:15 AM
Couldn't agree more....
BillyRay gave me a similar recommendation for a severe wet dry(I went with the heavy rolling Shock) from Columbia and it really smoothed that baby out and let me get in the sort of oil and loop smoothly!
REgards,
Luckylefty
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Open the door...see what's possible...and just walk right on through...that's how easy success feels..
Post by: Gazoo on October 16, 2008, 09:39:43 AM
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"I don't want to be remembered, I want to be forgotten"
Post by: novawagonmaster on October 16, 2008, 10:32:28 AM
Sounds like you are playing a typical wet/dry wall...a fluffers's dream
I have been having success with playing deeper on this condition with several balls. The thing they all have in common is that they are all strong balls, drilled pin down (a couple under ring, a couple rico). I have been able to use the Break, the S-75, and the Break Pearl. If you want to stay with Lane #1, try something along the lines of a Buzzbomb or Black Cherry Bomb.
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Jon (in Ohio)
aka: Rico Swervé~
Post by: JessN16 on October 16, 2008, 12:18:29 PM
quote:
Jess, sounds like you're looking for a ball to work on an over/under condition, with dry outsides. Instead of playing the dry with a weaker ball, you should be playing the oil with a stronger ball. A rico drilling should be a good layout on this condition also.
I would go with a BuzzBOMB drilled semi rico, pin halfway up the center line. The balls you currently have are not strong enough to play the oil, so now you're struggling to play the dry. Not the right way to play this condition, imo. =:^D
I've got a couple of Rico balls in my arsenal, but not Lane #1. I have a Storm Thunderstruck Solid at 600 plus very light polish and a Thunderstruck Pearl in box condition. The Solid tends to work very well up to the same point in the first game (9th-10th frame), and then I start to lose the look when carrydown sets in. Typically what happens there is that I start leaving ringing 10s, and then it transitions to weak 10s. If I move my breakpoint outside, I have a problem getting the ball to the breakpoint -- our overall oil volume is medium- to medium-light and we don't have a very high crown in the middle of the lane.
I can switch to the Pearl at that point and play into the middle of the third game when the same thing begins to happen. Shooting the 10 isn't necessarily my strong suit so if I'm shooting a line that forces me to make eight or nine of them in a night, it's going to have the same effect as leaving three or four splits.
The other issue here is that my A-game isn't necessarily to play inside in the oil. I'm more comfortable playing outside. I don't really fluff the ball, either -- if I need to ball to project more, I'm good at being able to adjust tilt and rotation to create length. I realize this is my responsibility to fix (being more versatile) but practice time in my line of work is pretty limited.
Jess
Post by: JessN16 on October 16, 2008, 12:21:02 PM
quote:
Still tying to figure out what this has to due with Superflex, if not the best, then the 2nd best resin ever produced.
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"I don't want to be remembered, I want to be forgotten"
It matched up well for a lot of people but not necessarily for me. I'm not going to do what a lot of people do and go around yelling "Superflex SUCKS" -- clearly, it doesn't suck, but I've had a really hard time over the years getting a consistent read from balls wearing it.
Jess
Post by: LuckyLefty on October 16, 2008, 02:02:48 PM
Playing inside with weaker drills...(of course under bridge for someone with your mid length pap is NOT that weak).
To play inside and use those weak drillings one often needs a higher diff to get the ball to hit! The Thunderstruck being a greate medium everything ball.
I think T-God's idea of going with the stronger BuzzBomb in relation to your Thunderstruck solid might give you that little extra pop at the back one needs from inside to carry the corners.
That MAN is SMART about bowling...that T-God!
REgards,
Luckylefty
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Open the door...see what's possible...and just walk right on through...that's how easy success feels..
Post by: Maine Man on October 16, 2008, 02:17:37 PM
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MainePBA
"I'd rather be a conservative nut job than a liberal with no nuts and no job."
Post by: JessN16 on October 16, 2008, 02:23:20 PM
I have a tendency to drop my shoulder too much when playing inside and send the ball too far out, and it hits too weakly. I tend to leave a lot of 10s and 2-4-5s when playing there.
Jess
Post by: JessN16 on October 16, 2008, 02:26:15 PM
quote:
Jess, since you say that your game does not match up to the Bomb cores, then I would stay away from the Buzzbomb or Buzzbomb/R. I think you are just going to find more headaches than solutions. Sounds like you want a semi-mild solid reactive ball, saying you want it for a little lighter pattern, but something that can still handle a little oil volume. Stay away from pearls, they will be too sensitive to the transition, I would go with either a MoRich Soild LevRg or a Brunswick Copperhead.
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MainePBA
"I'd rather be a conservative nut job than a liberal with no nuts and no job."
I was typing my post as you were writing yours. There have been quite a few guys doing well with the solid MoRich balls.
I've got an extensive arsenal at the moment but I won't be able to afford another ball for a few months. I do have a Lane #1 Hybrid Dirty Bomb that's just kind of sitting around without a role to play. It's drilled pin-over-bridge and the CG in what the drill sheet calls "thumb leverage" position and I might experiment with it a little. It's the best of the Bomb cores I've used but that's still not saying a lot.
Jess
Post by: oregonsawhead on October 16, 2008, 02:30:20 PM
Post by: Doug Sterner on October 17, 2008, 07:16:08 PM
I have had all kinds of issues with label drilled Lane 1 balls. Pearl Uranium, Solid Uranium, Pro Purple, Teal THS, G Force Solid and SuperNova.
My experience has been the same as yours...when they work they are just flat out incredible but when they don't, you might as well be throwing a white dot.
Rather than redrilling the ball go ahead and make a SMALL tweak to the cover. My suggestion would be to just knock a little bit of shine off the ball (like with a 2000 or 4000 grit Abralon pad). If that doesn't work you can go 1000 grit and then a light polish or something similar.
I feel your pain my man. Before I started drilling I used to use NOTHING but label drillings...no weightholes to worry about and a consistent ball reaction that could normally be used on a variety of conditions. What I ahve found with the Lane 1 balls however is that label drilled Buzzsaws tend to be VERY finicky and condition specific.
Try the cover and see what happens.....
--------------------
Doug Sterner
Doug's Pro Shop
Owego, NY
http://dougsproshop@aol.com
www.dougsproshop.net
Lane 1 Buzzsaw...The Official Power Tool Of Bowling
Post by: JessN16 on October 17, 2008, 08:34:34 PM
quote:
Well my friend you are experiencing the same thing I have seen with several Lane 1 balls. I have had the issue with both pearls and solids, columbia covers and brunswick covers....the only thing in common was the drill pattern...and it was the same drill as you have described.
I have had all kinds of issues with label drilled Lane 1 balls. Pearl Uranium, Solid Uranium, Pro Purple, Teal THS, G Force Solid and SuperNova.
My experience has been the same as yours...when they work they are just flat out incredible but when they don't, you might as well be throwing a white dot.
Rather than redrilling the ball go ahead and make a SMALL tweak to the cover. My suggestion would be to just knock a little bit of shine off the ball (like with a 2000 or 4000 grit Abralon pad). If that doesn't work you can go 1000 grit and then a light polish or something similar.
I feel your pain my man. Before I started drilling I used to use NOTHING but label drillings...no weightholes to worry about and a consistent ball reaction that could normally be used on a variety of conditions. What I ahve found with the Lane 1 balls however is that label drilled Buzzsaws tend to be VERY finicky and condition specific.
Try the cover and see what happens.....
--------------------
Doug Sterner
Doug's Pro Shop
Owego, NY
http://dougsproshop@aol.com
www.dougsproshop.net
Lane 1 Buzzsaw...The Official Power Tool Of Bowling
Up until now, I have the opposite problem you had. My Tsunami is label and I can use it just about anywhere. Both my EU and Gold Nugget are stable. My XP is predictable, but violently strong in the backend.
When I had a Nugget drilled stacked, it was the most condition-specific, wild piece of crap I'd ever owned. My Dirty Bomb is stacked, and it's unpredictable week to week. Small changes in the lane oil drive it nuts.
My HDB is drilled "thumb leverage," pin over bridge and it's pretty predictable, although I've yet to really get it to work super-well for me.
Hitting the Evo with 4000 Abralon will be my first shot, I think.
Jess
Post by: AK47 on October 17, 2008, 09:27:37 PM
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Saws I'm currently using
Black Cherry Bomb
Pink Raspberry
Blueberry
Silver Diamond
Post by: Dan Belcher on October 17, 2008, 09:33:47 PM
quote:Sounds like practicing this aspect of your game should be the first thing you need to address before working on your equipment. A good ball matchup won't mean much if you can't hit your target consistently.
The league I'm in doesn't have a lot of high-average bowlers in it, but some of the ones that do, and who have a similar game to mine, have done well using MoRich LevRG and NSane LevRG balls, as well as a couple of guys who use a Solid LevRG. But those guys have a lot better control over how far out they project the ball when playing an inside line.
I have a tendency to drop my shoulder too much when playing inside and send the ball too far out, and it hits too weakly. I tend to leave a lot of 10s and 2-4-5s when playing there.
Jess
Post by: JessN16 on October 17, 2008, 10:06:36 PM
quote:
Sounds like practicing this aspect of your game should be the first thing you need to address before working on your equipment. A good ball matchup won't mean much if you can't hit your target consistently.
I wish I had the time to get out there and practice more but my work schedule doesn't allow it, believe me.
Jess
Post by: Strider on October 17, 2008, 11:55:16 PM
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Penn State Proud
Ron Clifton's Bowling Tip Archive (http://"http://www.bowl4fun.com/ron/roncarchive.htm")
Post by: JessN16 on October 18, 2008, 12:02:27 AM
quote:
Is there a lot of games on the ball? My Tsunami is a little oil allergic in general (maybe from the weal drilling), but when is soaks up some oil, it greatly exaggerates the effect. If that's not it, don't be afraid of adding a little more surface. If you don't like it, it's super easy to change back.
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Penn State Proud
Ron Clifton's Bowling Tip Archive (http://"http://www.bowl4fun.com/ron/roncarchive.htm")
The Evo? A below-average amount. I swap back and forth with equipment that I can't really give a terribly accurate estimate. Maybe 30-40?
It was better fresh out of the box than it is now, in terms of dealing with oil. It's got the same reaction in the dry as it did right out of the box but whereas a slight pull into the oil was something I used to be able to get away with, not anymore. A board or less left off my hand means I have no idea what's going to happen at the breakpoint. I've got some recovery right with this ball but not left.
Jess
Post by: LuckyLefty on October 18, 2008, 07:03:43 AM
I was in a center once and Randy Pederson was there and he said...."Label leverage....does anyone drill that anymore?"
However after saying that....I have friends who are up the backers ala Walter Ray with about 25 degrees axis rotation and they put that drill on EVERY ball and look great.
Me with about 65 to 70 degrees axis rotation tend to have to put the cg out and have a weighthole to smooth and stabilize reation. Stacked even works for me with stabilizing weightholes. Otherwise the side roll gets me into very jumpy reactions. The only time I use any of these cg back toward grip center drillings is on a pattern with a ton of friction in the midlanes....or playing way wide up the boards.......say up the 5 board.
Otherwise some sort of stack or kick out tends to give the midlane often needed on patterns today! Especially for playing inside...swing lanes.
REgards,
Luckylefty
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Open the door...see what's possible...and just walk right on through...that's how easy success feels..
Post by: T-GOD on October 18, 2008, 12:50:49 PM
Post by: Dan Belcher on October 18, 2008, 01:03:39 PM
quote:Then that could be a significant problem in getting better. The ball you're throwing means nothing if you can't throw it where you're aiming. During your league, focus not just on trying to score well, but also just on improving your accuracy. Be very honest with yourself on whether or not your last shot was actually a good one. Just because it struck doesn't mean you didn't miss three boards right and caught a litle extra friction to bring it back to the pocket. When you start looking at things this way, it really helps develop better accuracy over time.quote:
Sounds like practicing this aspect of your game should be the first thing you need to address before working on your equipment. A good ball matchup won't mean much if you can't hit your target consistently.
I wish I had the time to get out there and practice more but my work schedule doesn't allow it, believe me.
Jess
Post by: bowlerdawg on October 20, 2008, 12:18:04 PM
i took my EVO up to 4000, and that helped me
Post by: JessN16 on October 20, 2008, 10:20:20 PM
quote:
I hear the term Label and I wonder does that mean....Label leverage ie pin about 4 inches from PAP and cg back towards grip center?
LL,
On a Lane #1 drill sheet, you're basically talking about a pin adjacent to the ring somehow (below, next to it, or in my case, just above it), CG in grip center and the MB marker on the track side of the thumb, in close to it. I've heard some other Lane #1 fans say (and I agree with this) that it's a good match for the Diamond core and its derivatives (WAS, Fusion). The Bomb cores need a different treatment.
I've never had a problem getting any of my other Lane #1 stuff to read it's just the Evo. I'm going to try 4000 Abralon first if I decide to make a surface change.
Jess