While it is not an everyday ball for me, I do use it with a light polish over its stock 2000 grit surface. I have used it a bit this past late Spring and early summer and it's still a fairly strong ball when I can find true medium oil. It's drilled on the strong side for me: 40 x 4.5 x 55. With this surface and this drilling, it's fairly even reacting with better than average hitting power. FYI I am slightly rev dominant.

I would wonder if they left their Big Curve in the slightly rough 2000 grit matte surface and if they use it on a good deal of oil. Then are they cleaning it regularly AND maintaining the surface?

Also it's possible that, since it is designed for medium-heavy oil, with a kind of rough surface, it can burn up a lot of energy in the midlane and hook very little on light oil. If they have enough ball speed, it could seem to be a control ball with decent hitting power - with the hitting power coming from the ball speed, not the ball rolling near the pocket. Remember house oil patterns tend to hide the difference in ball reactions.

For managing oil absorption, I use Motiv Scuff as a liquid compound extractor. I'll give the ball a scuff bath every 20 games or so. The stuff really works. Keep the cover between 1000-2000 grit abralon (based on your THS needs). If you don't have access to a spinner, use one of the liquid sanding compounds (Motov Scuff, Storm Reacta Scuff, NeoTac Liquid Sandpaper). They all work great by hand, and you can achieve the surface you want without too much effort. 

Do these things and the Maxx will reward you with a long and happy life. Enjoy.

You can add Valentino's Resurrection to those compounds that maintain a dull surface and help remove oil.

+1 on Valentino's Resurrection.  That stuff worked perfectly on my Outlaw when I picked that up and needed to give it a really good deep cleaning while maintaining the dull surface.  RemedyRx after every set keeps it in great shape.

Actually, any of the Valentino's products are really good to work with.