Author Topic: World class particle (Read 1898 times)

BigHorhn · « **on:** May 29, 2008, 01:22:37 AM »

Can the world class particle handle heavy oil? I have one that I just drilled. It has the pin next and above the ring finger with the cg stacked (4x4). It has a 3-3 1/2 inch pin with a weight hole in the thumb quadrant. I was fortunate to be able to throw it on one of the pba patterns, scorpion I think. The oil was a little heavier than what I normally encounter, but that was cool because I want the World class to be my heavy oil ball. I wasn't getting it to wrinkle at first, then I took the burgundy pad that came with the ball and took the shine of by hand. I got a better reaction after that but not quite what I wanted. Should I have drilled it stronger with the pin down or should I just change the surface? I think it comes out of box 800 matte. If so, how difficult is it to change the surface since the diamond particles are supposed to be so strong? thanks

Foppe · « **Reply #1 on:** May 29, 2008, 09:53:16 AM »

Hey,

the box finish should be 1000 sheen.

I don't know much about the ball for the rest, so I let the guys with more expierence answer the rest.

greetz.

BigHorhn · « **Reply #2 on:** May 29, 2008, 11:17:28 AM »

Thanks Foppe. I didn't know that it came 1000 grit. I would think that in order for it to handle the real heavy stuff it needs to be lower. At least for me being on the left side. Anybody have any opinions on taking it down a bit to say 400-600 grit matte? My ball driller has already told me its hard work to do any sanding to the cover. Any suggestions? Thanks

charlest · « **Reply #3 on:** May 29, 2008, 11:19:15 AM »

If your release/delivery specs in your profile are anywhere near accurate, that ball and drilling should handle almost ANY amount of oil.

Keep in mind that, in general, you should not expect to cover 49 boards of hook. This is not a big hooking ball, because the flare potential is only average, but the coverstock is very strong.

The bigger danger is that I'd be wary of not having enough oil. Your ball speed is not high enough to worry about the ball not hooking, but is low enough to worry more about the ball burning up in the midlane. If you're not getting enough backend to POUND the pocket, my inclination is to guess there's not enough oil, NOT that there's too much.

Reagrding the drilling: I might not have put the pin quite as high as you did, but with the CG where it was and the weight hole (hopefully, its position is 6" or more from grip center) where it is, the ball reaction should good.

Foppe is right the finish is a sheen. Do not take a burgundy pad to it. That is 320 grit that's way too rough. My suggestion is to take a grey pad to it BY HAND, to haze the ball more. test it then do it again if needed.

Again, this is a fairly strong cover with a very early rolling core.

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charlest · « **Reply #4 on:** May 29, 2008, 12:16:37 PM »

quote:
quote:
Thanks Foppe. I didn't know that it came 1000 grit.

1000 grit sheen is NOT 1000 grit matte/dull.
The basic finish is a super high gloss polish with their Factory Finish polish on top of an 800 grit sanding. Then they sand it with a worn grey pad, so that there's a haze of the high gloss polish.

This is not equivalent to a straight 1000 grit sanding.

In general, if you sand it to 2000 grit with Abralon of wet/dry sandpaper, it will hook earlier than the stock 1000 grit sheen finish. SO you can see that a 600 or 800 grit sanding on these balls is very rough indeed.

I would think that in order for it to handle the real heavy stuff it needs to be lower. At least for me being on the left side. Anybody have any opinions on taking it down a bit to say 400-600 grit matte? My ball driller has already told me its hard work to do any sanding to the cover. Any suggestions? Thanks

No, you should not need a 400 - 600 grit sanding with your rev rate and ball speed. See my comments above.
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Edited on 6/2/2008 4:19 PM

BigHorhn · « **Reply #5 on:** May 29, 2008, 01:15:51 PM »

Thanks charlest I was hoping that you would comment. I'll give it a little more time before I try anything else. I only have three games on it. I used the burgundy pad by hand and that was only to get the shine of of it, a couple of minutes tops. Do you think that could alter the cover much? It did pick up the role earlier though when I hit it with that pad. Have you had much success with altering the cover on lanemasters bowling balls? It actually has a place in my arsenal with the drill on it and the cover like it is. I have a chance to get a NS2 for cheap. I my go with that if the world class doesn't fill my need for a real heavy oiler. Thanks

charlest · « **Reply #6 on:** May 29, 2008, 02:37:00 PM »

The Lanemasters particles are, in general, very hard. For the most part, you will be affecting the resin base, not the particles, unless you use trizact or Haus diamond wheels. This is not a bad things. Changing the surface always makes a difference. The good thing is small surface changes, I have found, usually make a distinct difference. Distinct means easy to see it does not mean BIG difference. Most of the time distinct differences are enough.

I have made changes to older balls (New Standard, NS2, Yeah Baby, Big Kahuna) and to newer ones, like the Buzz. With certain drillings, I can use surface changes to the NS and the Buzz to make them serve 3 distinct oil amounts: medium-light, medium and medium-heavy oil. Yes, given a chance these balls are very versatile via surface changes. However, these balls are such fun to throw, I don't have the patience not to use a different one for each condition.

Funny you should mention the NS2. I have mine sanded to 4000 grit. It is my current heavy oil ball, but I can't find enough oil to use it anywhere.

(I also sanded one to 2000 grit and put as strong a gloss polish on it that I could. I used it temporarily for medium-light oil, but it had so much backend I couldn't control it. The NS balls/cores flare a lot.)
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charlest · « **Reply #7 on:** May 29, 2008, 02:44:37 PM »

WC vs NS2

The WC is designed to be a oiler, but it is NOT a big hooking ball. (FYI your rev rate and ball speed are not far from mine. I couldn't find enough oil for the 2 WCs I had. One had pin under ring finger and the other had pin over center of bridge. I polished the pin high ball and was able to BARELY use it fo rmedium oil. )

The NS2 is designed, with the stock surface, to be a control ball for medium to medium-heavy oil. It has a heavy load of particles. Sanded to anywhere from 1000 to 4000 grit, it needs a ton of midlane oil or lots of ball speed. It flares more than the WC maybe you need that. Hard to say.

Please first try, not hand roughing, but either wet/dry sandpaper or Abralon: take the WC to 1000 grit, then to 2000 grit, matte or dull. NO polish. If 2000 goes too long, take it back to 1000 grit.

Good luck.
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BigHorhn · « **Reply #8 on:** May 29, 2008, 03:15:46 PM »

Thanks charlest. So the burgundy pad is the equivalent to 320 grit. You're right that probably is to much. I think I also should have kept the pin lower. Then taking the shine of of it would have been enough. Should have got the drill right the first time. I don't like redrilling new equipment so quickly. I will just leave it like it is and replace it. I think I will give the NS2 a try and drill it with a lower pin. I like rollie bowling balls. In the mean time I will try taking the cover down with a abralon pad or sandpaper in stages. Thanks for the advise. With a pin high world class and a pin low NS2 I will have the heavy stuff covered. I appreciate it.

charlest · « **Reply #9 on:** May 29, 2008, 04:23:59 PM »

quote:
Thanks charlest. ... Thanks for the advise. I appreciate it

You're welcome, but please save any thanks for when my advice works. Since this is all "by remote control", it's hard to say how accurate it will be for you. Everyone's delivery/release differs by small to large amounts. This is just my best guess for your estimate of your release.

quote:

With a pin high world class and a pin low NS2 I will have the heavy stuff covered.

It should, IN THEORY. Please let us know how it works in practice.

Please don't be afraid to fine tune in small increments and test relatively thoroughly to be sure you have the right picture in your mind's eye for every ball and its reaction.

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Kinalyx · « **Reply #10 on:** June 02, 2008, 12:13:04 PM »

IMO it works on "heavy" oil fine. By "heavy" i mean the heaviest that i hit on a THS. Anything thats a TRUE heavy oil, i doubt it would move much. At that point u should have a terminator or a Conquerer to handle the heavier. That, or just learn to play str8 up 15 & hope for the 2 boards of hook.

On a side note. MY WCP is my favorite ball......not of all time, but of at least the past 2 years. Its the first ball out of my bag, even tho i dont hit enough oil for it much. Ive actually polished the crap out of it a few times, but it just puts it too close to my buzz to make it worth the effort.

Im actually contemplating buying another as a spare, since theyve discontinued it.

Shawn

BigHorhn · « **Reply #11 on:** June 02, 2008, 03:43:21 PM »

Thanks for all the comments. Kinalyx since I have dulled the cover a little more on the world class it is able to handle more oil, more medium heavy though. I like it and will carry it in the bag. I have a chance to get a terminator at a good price. I just didn't know whether I wanted another particle for heavy. I sort of want a strong reactive for a quicker move of the dry. Would the terminator give me that? I was thinking about going with a pin low drill on it. Hoping that I would have a good one two punch for the heavy stuff with the world class at 4x4 and the terminator pin low at 4x3 1/2 Let me know what you think. Thanks

zone · « **Reply #12 on:** June 02, 2008, 09:59:38 PM »

used a sanded down world class particle tonight on the 2008 usbc open pattern did amazing. great control and hook in the thick stuff.
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Author Topic: World class particle (Read 1898 times)

BigHorhn

World class particle

Foppe

Re: World class particle

BigHorhn

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charlest

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charlest

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BigHorhn

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charlest

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charlest

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BigHorhn

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charlest

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Kinalyx

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BigHorhn

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zone

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