BallReviews
Equipment Boards => Lane #1 => Topic started by: Steven on October 22, 2003, 09:45:22 PM
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Well, I picked up my first real Lane#1 ball yesterday -- the new Cranberry. I do have a XXXL, but it's plastic and too condition specific to make any sweeping conclusions.
Before I give my first thoughts, I want to emphasize that I'm not a one company lunatic -- been there, done that and I've learned my lesson. My league arsenal consists of Storm, Track, Ebonite, and Brunswick. My tournament stash is made up mostly of Columbia and Ebonite. When I have a need for ball with a specific reaction, I do research and keep an open mind.
Having said all this, I only have a few practice games on the Cranberry, so I'll keep my comments brief until I have more experience with the ball. In essence I found the following BTM magazine comments to be accurate:
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Strengths: PK18 coverstock helps ball get down the lane with ease and make a strong turn towards the pocket. This ball provides a classic resin reaction when it encounters friction.
My first two games with the Cranberry were on a freshly oiled THS -- heavy from 8 to 8 and dry on the outsides. What I liked about the Cranberry is that I could go straight up the 5 on this condition without a severe over/under reaction. When the ball encountered friction, the transition was smoother than 'normal' resin equipment. As a non-buzzhead, it was a little strange to experience and will take some time to get used to.
quote:
Weakness: Large volumes of oil in front part of lane causes ball to skid too far before making its turn. Extremely dry backends could also cause a little bit of trouble.
I found this out on the first ball I threw. Not knowing how the Cranberry would react, I stated out 15 to 12 as I would with my X-Factor Deuce on this condition, and the Cranberry stayed dead straight through the oil and had almost no reaction at all. The NIB finish on the Cranberry needs some dry to hit the right breakpoint.
Interestingly, when I threw the Cranberry 6 hours later after our second shift league, the extremely dry backends resulted in too severe of a breakpoint. I believe this is a result of the NIB finish which I might end up taking down.
Overall, I think the ball will have a place and I'll throw extensively this weekend to get a better feel. I'll provide more input after that.
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Steven, what layout did you go with..? Did you notice any difference in the hit/sound or the carry when you hit the pocket..? =:^D
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T-GOD: The ball has a 1.75" pin. I went with the pattern my driller insisted on going with. It's a 'CG out' pattern -- The pin is on the vertical grip line directly below the fingers. The CG is down and 1.25" to the right of the pin, which puts it under the ring finger. No weight hole was required. I did talk to my driller about your recommendations, and he didn't have a problem with 2:30-3:00 type drill. However, he hit me with one of those "trust me" scenarios, so I agreed. He's drilled in excess of 40 balls for me, and he wanted me to try something new.
I threw about 15 games with Cranberry over the weekend, and I'm still searching for a condition on which this ball will consistently excel. The primary problem I'm experiencing is that the NIB cover seems to hate oil. If I make a mistake and throw the Cranberry inside the oil line, it just keeps skidding. At best, the ball will turn past the ideal breakpoint resulting in a guaranteed 10 pin. On the other hand if I make a conscious effort to slow my speed down and start the ball more in the dry, it tends to overreact. I found myself having to be almost perfect to strike, which isn't real confidence inspiring.
Thinking the problem might be me, I asked a few higher rev players I respect to give the Cranberry a try. Both experienced the same problems I was seeing, and consistently returned from their shots scratching their heads.
So at this point I'm fairly certain it's not me, and the drill pattern doesn't seem to be the issue because the roll itself looks good. Again, the problem seems to be that with any appreciable oil it simply doesn't want grab.
Ironically after a few games of this, I pulled out my Ebonite V2 Dry, and experienced almost the exact same reaction. Given the lane conditions, I expected this of the V2 Dry, but certainly not the Cranberry.
I'm beginning to believe the NIB surface does not produce enough friction. When I get home tonight, I'm going to take the cover down on my spinner with an 800 grit grey scothbrite pad, and then refinish with Ebonite Matte Finish polish. Hopefully, this will give me an earlier breakpoint and make the ball more usable on medium conditions.
If you have any other thoughts, I'd like to hear them.
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With the pin on the vertical grip line and the CG out, what are the measurements, i.e. ? x ?.
I would just hit the ball with scotchbrite, then use it. Or take it down to 600 grit and use it like that. You will see a huge difference. =:^D
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I've taken mine down to 600, what a difference! It's now pretty strong even on heavier conditions.
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golfnutFL: How did your Cranberry react in NIB condition?
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Steven, because you have a high track, putting the pin on your centerline, could make it a 6 x 5 layout or even a 5 1/2 x 4 1/2. To me, that layout would skate in the oil and give you more over/under. You will definitely need some surface on the ball, with that layout, if you're bowling on oilier conditions. =:^D
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Steven, as T-God says, it looks like you have the Cranberry drilled for use on medium-dry lanes, not medium-oily lanes. Unless you have a ton of revs, I can't see placing the pin that far from PAP if you wanted a good all-around medium oil ball.
I'd try knocking the factory finish off it first, and forget the polish. If it makes a difference, you know you're headed in the right direction.
Best wishes.
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seadrive
Cogito ergo bowl
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T-GOD/seadrive: Thanks for responses. With my current PAP, the pattern is essentially a 5.5 x 4.5. I understand that the 5.5" pin takes it to the limit for my style, but I've had some success with that PIN-PAP distance on other equipment. I have an older Track Assassin, and two new Columbia WOW's (Regular and Pearl) with 5.5 x 3.5 patterns, and the balls are monsters within their intended conditions. In fairness, these balls are 4" pin-outs, and the pins are placed above the bridge, so that certainly accounts for some difference.
Anyway, I haven't taken the cover down yet because I'm subbing tonight in a house that's drier than what I normally see. I'll try it there, and if that fails, go with a 600-800 grit surface this coming weekend. If these efforts don't work, I'll consider plugging and going with a shorter PIN-PAP layout. Thanks again.
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Steven, also remember that the Lane 1 diamond core doesn't migrate to a preferred spin axis, or takes very long to do it. So, if you put the core/pin at 5 1/2" from your PAP, it will stay there all the way down the lane.
Other stuff will migrate as it goes down the lane. So, a ball that's drilled with a 5 1/2" pin to PAP, may enter the pins a 2" from your PAP. A ball drilled with a pin leverage, will end with the pin on your PAP, and not hook very much. This is why a ball drilled 5 1/2" from your PAP will hook alot using other companies stuff, but balls drilled leverage may not.
Lane 1 stuff will give you a true read of what the layout is supposed to do. =:^D
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T-GOD: Your last reply seems to explain what I'm experiencing. We'll see what happens this week. I'll let you know.
Thanks again.
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Cranberry update: After throwing the ball in three different houses with different THS characteristics, I'm convinced I have the wrong drill pattern on the ball. The 5.5" PIN-PAP results in too much length before breakpoint, even on conditions with flying backends. If I execute perfectly on the right condition (speed/release/target/angle), the Cranberry is impressive. However, I'm not perfect on every shot and I need the ball to be more forgiving, so I'm going with a redrill.
I want to maintain the integrity of the core as much as possible, so I'm leaving the thumb in place and rotating the fingers to the left to get a PIN-PAP of 4-4.5". This way, only the existing fingers will have to be plugged, and no plugs should hit the track.
Hopefully this should help. I have a feeling this ball is still going to produce more over/under that I would like to see, but one step at a time.
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Steven,
NIB condition my Cranberry went too long before making a turn to the pocket, I bowl on pretty oily conditions. Dulled to 600 it is a VERY strong continous arc to the pocket. Good Luck.
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I am not that knowledgeable on drilling. If you move the fingers, are the pitches in the thumb affected?
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I am the SGT Schultz of bowling.
"I know nothing!"
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I probably didn't describe clearly what I'm doing. I'm having the existing finger holes plugged, and new holes drilled counter clockwise (to the left). This will move the pin from the vertical grip line to under (or slightly right of) the ring finger.
Grip span will remain the same. A new thumb slug will be required to get the proper thumb pitches in relation to the new finger hole locations.
My experience has been that a total plug and redrill usually does not kill a ball. However, I want to give the Cranberry as fair an evaluation as possible, so I'm trying to minimize the effects of a redrill.
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Steven, thanks. Thumb slug explains it. Since I dont use them, I hadnt considered that.
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I am the SGT Schultz of bowling.
"I know nothing!"
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PolarMike,
Because your local guy is ripping you off!!!!! Contact Doug Sterner or Drillwizard and you will get Lane #1 for LESS than your local guy will sell you top of the line from ANY other company. And either will do a great job drilling it for you too. Doug drilled a Black Cherry Bomb for me with a thumb slug and 2 finger grips and shipped it to me in Florida for $216!!!!!!!!!!!!
That's $50 cheaper than I could have gotten the same ball locally. It is also $7 CHEAPER than I could buy a Raging Inferno, Phenom, Throttle etc. etc. from my local guy. It's a tired argument and NOT true, if you go the proper source you will pay no more for the Lane #1 of your choice than any other ball.
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$179 for the TPC player is a great price. Locally I would pay $223 out the door drilled with slug and grips; $189.99 plus $12 for slug, $10 for grips plus 6% Florida sales tax. Does your price include slug/grips? If so, great price! I don't know why your local guy would be charging so much more for Lane #1 when he's selling very reasonably for Ebonite stuff.
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I havent payed more than $200 out the door for either of my buzzsaws (Cherry Bomb and Super Carbide Bomb) thats with drilling, thumb insert, and finger inserts. That is comparable to what it would cost to purchase other companies top of the line balls and get them drilled isnt it (just asking since I havent priced other stuff)
Jason
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Steven, I wouldn't go that route. The 4 x 4 1/2 you end with, including a 1:00 pin, will probably also give you over/under.
You do not/barely hit the diamond core when drilling a Buzzsaw, so the effects of plugging are minimal at best. Do the full plug and go with a 4 1/4 x 3 3/8 or thereabouts.
Did you try changing the surface..?
Or, you can try the 2:30-3:00 layout, but that will still need a full plug. =:^D
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Very Comparable
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T-GOD: I did take the cover down slightly with an 800 grit grey pad. It did tend to break a little earlier, but not enough to make a big difference.
Another problem I'm facing is more my own style rather than the ball. I have a higher track, and with the pin below the bridge on the center vertical grip, I sometimes clip the edge of the thumb hole. It doesn't happen every shot, but enough where I'm conscious of it, and it's something I'd rather not have to think about.
So I need get the pin closer to my PAP. I wish I had insisted on on the 2:30-3:00 pin. However, with a full plug, I'm concerned that the thumb plug might end up in the track with that drill. I'll verify and also check out the 4 1/4 x 3 3/8. Thanks.
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Steven, don't worry about the plug being in your track, unless the pro shop doesn't do good work. =:^D
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T-GOD: OK. I just talked to my proshop guy, and we'll go with the full plug and a 2:30 redrill. Thanks for your input.
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Steven, place the pin around 3 1/2-4" from your PAP. Try the ball out, then adjust the side weight as needed with an extra hole, either adding some with a hole on your track side, or taking away some on the PAP side. =:^D