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Author Topic: Help with shark pattern on WOOD  (Read 2503 times)

AK47

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Help with shark pattern on WOOD
« on: June 27, 2009, 05:02:04 AM »
Just wondering if anyone has any experience of bowling the shark pattern ON WOOD (please no synthetic or overlaid lanes, just wood) 1)What surface on your ball worked best for you. 2) what line worked for you (stroker or cranker) 3) how should i expect the oil to break down through 4 games.... I can throw with different releases with above avg revs.... I have a Buzzbomb, BCB, Dynamo, Super Carbide bomb(2"pin under ring label), Army Green Carbide Bomb, Agent Orange(3" pin beside ring stacked), Supernova(4"pin beside ring stacked), Black and Pink Raspberry.... The rest are drilled Pin above ring Stacked.... I would prefer to throw the PINK or ARMY GREEN.... thanks for any advice you may have....
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AK47

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Re: Help with shark pattern on WOOD
« Reply #1 on: June 27, 2009, 02:30:30 PM »
thanks for the advice todder... looking at your profile seems like you are really good at picking up spares to avg 195-220 on sport shots.... do you throw straight at them or trust a lil hook? for ex. how would you pickup the 7 pin (where do you stand and throw from and what arrow) and for the 10 pin?
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tommymo

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Re: Help with shark pattern on WOOD
« Reply #2 on: June 28, 2009, 11:26:21 AM »
I had my best look on the shark with wood lanes near the gutter.  I was able to use a 2nd Demension, Black Widow Solid and Enriched Uranium with decent success.  I tried in side with different balls, layouts and surface prep but I liked my 30*x4.5"x55* 2D hit by hand with 2000 grit abralon. My 4x3 EU 1000 abralon with touch of polish and a 55*x 2.5"x35* BWS at 1000 abralon by spinner then 4k abralon over by hand.  I played very close to the gutter looking about 5 at the arrows and 2-3 at the break.  I had to be deliberate with my speed and hand, I had to make sure I didn't try to help the ball at all or it would be inconsitiant at the break.  I did use the EU inside but I couldn't keep myself on the shot and would leak it out and the ball obviously wouldn't recover in time.
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AK47

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Re: Help with shark pattern on WOOD
« Reply #3 on: June 28, 2009, 05:19:15 PM »
quote:
Yes i have worked very hard on my spare game. I bowl for Lindenwood University and in college spare shooting is extremely important. I shoot all single pin spares with a plastic ball and go straight at them. For a 7 pin i stand on 10 and throw at the third arrow.  For a 10 pin i stand on 35 and throw two boards left of 4th arrow.  Now this took much trial and error before i found the 'spots' to throw at that worked best for me.  So depending on how much you drift and where you release the ball everyone will be different.  But if you want to have more success on the harder patterns i would try practicing some different spare methods.  Now i do usually throw my reactive ball at buckets and double wood and head pin combination spares because that is what i feel most comfortable with.  I do know some people that throw their reactive balls at single pins as well and flatten their hand out..and are pretty good at it.  You should try many things and do what feels best to you. Good luck!

thanks, good info.
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AK47

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Re: Help with shark pattern on WOOD
« Reply #4 on: June 28, 2009, 05:22:52 PM »
quote:
I had my best look on the shark with wood lanes near the gutter.  I was able to use a 2nd Demension, Black Widow Solid and Enriched Uranium with decent success.  I tried in side with different balls, layouts and surface prep but I liked my 30*x4.5"x55* 2D hit by hand with 2000 grit abralon. My 4x3 EU 1000 abralon with touch of polish and a 55*x 2.5"x35* BWS at 1000 abralon by spinner then 4k abralon over by hand.  I played very close to the gutter looking about 5 at the arrows and 2-3 at the break.  I had to be deliberate with my speed and hand, I had to make sure I didn't try to help the ball at all or it would be inconsitiant at the break.  I did use the EU inside but I couldn't keep myself on the shot and would leak it out and the ball obviously wouldn't recover in time.
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Becoming a father isn't difficult, But it's very difficult to be a father.

10/21/05 Kaitlyn Emily and  02/01/07 Meghan Alexis, Daddy's little girls!

R.I.P Kevin Trombley 11/26/05 You were taken too soon!

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I'm assuming you have alot of hand in the ball to play 5 out to 3-2 @ break?  However, during the cheetah pattern on wood most of the oil drifted out to that area, can only wonder with more oil if this is possible for me? My army green has more backend than any of my oilers, so i might give it a try during practice...
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tommymo

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Re: Help with shark pattern on WOOD
« Reply #5 on: June 28, 2009, 05:37:32 PM »
A lot of us were out there.  Many of the top qualifiers were playing the ditch.  I know it doesn't seem possible but that's where we played it.  Some had success inside but they were really slow and kept the ball on a tight line to the pocket.  I spent most of practice inside trying to find something and was struggling horribly.  I finally tried outside and couldn't believe that it hooked back and left a corner pin.  I spent the last 45min. outside trying to find the right balls to work with.  There is more than one way to play these patterns, they're just not the most played.  My biggest thing was surface prep if I used something highly polished the reaction on the backend was erratic. Obviously!!!!
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Becoming a father isn't difficult, But it's very difficult to be a father.

10/21/05 Kaitlyn Emily and  02/01/07 Meghan Alexis, Daddy's little girls!

R.I.P Kevin Trombley 11/26/05 You were taken too soon!

Visionary Test Staff Member 07/08
Frankie May Gryphon
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Ogre Pearl
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Tom M.

AK47

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Re: Help with shark pattern on WOOD
« Reply #6 on: June 28, 2009, 06:20:53 PM »
you're right it's a weird concept to my brain to play 44ft of oil on the 5-3 board..... i'll try it couple of times, but probably try to play up 12 and go from there.  Just shocked that not many have bowled this pattern on wood...
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bowl 2 win

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Re: Help with shark pattern on WOOD
« Reply #7 on: June 28, 2009, 06:35:35 PM »
I've bowled on this pattern on wooden lanes and the best place to start was the gutter. Targeting 5 and using the old surface downlane to kick the ball left. After 2-4 games though, that line starts to carry down and becomes junk. I then moved in to 22-25 and found a decent line there to finish off the block. There is far more hook when bowling the Shark on wood lanes when compared to synthetics.
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AK47

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Re: Help with shark pattern on WOOD
« Reply #8 on: June 28, 2009, 07:00:19 PM »
quote:
There is far more hook when bowling the Shark on wood lanes when compared to synthetics.



That's why i asked for wood advice only... i bowled this past season for the 1st time on wood and also bowl a synthetic house and found there to more hook on wood... but the oil broke down completely different than the synthetic houses that i have bowled... Now with a witness, i will definitely try 5 board on wood, but wouldn't dare at my synthetic house, lol!  thanks!
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bowl 2 win

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Re: Help with shark pattern on WOOD
« Reply #9 on: June 28, 2009, 07:09:55 PM »
No problem! I threw polished stuff all day as well if that helps. Sanded stuff just burnt up and hit flat for most of the people I was watching. Lots of med. to strong pearl balls were being thrown.
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Miles Coplan
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AK47

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Re: Help with shark pattern on WOOD
« Reply #10 on: June 28, 2009, 07:24:23 PM »
quote:
No problem! I threw polished stuff all day as well if that helps. Sanded stuff just burnt up and hit flat for most of the people I was watching. Lots of med. to strong pearl balls were being thrown.
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Miles Coplan
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Just got through sanding my pink raspberry with green scotchbrite pad
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AK47

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Re: Help with shark pattern on WOOD
« Reply #11 on: June 28, 2009, 07:28:19 PM »
also, forgot to ask, i love to release the ball with a cuffed wrist while tilting my index finger somewhere between 10 and 11 o'clock.... should i break the cuff and just come straight up the back of the ball? Or do what i love to do or do you suggest something else?
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bowl 2 win

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Re: Help with shark pattern on WOOD
« Reply #12 on: June 28, 2009, 07:28:56 PM »
Keep it dull, you might be able to use it when the pattern starts to carry down, its always a good idea to keep one or two dull pieces in the bag. Use the practice to to fish around with both polished and dull stuff. And try lines both inside and outside and play the part of the lane you feel will give you the best chance to score. Also, take a look around you, try and find some people that you know are very good bowlers and see how they are playing the lanes. I always do this just to get an idea of what other people are trying to do as well as my game plan.
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Miles Coplan
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bowl 2 win

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Re: Help with shark pattern on WOOD
« Reply #13 on: June 28, 2009, 07:30:51 PM »
Throw the ball how you are comfortable throwing the ball, dont try to change anything and get fancy, it will only slow you down over a long qualifying block. Just go out there and have fun, thats why we all bowl.
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Miles Coplan
PBA Member Since 2008
"Bowl to Win!"
pics of my arsenal:
http://s201.photobucket.com/albums/aa41/bowl-2-win/Fall%20Arsenal/
Miles C
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BowlNEBA.com

AK47

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Re: Help with shark pattern on WOOD
« Reply #14 on: June 28, 2009, 07:41:39 PM »
quote:
Throw the ball how you are comfortable throwing the ball, dont try to change anything and get fancy, it will only slow you down over a long qualifying block. Just go out there and have fun, thats why we all bowl.
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Miles Coplan
PBA Member Since 2008
"Bowl to Win!"
pics of my arsenal:
http://s201.photobucket.com/albums/aa41/bowl-2-win/Fall%20Arsenal/


Good advice, i'll go with what i do best and adjust from there.. Only thing i'm concerned with is that we change lanes after every match, lane 1-4 dry faster, 5-8, needs to be calibrated 9-10 less dry than 1-4, 11-12 tends to dry out in middle of the heads, but retaining oil on the outside.... i guess what i'm saying is that i probably be fishing for something all night, but love the challenge! thanks again....
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