Author Topic: Black Pearl Reactive Surface (Read 2214 times)

nu2 · « **on:** March 09, 2009, 04:48:48 AM »

Hi all,

I want to do a resurface on my Black Pearl Reactive as it got beat up pretty badly. However, everywhere I searched I wasn't able to find any info about its OOB Information other than "factory polish". Does anyone know what grit of sandpaper / Abarlon pad that I should?

Thanks,

AT

PLM · « **Reply #1 on:** March 09, 2009, 12:56:29 PM »

I contacted Lane Masters a while back and they said it was a white scotch brite pad (similar to 1000 grit). Bowlers Journal's reviews as listed in the USBC member magazine said 2000 grit. So, I guess I am still not certain, but you could call them to get verification.

nu2 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 09, 2009, 08:23:38 PM »

I did email them earlier and this is the reply I got from them:

The factory finish for that ball calls for what we call a "1200 Sheen". To do an actual resurface or the ball (as opposed to restoring the factory finish) it is recommended you start with a diamond cutting disk using a ball spinner. The disks are available through Lane Masters and will last for hundreds of ball resurfaces. If you own a pro shop, it is a worthwhile investment, otherwise you may just want to put in a little more elbow grease with 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper to start. The next steps would be to work your way up through 400 and 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper, making sure to rotate the ball in the spinner to a diff axis each time. Once you have completed the 800 grit step, use a clean dry terry cloth towel to apply our factory finish polish (yellow label). It is important that you generate a little heat to burnish the polish into the surface. What this does is to help seal the ball to prevent excess oil in the pores. For the final step, use a dry, white Scotchbrite pad on the surface of the ball lightly to give it a "sheen" appearance. This exposes some, but not all of the surface for a little added traction and to help smooth the transition coming of the oil pattern. Hope this helps and it comes out like what you are looking for.

charlest · « **Reply #3 on:** March 09, 2009, 08:43:50 PM »

Everything up to the White nylon pad is standard Lanemasters surfacing technique. BURNING their polish into the ball to get a high gloss polish is important.

Personally I never got a white pad to affect the ball's surface. I have almost stopped a spinner before it even began to affect the surface. (That is very bad thing.) But please try it. Maybe you'll have better luck than I did.

I'd try a blue nylon pad. It is 1000 grit US and can be most often found attached to a kitchen sized sponge (great!), about 2.5" x 4", 15 for $6 or $8 at BJ's or CostCo.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

justink · « **Reply #4 on:** March 10, 2009, 11:50:42 AM »

Would a 1000grit abralon pad be too aggresive?

This process interests me greatly. One because I have a Black Pearl Reactive, and two because I am fine tuning the polishing on my Big Bang. But I don't have a white pad...
--------------------
"A little nonsense now and then is relished by the wisest men."
-Gene Wilder

charlest · « **Reply #5 on:** March 10, 2009, 11:06:52 PM »

quote:
Would a 1000grit abralon pad be too aggresive?

This process interests me greatly. One because I have a Black Pearl Reactive, and two because I am fine tuning the polishing on my Big Bang. But I don't have a white pad...
--------------------
"A little nonsense now and then is relished by the wisest men."
-Gene Wilder

I don't think so. Most times, as far as I can tell, when LM references a grit level, they're talking about US levels. 1000 grit Abralon is roughly 550 grit US. 2000 grit Abralon is around 1000 grit US, if you want to be close to stock. I'd suggest using water and a very light touch. You can always do more. You can't do less or go in reverse

. You have to start all over.

Do you have either of Ebonite's Matte Finish or Track's Clean and Smooth?
Both are light abrasives and can get you close when done by hand with a terry cloth towel over a polished surface.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

justink · « **Reply #6 on:** March 11, 2009, 10:21:03 AM »

No I only have Track Clean & Dull, which I really like. But it has no abrasives, so it won't do that job.

I have four grits in the abralon pads: 500, 1000, 2000, and 4000. What you said about using the 2000 with water and a light touch, sounds about right. I never sand with those pads dry. So I will give this a whirl.

Using the Bean's Secret Sauce, I just have had issues with my Big Bang tracking out really quick. I will try 800 wet sand and then the Ebonite Factory Finish and give her a good burn in, then do the 2000 wet abralon.

If this works I will know what to do with my Black Pearl Reactive when it needs a resurface, it's original has lasted nicely.
--------------------
"A little nonsense now and then is relished by the wisest men."
-Gene Wilder

charlest · « **Reply #7 on:** March 11, 2009, 10:46:33 AM »

justink,

Please remember one other thing (maybe it is new to you) that someone told me once: the manufacturer's stock surface on any ball is what they think will be the most generic for their ball. They want their ball to work well and get good results. Of course, BUT, and here's the idea: the stock surface is just a suggestion on their part and a good starting point. Use what works best for you, your release and the condiiton on which you're bowling. If it's a 4000 grit pad or if it's a piece of Brillo (God forbid!), it makes no difference.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

justink · « **Reply #8 on:** March 11, 2009, 11:38:56 AM »

I understand, I've never been afraid to change the surface on any of my balls. I built my own spinner so that I could clean and adjust any of them when I want to.

My issue here lately has been that I really like the Big Bang in the polished form and it isn't lasting as long as it should. So when I saw this post about a ball that I also have and it made me think that this might be a good way to get the Big Bang's polish to last longer. One thing about my Big Bang is that I don't really know what surface it was before I polished it to begin with been through too many different changes with it as is. So this will give me a starting point and go from. One thing I never do is bowl with a ball after changing the surface on it in league or tournaments, until I have a chance to throw a couple games in practice with it.
--------------------
"A little nonsense now and then is relished by the wisest men."
-Gene Wilder

charlest · « **Reply #9 on:** March 11, 2009, 03:50:34 PM »

Some thoughts:

Is the BB yours new or did you buy it used?

Even with Lm/L's reputation for lasting longer, it could be oil soaked. They could need extraction like any other ball.

BB is a particle ball. If you're putting a hand polish on, the particles could be "biting" thru the polish, so to speak. I assume, however, that you're using a light coat applied with the spinner. FYI With normal sandpaper or Abralon, Lanemasters particles rarely change much. What you change is the resin in which they're embedded. That said, it still makes a difference. Polish makes Lm/L ball skid like any other.

Try using a non-abrasive polish like Lanemaster own or Snake Oil.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

justink · « **Reply #10 on:** March 12, 2009, 10:56:28 AM »

I bought it new, or I should say my ex-boss bought it for me for meeting a sales goal. It has never been used more than 9 games without being put back on the shelf. This includes having the thumb plugged and moved slightly due to a bad thumb placement. Before I polished it I would say it had maybe 50 games on it, just never could make it work consistently for more than a game. It was like I got alittle carry down and it would just skate through it instead of biting and making the turn like my NS2 does. So I have just shelved it more than used it.

Since I polished it, I've had to move right. That is a good thing I am more comfortable down and in anyway. I have used it almost exclusively since this polishing. Very beautiful on the backend, I can see the core just tip and go, nice.

I have only used Legends polish once, so I really never gave it much of a chance. I am really still learning how to properly polish a ball, prior to my Hammer Blue Vibe and Legends BPR I never really liked polished balls. But like most bowlers I change from time to time and have increased my rev rate this allowed me to play more of the lane and actually make a ball turn the corner.
--------------------
"A little nonsense now and then is relished by the wisest men."
-Gene Wilder

charlest · « **Reply #11 on:** March 12, 2009, 12:19:55 PM »

Just a thought (which you may have already come to yourself:

quote:
... it would just skate through it instead of biting and making the turn like my NS2 does ...

The NS2 has a much stronger core than the BB, which has a go-long-and-flip type of core. The NS/NS2 core is rollier, earlier and has more flare. Under normal circumstances, if both were drilled similarly and used by the same bowler (assuming there was enough oil for both), I would estimate one would have to stand about 5 boards further inside/depper with an NS2 than a Big Bang.

Most LM/L sheen finished balls take to polish like a duck takes to water, retaining their explosive hitting power. Just apply less than you ordinarily would, for a first attempt. You can always add more.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

justink · « **Reply #12 on:** March 12, 2009, 01:37:41 PM »

I really had never thought of that before, to tell you the truth. I love the NS2, but the house I bowl in, just does not put down enough oil to use it. Plus due to me liking to put a little heat on it. I recently had my NS2 plugged and drilled pin below the fingers and CG Stacked:

o o
*

@
O

It was drilled for length with a shallow x-hole, not a great drilling for this ball. The only bad thing is that my home house has only put down enough oil for it during their PBAX leagues, so I may never get to use it again. Just kidding, it will be going with me to any and all tournaments.

As for one thing you mentioned about the particles "biting" through the polish. That I believe and think it's one thing that makes the BB such a nice polished ball. The outside at the house I call home is always a kindof "out of bounds" With this ball I can throw into that area a little and have it come flying out ready to make that beautiful Legends hit.
--------------------
"A little nonsense now and then is relished by the wisest men."
-Gene Wilder

Author Topic: Black Pearl Reactive Surface (Read 2214 times)

nu2

Black Pearl Reactive Surface

PLM

Re: Black Pearl Reactive Surface

nu2

Re: Black Pearl Reactive Surface

charlest

Re: Black Pearl Reactive Surface

justink

Re: Black Pearl Reactive Surface

charlest

Re: Black Pearl Reactive Surface

justink

Re: Black Pearl Reactive Surface

charlest

Re: Black Pearl Reactive Surface

justink

Re: Black Pearl Reactive Surface

charlest

Re: Black Pearl Reactive Surface

justink

Re: Black Pearl Reactive Surface

charlest

Re: Black Pearl Reactive Surface

justink

Re: Black Pearl Reactive Surface