BallReviews
Equipment Boards => Lane #1 => Topic started by: lane1lover on April 29, 2007, 12:48:51 PM
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when drilled with 5 x 3, pin under fingers, ball too steady, when drill with 4 x 4, ball hook too early, but if I put polished to it, it skid out.
I am consider to drill it with pin under ring and CG kick out for a flare adding hole.... any good idea for better choice ? I don't want to waste this ball but however, I cannot get a good shape from this ball. In fact, my Original Black Buzzsaw has better shape than this blueberry. LOL
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http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/view/full/998657_7fnlj
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/view/full/998656_sznsn
Works for me... the x-hole is 6 3/4" from the pin on the line extended from the grip center through the CG. I've left mine at OOB and the layout is 3.5"x4"
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"A word to the wise ain't necessary -- it's the stupid ones that need the advice." Bill Cosby
"Never argue with an idiot. They bring you down to their level and beat you with experience."
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Thanks J Mac, your layout is exactly what I am having right now, but my pin is under the finger, I am a high track player and this is the fault that my driller don't count me a raise bowtie balance hole.
I want to try the balance hole that you are having... anyway, what is the ending static weight ? what is the finish of the OOB ?
thank you !
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quote:
Thanks J Mac, your layout is exactly what I am having right now, but my pin is under the finger, I am a high track player and this is the fault that my driller don't count me a raise bowtie balance hole.
I want to try the balance hole that you are having... anyway, what is the ending static weight ? what is the finish of the OOB ?
thank you !
Ending static weight? It's legal, what else matters? LOL
OOB finish is likely 400 grit sandpaper with Brunswick Factory Finish Polish. *shrug*
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"A word to the wise ain't necessary -- it's the stupid ones that need the advice." Bill Cosby
"Never argue with an idiot. They bring you down to their level and beat you with experience."
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quote:
when drilled with 5 x 3, pin under fingers, ball too steady, when drill with 4 x 4, ball hook too early, but if I put polished to it, it skid out.
I am consider to drill it with pin under ring and CG kick out for a flare adding hole.... any good idea for better choice ? I don't want to waste this ball but however, I cannot get a good shape from this ball. In fact, my Original Black Buzzsaw has better shape than this blueberry. LOL
Going from 5x3 to 4x4 is a change but, normally, not the huge change you say you are seeing. The ball came or comes polished; How much polish did you add?
Maybe you needed an intermediate level of ... less dull. I hesitate to say polish. Have you tried different levels of sanding (1500 grit, 2000 grit, 4000 grit) and different levels of polish with each drill?
If you haven't it could be that you missed the surface change you needed for whatever oil patterns you are bowling on.
The Blueberry, being very simialr to the Pink and the Black Raspberry is an incredibly versatile ball, with the PK 18 cover and that core. I suspect you just missed the drill & surface combination you need/want.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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charlest, I have sanded it to 1000 with finesse IT, the pin distance of the ball is 2.5 inch. so I put the pin under the finger. I don't have much experience on the solid PK18. what is the best finish and layout for reverse block old wood lane ? and with this short pin ball ?
compare with my 1" pin (just under ring) Original black BZ and my 4 x 3 pin under ring, Balance hole 4:30 past VAL GN, this blueberry cannot give me a continuous break, I know I should missed some combination/magic of this ball, so that is why I posted in my first message that what is the best layout and finish of this ball.
This is the 2nd Lane1 ball that make me confuse, the other one is polished SCB with drilled with 5x5 pin over the fingers. the ball is roll-out everytime. I am now drilled this ball with pin above ring and CG kick out 2" , balance hole in PAP but not played yet. I have lots of successful to drill all my bomb equipement with this layout but because of the nature of the SCB, my first drilling of this ball of 5x5, actually, I want to get more length but the effect is not.
thanks !
Edited on 4/29/2007 10:13 PM
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Folks at Lane 1 are a GREAT help !!!
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**** Official "L/LM" ball "junkie" ****
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Robb in O'Fallon, IL 62269 (near Scott AFB)
LAYBZZ74@AOL.COM (Email and PayPal addy)
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quote:
charlest, I have sanded it to 1000 with finesse IT, the pin distance of the ball is 2.5 inch. so I put the pin under the finger. I don't have much experience on the solid PK18. what is the best finish and layout for reverse block old wood lane ? and with this short pin ball ?
compare with my 1" pin (just under ring) Original black BZ and my 4 x 3 pin under ring, Balance hole 4:30 past VAL GN, this blueberry cannot give me a continuous break, I know I should missed some combination/magic of this ball, so that is why I posted in my first message that what is the best layout and finish of this ball.
This is the 2nd Lane1 ball that make me confuse, the other one is polished SCB with drilled with 5x5 pin over the fingers. the ball is roll-out everytime. I am now drilled this ball with pin above ring and CG kick out 2" , balance hole in PAP but not played yet. I have lots of successful to drill all my bomb equipement with this layout but because of the nature of the SCB, my first drilling of this ball of 5x5, actually, I want to get more length but the effect is not.
thanks !
Edited on 4/29/2007 10:13 PM
reverse block wood lanes? this is the wrong ball for that condtion, your inconsistent reaction is due to the hook slide you get from reverse blocks, if either of those drillings were thrown on a normal THS with normal volumes you would see night and day differences
Unless you are able to play the oil line and be good with lofting the ball, I dont see this ball as a viable option on that condtion
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www.bowlingballexchange.com
Triggerman
F.O.S Loud, F.O.S. Proud
Lane #1 Baby
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For me I stay far away from label drills, way to inconsistant... I've tried several balls this way and don't like a one..
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quote:
For me I stay far away from label drills, way to inconsistant... I've tried several balls this way and don't like a one..
Ditto, that's why I'm glad the USBC didn't pass some of the BS rules they were cooking up a year back or so.
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"A word to the wise ain't necessary -- it's the stupid ones that need the advice." Bill Cosby
"Never argue with an idiot. They bring you down to their level and beat you with experience."
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Soooo....based on recent banter...would a ball drilled Label 1:30 react different than a stacked drill with the pin in the same location? Only if a weight hole is added, right? I have no problem with Label 1:30 drills when I want max flare.
However, for MY Blueberry, I went with pin under bridge (5" from PAP) and no weight hole. I love the smooth, predictable reaction this ball/drill provides.
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Jon (in Ohio)
CHROME WON'T GET YOU HOME!
F.O.S. Proud Saw user...see profile.
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Well, my 2 cents worth. I owned 2 blueberries. One with a 4" pin & one with a 1 1/2" pin. The long pin I drilled stacked with pin over ring & cg in thumb quadrant. The ball went long & smooth with a gradual move. The short pin I drilled 1:30 label & it was much more aggressive with a pronounced backend move. I loved them both.
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Righty
Think about it!
The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they are ignorant, but that they know so much that isn't so. Ronald Reagan
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quote:
Soooo....based on recent banter...would a ball drilled Label 1:30 react different than a stacked drill with the pin in the same location? Only if a weight hole is added, right?
Well if you ask Nick, NO you'd see the balls do the exact same thing 100% of the time.. But I'm sorry I don't believe that and with a doubt believe you would see 2 different reactions. If Anyone want's to prove me wrong, my EU is drilled Stacked someone mail me a NIB EU with an exact 2" PIN and 3oz TOP and I'll drill it up 1:30 label and prove the difference..
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Nova,
Correct, you are spot-on with your thinking. You will not see a difference. My 2 test balls were shifted about 6" from eachother with over 3oz difference in statics. Track flare was unchanged as well as hook potential/shape.
zeus,
Your test is skewed from the get-go. How could you compare a fresh ball to one that has been used? With thinking like that, no wonder there is so much misinformation being thrown around on message forums.
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Nick Smith ... A.K.A. Les Badderâ„¢
Brunswick -=- PBA 03-07
http://www.BrunsNick.com
http://www.BigBapparel.com
¡Viva la nación de Brunswick!
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Your test is skewed from the get-go. How could you compare a fresh ball to one that has been used? With thinking like that, no wonder there is so much misinformation being thrown around on message forums.
Ok, so what ball should be stronger. A slightly used EU drilled stacked or a NEW EU drilled 1:30 Label? The new ball right, wouldn't that prove me wrong?
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Why don't you just test a completely different ball while you're at it? The results would be as valid.
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Nick Smith ... A.K.A. Les Badderâ„¢
Brunswick -=- PBA 03-07
http://www.BrunsNick.com
http://www.BigBapparel.com
¡Viva la nación de Brunswick!
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quote:
Why don't you just test a completely different ball while you're at it? The results would be as valid.
Ok, send me 2 NIB Lane#1 balls of your choice and I'll be glad to try it out..
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zeus,
side weight really don't have much different, what I am trying to do is adding back a flare hole to raise up the bowtie location that my ball now having, my driller checked my ball have 7/8 pos side weight and 3/4 thumb weight, I blamed him that i susposed to have that flare and bowite raising hole with this pin under ring and cg kick out 2 inches and 1" below the center line.
for symmetric ball, the location of Balance hole does matter. it will alter the core for desire reaction.
Nick tested ball don't have deep balance hole that alter the core shape, that is different
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I'm having trouble understanding what your saying here.
THis is what I take from that: the ball driller drilled the ball w/ PIN under ring w/ CG kicked out and no X-Hole. I believe he left the X-hole out cause the ball is under the limits.
I agree that a properly place X-Hole is important, and will raise the bowtie. I had this issue with my C+, at first we didn't drill a X-Hole cause the ball was under the limits but w/o the X-Hole it would track over the fingers; Once we added the X-hole the track moved away from the fingers.
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yes, i have mentioned the bowite now is just above 1" of the center line, I susposed the core was changed due to my 3rd drill of this ball, the problem of the ball without the x-hole now is not what I expected to have with this layout. So i gave my ball back to my driller and finally know he should have mistake to placed the CG so that he thought the 7/8 pos side weight cannot punch that x-hole.
PS. i am a high track bowler.