What works best on diamond particles are diamond pads made for the Haus machine.
They are after all diamond, one the hardest substances on earth.

Abralon particles won't work on the diamonds, but the will sand the resin in which they are embedded.

I've found that Trizact comes pretty close to actually affecting the diamonds to a small degree.

The Big Kahuna is meant for oil, medium heavy, if you have average revs and average ball speed. The more speed dominant you are, the less oil ou can use it on. The more rev dominant, the more oil you need.

If you polish it, you will get more length, but then the diamond dig in and make it hook. Since this ball has such a small differential, and thus less flare, when you find it enough oil, it can have a strong  backend. Not a big back but a sharp backend.

Drilling will of course, affect its ball reaction.

I loved it and found it a big carry monster, if you had enough oil.

If you don't know how much use it has had, you should do an oil extraction, even though Legends (Lane Masters) ball tend to absorb very ittle oil on average.

Thank you, was hoping you'd reply. Have tame drill 50x5x60. Was kinda hoping to move right, kinda use it down & in. So far this year our pattern has moved me left of center. Where can you find those pads? Scotch pads work? I usually start w/burgundy then move up to surface I want. Was also thinkin of using rough buff???

Scotch Bright will also only affect the resin not the diamonds themselves.

Oh, the process to get LM "sheen":
The ball is sanded to 800 grit with a Scotch-Brite pad (SB ads use CAMI grading; so 800 grit CAMI = 1600 grit FEPA), then their own Factory Finish polish is applied severely to get a high gloss shine, then (the diamond equivalent to) a Scotch-Brite light grey pad is applied by hand to get the the polish hazed.

I wouldn't attempt to do this process by hand; it is fr too difficult, especially with a ball with diamond particles. Heck, it's hard to do to a plain resin ball like the Buzz, no less on of their diamond or Carbon particle balls.

Just put the surface on it that will get you the length you need. Don't worry about affecting the particles.

Here's one source for the Trizact pads:
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=132-224
Warning - these have no foam backing. These are the white, orange, blue and green ones of 5" diameters, that are also used to finish glass.
If you do a search on Amazon you can find some at 3000 and 5000 grit that do have a foam backing, but they usually come in lots of 15 or 3" and 5" diameters and they can be expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A9ZPHOA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2LQE2MVU2HTQ4&coliid=I3PNJNSFU799QN
http://www.amazon.com/3M-02096-Trizact-Hookit-P3000/dp/B005RMZRFY/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1442473568&sr=1-2&keywords=3M+Hookit+Trizact+5%22+Foam+Disc

Thanks Charlest, I do have a ball spinner. I will check on those pads. So, pretty rough to start then polish??

Thanks Charlest, I do have a ball spinner. I will check on those pads. So, pretty rough to start then polish??

NO! Sorry, my fault for typing at 3 AM. Not "80", but "800" grit CAMI, which is equivalent to 1600 grit FEPA (Abralon, Siaair and Trizact and mot sandpaper use FEPA grading these days. I re-edited my reply with clarifying comments in parentheses.

Sand the ball any way you want to get it to roughly 1600 grit (Siaair and Abralon all have 1500 grit pads). I'd suggest 500 grit, then 1000grit, then 1500 grit as a sequence.