Author Topic: Anyone seen any sketchiness from their Chainsaw? (Read 2334 times)

JessN16 · « **on:** May 30, 2009, 04:55:59 PM »

I'm still in the infancy stage with this ball, not enough info to write a full review. After a good first test on some pretty dry lanes that had a fairly flat pattern to start with, I broke it out last week during the second game of a fresh shot. And I'm a little perplexed.

First of all, I need to explain what the oil pattern looked like. Imagine around 33 feet of a standard league Christmas tree taper shot (with light oil outside 7 or so). Now imagine at the 33-foot mark, the pattern ended abruptly straight across -- except for the areas outside the 7 board, which continued to have oil on them down to around 37 or 38. Basically, a mix of THS taper with a reverse block at the end of the pattern. That's what it felt like.

This was scratch league, and three of the bowlers on this pair (not including me) have bowled regionals. One guy has shot a few TQRs before. He and one other guy shot mid-600s. The third guy (the guy bowling against me) went 225, 205 and then something like 130. And he put five or six in the ditch along the way because of the late oil outside.

Well, I went 186, 170, 158 (and won the third game). As the track area dried out, I struggled. Moving in got me into the dry too soon downlane and outside had the aforementioned oil.

I guess I shouldn't be expecting a miracle here, but I had a problem with the Chainsaw being too much in the drier parts of the lane, and offering no recovery outside. As the lanes broke down, I was eventually able to burn a spot for myself on the left lane, but on the right I had to pull a more aggressive ball out (Tsunami H20) and play in the oil somewhat. Nothing really worked on the right lane.

I guess what I was expecting more from the Chainsaw was the ability to mute the dry a little better. I wasn't expecting it to make that much of a definitive move off the spot. The biggest issue right now is that it's not as consistent as I would like.

Ball specs: 4.5-inch pin drilled about 1.25 inches straight over the ring, CG is negative side of the centerline in line from thumb to middle finger, starting top weight was about 3.5 oz. Surface is box. Works out to around a 4.5 x 5 drill.

Jess

dougb · « **Reply #1 on:** May 31, 2009, 07:53:41 AM »

I've watched my league partner struggle with his Chainsaw in the exact same way since he bought it three weeks ago. Either too much reaction on the dry or not enough outside it.

This is a guy who knocks 'em dead with his Bullet on the dry. Our Pro Shop guy (another Lane #1 fan) said if you like the Bullet, you'll love the Chainsaw--but that's not the case so far.

Not sure how the ball is drilled. This guy is a high speed cranker.

Doug Sterner · « **Reply #2 on:** May 31, 2009, 02:31:26 PM »

My experience with my Chainsaw was hit and miss until I made some coverstock changes.

Out of the box my ball was very hit or miss. I drilled the ball pin under ring with cg out (at the request of my sales rep) and a very large hole in the thumb positive quadrant. Too early for true dry lanes but too much length and no recovery on our house pattern.

So I started messing with the coverstock. I finally found a happy medium with a 1000 Abralon and a very light polish. Then teh ball worked great.

One tidbit....keep in mind this is the ONLY Lane 1 ball to use one of the milder covers from 900 Global. I am thinking you need to use a bit stronger drill pattern on this ball and then tweak the coverstock to get it dialed in.

--------------------
Doug Sterner
Doug's Pro Shop
Owego, NY
http://dougsproshop@aol.com
www.dougsproshop.net
Lane 1 Buzzsaw...The Official Power Tool Of Bowling
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RevZiLLa · « **Reply #3 on:** May 31, 2009, 06:05:25 PM »

I find the beauty of the ChainSaw is that you don't have to try hard to make it shine. Back off on the release and move right. Just stroke it out to between 5 and 10 about 1/2 way down the lane on a burned house shot and you have area and carry effortlessly. On my house shot I stand with my left toe on 32 or so to do this.

When all the fluffers are killing you in the 3rd game, just pull out your ChainSaw and use a straight wrist with the back of your hand at 4:30 or so and step on their throats!

If things get so dry you have to move farther left, start adding a bit of cup to the release and swing it some.

on edit: Just to be clear, this ball is NOT for a fresh shot. It is a tool to fill out your arsenal.
--------------------
RevZ=======================

\I/

Edited on 5/31/2009 6:07 PM

JessN16 · « **Reply #4 on:** May 31, 2009, 06:55:36 PM »

quote:
I find the beauty of the ChainSaw is that you don't have to try hard to make it shine. Back off on the release and move right. Just stroke it out to between 5 and 10 about 1/2 way down the lane on a burned house shot and you have area and carry effortlessly. On my house shot I stand with my left toe on 32 or so to do this.

When all the fluffers are killing you in the 3rd game, just pull out your ChainSaw and use a straight wrist with the back of your hand at 4:30 or so and step on their throats!

If things get so dry you have to move farther left, start adding a bit of cup to the release and swing it some.

on edit: Just to be clear, this ball is NOT for a fresh shot. It is a tool to fill out your arsenal.
--------------------
RevZ=======================
\I/

Edited on 5/31/2009 6:07 PM

RevZ,

Judging from your username, I probably don't have as much hand as you do. (g)

I tried the very thing you suggested and as little as one board somewhere around the oil line made the difference between flush and near-disaster.

I left two buckets (2-4-5-8) my entire 36-week fall league this year. I left three in one game with the Chainsaw.

I'm thinking either 1000 or 2000 with no polish will be my first option.

Jess

REvans284 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 31, 2009, 09:36:36 PM »

Reguardless of the manufacturer, any time you get a high RG ball, with a low diff. and a reactive cover which makes the ball skid/flippy. It's going to be very sharp once it hits any friction, and hate any carry down it encounters...

I had 3 columbia 300 Scout/R's that were all drilled different, a friend had 2 MoRich Mojavi's, and any other ball in the like (whether its an ebonite bash or tornado, AMF orbit, brunswick power groove, storm hit, etc.) all did the same thing you are encountering. I figured out after a while that those balls are going to give you over/under. Especially on a short pattern like that where it wants to check up early or when you find the oil it just wants to set there and wont even sneeze at the pocket.

Best thing I suggest to over come this situation is to grab a plastic ball and play firm and direct just inside of the OOB. And after finding a little success on situations like this with a true plastic, the XXXL would be perfect for that situation and I've considered getting one just for that. If theres enough friction to make it face, it will carry.

Later,

REvans284

Edited on 5/31/2009 9:37 PM

JessN16 · « **Reply #6 on:** May 31, 2009, 09:45:41 PM »

quote:
Reguardless of the manufacturer, any time you get a high RG ball, with a low diff. and a reactive cover which makes the ball skid/flippy. It's going to be very sharp once it hits any friction, and hate any carry down it encounters...

I had 3 columbia 300 Scout/R's that were all drilled different, a friend had 2 MoRich Mojavi's, and any other ball in the like (whether its an ebonite bash or tornado, AMF orbit, brunswick power groove, storm hit, etc.) all did the same thing you are encountering. I figured out after a while that those balls are going to give you over/under. Especially on a short pattern like that where it wants to check up early or when you find the oil it just wants to set there and wont even sneeze at the pocket.

Best thing I suggest to over come this situation is to grab a plastic ball and play firm and direct just inside of the OOB. And after finding a little success on situations like this with a true plastic, the XXXL would be perfect for that situation and I've considered getting one just for that. If theres enough friction to make it face, it will carry.

Later,

REvans284

Edited on 5/31/2009 9:37 PM

I've got a XXXL and considered doing just what you suggested. I opted out of that plan in the end because I was afraid I wasn't going to be able to consistently keep it inside the OOB. This is a draft scratch league, someone thought enough of me to draft me and I was winning my point in the third game, so I just decided to play defense. If I had it to go back and do over again, I probably would have done it differently.

Jess

RevZiLLa · « **Reply #7 on:** May 31, 2009, 10:47:51 PM »

quote:
quote:
I find the beauty of the ChainSaw is that you don't have to try hard to make it shine. Back off on the release and move right. Just stroke it out to between 5 and 10 about 1/2 way down the lane on a burned house shot and you have area and carry effortlessly. On my house shot I stand with my left toe on 32 or so to do this.

When all the fluffers are killing you in the 3rd game, just pull out your ChainSaw and use a straight wrist with the back of your hand at 4:30 or so and step on their throats!

If things get so dry you have to move farther left, start adding a bit of cup to the release and swing it some.

on edit: Just to be clear, this ball is NOT for a fresh shot. It is a tool to fill out your arsenal.
--------------------
RevZ=======================
\I/

Edited on 5/31/2009 6:07 PM

RevZ,

Judging from your username, I probably don't have as much hand as you do. (g)

I tried the very thing you suggested and as little as one board somewhere around the oil line made the difference between flush and near-disaster.

I left two buckets (2-4-5-8) my entire 36-week fall league this year. I left three in one game with the Chainsaw.

I'm thinking either 1000 or 2000 with no polish will be my first option.

Jess

I wish I had the revs I did back when I took that name...
Take it 5 boards right of the oil line and see what happens. I'm serious when I say toss it out to 5. The THS where I bowl is heavy in the middle from 10 to 10 and then tapered down from 10 to 5. In the 3rd game, the ghost of that bit of oil on 5 is all you need to create some area and a nice roll.

As for RG on the ChainSaw...it is not a high RG ball(RG 2.53 Diff .013). It reacts nothing like a RotoGrip Neptune (RG 2.60 Diff .020). The Neptune is long and very angular while the ChainSaw is moderately long and very smooth and arcy. The low diff means keep it away from the oil line.
--------------------
RevZ=======================

\I/

Artimust · « **Reply #8 on:** June 01, 2009, 12:13:26 AM »

It's been ip and down with my Chainsaw. Sometimes the ball just crushes the pins and send them flying. Other times I would get more splits than normal, sometimes 3 or 4 in the same game.

goose194 · « **Reply #9 on:** June 01, 2009, 08:19:51 AM »

My Chainsaw was very jumpy when I first got it and I thought about selling it. I stuck with it and after the track got worn onto the ball a little it really smoothed it out. Now it is one of my favorite balls.

bowlerdawg · « **Reply #10 on:** June 01, 2009, 10:06:56 AM »

me thinks it's better for a true dry condition, rather than a carry down / broken down house shot.

i have experienced some sketchiness on mine as well, but mine came from improper hand positions at release

98% of the time this ball is money for me, if i am doing what i am supposed to be doing with it

very predictable, smooth, and consistent
but if i get soft w/ speed or a real strong release then it is erratic

if i leave a 5 pin or something, them i know it's skidding too long, and not driving, so i switch to something stronger

it's too good a piece ( imo ) not to be in my bag

don't expect miracles from it if it's not being used for it's intended strong suit ( jmo )
--------------------
I'm your huckleberry

ImBackInTheGame · « **Reply #11 on:** June 01, 2009, 11:11:44 AM »

My chainsaw (which is the very same ball Doug Sterner is talking about, thanks again Doug) is great. It's perfect for the house I bowl at (wood lanes that dry out really fast). I've only thrown two sets with it, one in league (656, personal best) and one in practice where score wasn't what I was thinking about. That practice session was on bone dry, I mean BONE DRY. I could hear it kind of "sqeaking" and it rolled down the lane like rubbing your finger on freshly cleaned glass. I just worked on my footwork and release so scores were crap.

The night I used it in league, it was on a fresh shot, 3 person mixed league so only 3 players using the right side of the lane. I played 10-5 all night and it was great. If I let it get away from me a little, it would always come back, if I tugged it inside, it would hold. Its just a great ball for my game and lane conditions.
--------------------
Arsenal:
Roto-Grip Cell Pearl (4000 abralon)
Lane #1 Chainsaw (2000 + Secret Sauce)
Lane #1 XXXL Starburst

F.O.S. Member

JessN16 · « **Reply #12 on:** June 02, 2009, 09:47:10 PM »

Mini-update...

Tried it again tonight and things were a lot better. No changes yet to surface. I bowled the first 25 frames with a Roto Grip Mystic and probably had some adjustability left with that ball, but decided to go to the Chainsaw anyway and finish out. Went X 9/ X X X9/ to close (two 10-pins) with a lot better hold. Pattern felt a little easier but there was still a fairly decent OOB outside 5. The two 10-pins came from two shots that I bellied just a little bit. Recovery right doesn't seem to be this ball's strong suit. But I did get away with a couple of shots that were pulled, and I'd rather have hold than recovery.

Jess

Buzzhead · « **Reply #13 on:** June 03, 2009, 03:58:04 PM »

beans told me to drill mine stronger and work with it if needed. I did and I love it when I use it. I do find I have to play further out than I am used to though.
--------------------
FAILURE IS FEEDBACK. AND FEEDBACK IS THE BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS THAT GOT DIGESTED!

Ten pin?

?? Where?? I throw a BUZZSAW there is NUTTIN left on the deck...

Proud MEMBER of the FOS!!
Member of the FOS, if there happens to be a 9 pin standing just toss a saw and cut it down~~!

Author Topic: Anyone seen any sketchiness from their Chainsaw? (Read 2334 times)

JessN16

Anyone seen any sketchiness from their Chainsaw?

dougb

Re: Anyone seen any sketchiness from their Chainsaw?

Doug Sterner

Re: Anyone seen any sketchiness from their Chainsaw?

RevZiLLa

Re: Anyone seen any sketchiness from their Chainsaw?

JessN16

Re: Anyone seen any sketchiness from their Chainsaw?

REvans284

Re: Anyone seen any sketchiness from their Chainsaw?

JessN16

Re: Anyone seen any sketchiness from their Chainsaw?

RevZiLLa

Re: Anyone seen any sketchiness from their Chainsaw?

Artimust

Re: Anyone seen any sketchiness from their Chainsaw?

goose194

Re: Anyone seen any sketchiness from their Chainsaw?

bowlerdawg

Re: Anyone seen any sketchiness from their Chainsaw?

ImBackInTheGame

Re: Anyone seen any sketchiness from their Chainsaw?

JessN16

Re: Anyone seen any sketchiness from their Chainsaw?

Buzzhead

Re: Anyone seen any sketchiness from their Chainsaw?