Author Topic: 24 Foot Sport oil pattern. (Read 10426 times)

hotshot187 · « **on:** July 25, 2006, 10:26:33 AM »

Has anyone bowled on one of these? What is the best way to play this and what type of bowling ball?

Edited on 7/25/2006 6:21 PM

imjouster · « **Reply #1 on:** July 25, 2006, 06:41:32 PM »

Frankly, I've never heard of a 24 foot pattern. shortest I've seen and rolled on was a 33 foot pattern that was put out for our short league. if it is indeed a 24 foot pattern then take your plastic ball and go up the back of it and aim it right at the pocket, thats probably your best bet.

Jeremy

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"Strive to be perfect, that is afterall the only way to become perfect."

"If you compare yourself with others,
you may become vain and bitter;
for always there will be greater and lesser persons than yourself.
Enjoy your achievements as well as your plans."

Taken from Desiderata

Proud user of Columbia 300 and Visionary Bowling Products

azus · « **Reply #2 on:** July 25, 2006, 06:41:38 PM »

24 foot? Is it heavy or light oil? I would use weak polished reactive, possibly with a 6" layout or similar to get as little hook out of it as possible.
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I like my coffee black, just like my metal.

hotshot187 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 25, 2006, 06:46:35 PM »

I talked to two people at my house the pro shop owner and the employee that worked there. The employee said it was 28 foot and the pro shop owner told me it was 24 foot. Any who I bowled a NICE 123 on it and left.

Edited on 7/25/2006 6:42 PM

Mvpbowler · « **Reply #4 on:** July 25, 2006, 06:49:10 PM »

Anyone that has bowled the Boot Hill in Vernon Hills, Illinois would know about this. The tournament director puts out about 5 or 6 different shots through the course of the week for each event. Usually he has a 20-25 ft pattern or so... Basically you just try and take something weak/lower end and take everything you can out of it, stand left throw it to the gutter. On a 20-25 ft pattern its hard to throw it in the gutter. You can leave lots of 5-7-10's, 8-10s, etc... because your ball is using up so much of the energy so early! It is pretty difficult to bowl on, but lots of fun if you ask me!! I have always enjoyed it. Hope that helps you out
--------------------
George Palumbo
Mvpbowler300@yahoo.com
Mvpbowler@aol.com
2002 True Amateur Challenge Champion
www.stormbowling.com

Walking E · « **Reply #5 on:** July 25, 2006, 06:49:25 PM »

Wasn't 24-ft short oil what we all bowled on in the late 80s/early 90s? Urethane worked great on that condition.
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Official Member of the BrunsTrackColumStormHammEboRotoBuzzAMF Nation!

Joe Jr · « **Reply #6 on:** July 25, 2006, 08:17:47 PM »

They had a 24foot shot out at JuniorGold few years back. Most threw plastic from inside playing like 15 to 10. Others played out in the OB with stronger equipment. I played out.
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- Joe
Formerly Richard Cranium

www.Brunswickbowling.com
www.Brunswickinsiders.com

Edited on 7/21/2006 1:21 PM

azus · « **Reply #7 on:** July 25, 2006, 08:19:54 PM »

It sounds harder then the 50ft pattern i bowled on last winter

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I like my coffee black, just like my metal.

dirtbikebowler · « **Reply #8 on:** July 25, 2006, 11:43:56 PM »

Wow thats damn short...shouldnt be that bad.
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Taking over the lanes with Mother Nature!

TWOHAND834 · « **Reply #9 on:** July 25, 2006, 11:52:27 PM »

Memory serves me correctly, the BTM at Knoxville a few years back was a 25 foot pattern. Whatever it was it was retarded. But, I distinctly remember the person running the BTM that it was somewhere in the 20s. The person who won, I was told he used a plastic ball, used to normal release, and played dead up the 10 board. I think the best place to play is up the 1-2-3 boards with something plastic. I do not think an entry level resin is the way to go, even with a 6 inch pin. Reason, that ball will only store that much more energy and be too aggressive even if it were to make the backend. If you go with a resin ball, put the pin on your axis. This takes the flare completely out of the ball making the reaction more controllable.
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Steven Vance
Former Pro Shop Operator

If anyone out there is worried about the scores being too high, try duckpin!!

gnlover16 · « **Reply #10 on:** July 26, 2006, 12:51:34 AM »

XXXL, Lane #1, best ball for a short pattern, wont overhook at all.
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Lane #1 and Storm for me

Lane #1
Blueberry
Emerald
Golden Nugget
Black Cherry Bomb(x2)
Cobalt Bomb

Storm
Paridigm
Ace(298)
Agent

Other Balls that I have
Brunswick Scorchin Inferno NIB
Brunswick Rampage drilled LH
16 lB Storm HRG

stanski · « **Reply #11 on:** July 26, 2006, 04:49:01 PM »

Is it buffed past 24 feet though? that is the question no one here has asked.

In any event, you need something low flare that creates a lot of length. Taking a very mild ball and placing the pin 6 inches from axis and high should be best. Pin axis will roll way too early for something like this.
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stanski

JessN16 · « **Reply #12 on:** July 26, 2006, 06:45:19 PM »

Same as others have said. Unless you have revs, I wouldn't necessarily go with plastic as a first option unless you were using something like a XXXL or a polished urethane like a Visionary Slate Blue Gargoyle. Dry or not, the ball's gotta have a core.

Otherwise, I'd get something reactive that was very polished and very mild. If you can find a real oldie like a Meteor Storm or one of the Track Sensor balls, then drill it pin way over the bridge, that would be my vote. Those balls had cores, and were very controllable. A Roto Grip Retro Resurrection has worked well for me on those conditions; just make sure you polish the crap out of it first.

Jess

p.s.: The buff information is also important to have; if it's 24 feet and then nothing, good luck. If it's 24 with a little buff, you have more options. If it were me, I'd be standing left and throwing as far right as I could go without burning up the ball. Down and in straight up the back would work but it wouldn't be my first choice.

stanski · « **Reply #13 on:** July 26, 2006, 08:05:54 PM »

quote:
Same as others have said. Unless you have revs, I wouldn't necessarily go with plastic as a first option unless you were using something like a XXXL or a polished urethane like a Visionary Slate Blue Gargoyle. Dry or not, the ball's gotta have a core.

Otherwise, I'd get something reactive that was very polished and very mild. If you can find a real oldie like a Meteor Storm or one of the Track Sensor balls, then drill it pin way over the bridge, that would be my vote. Those balls had cores, and were very controllable. A Roto Grip Retro Resurrection has worked well for me on those conditions; just make sure you polish the crap out of it first.

Jess

p.s.: The buff information is also important to have; if it's 24 feet and then nothing, good luck. If it's 24 with a little buff, you have more options. If it were me, I'd be standing left and throwing as far right as I could go without burning up the ball. Down and in straight up the back would work but it wouldn't be my first choice.

I'm going to disagree slightly and say that the core is not necessarily important. A core is meant to create entry angle and good roll into the pocket, not make the ball "hit harder," so his best option might be a 3 piece pancake. I'll also disagree and say that there is no way you can stand left and throw right on this condition, the reaction will be horrible and you will never get it out far enough and if you do, it will burn up and probably not come back. Instead, hard and fast (think norm duke at... can't think of the last tournament of the years name) here.

But, in this case, I would think a very mild reactive, something like a blue green centaur, would work better. The slate blue might be a good choice as well (not that i am a big visionary fan, but just giving you an idea of what ball types I would choose).
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stanski

Edited on 7/26/2006 8:02 PM

JessN16 · « **Reply #14 on:** July 26, 2006, 10:12:36 PM »

quote:

I'm going to disagree slightly and say that the core is not necessarily important. A core is meant to create entry angle and good roll into the pocket, not make the ball "hit harder," so his best option might be a 3 piece pancake. I'll also disagree and say that there is no way you can stand left and throw right on this condition, the reaction will be horrible and you will never get it out far enough and if you do, it will burn up and probably not come back. Instead, hard and fast (think norm duke at... can't think of the last tournament of the years name) here.

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stanski

Edited on 7/26/2006 8:02 PM

I think a core does more than just create angle; it also provides stability through the roll after the ball hits the pins. You can create big entry angles with even plastic, but if you don't have the right core shape you'll get deflection. A ball with its weight block out on the perimeter (pancake) will flare more than a ball with its weight concentrated in the center (light bulb), but it is also more unstable in its roll.

As for the stand left/throw right, it can be done *IF* you have a certain skill set. If you have good revs and speed and can get the ball to the breakpoint before it burns up, you can play that line on a very dry shot. To a point, I can, but I get to a certain point and then I'm more comfortable changing equipment and going back to the right again.

I agree with you about Norm Duke; another option on this pattern is to get something hook/set, get right, either suitcase the ball or go straight up the back, dial the speed up and pipe it in from whatever angle you can create. After the Bragging Rights tournament last week, we continued to bowl on the Reno pattern until we'd burnt it absolutely to death, and I ended up throwing my best game of the weekend by taking a pro-pin Paradigm, moving dead right and throwing straight up 5. This particular ball is very hook/set with the drill it has on it, so as long as I didn't belly it or pull it terribly, I got it to the pocket with immense forward roll.

Jess

Author Topic: 24 Foot Sport oil pattern. (Read 10426 times)

hotshot187

24 Foot Sport oil pattern.

imjouster

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azus

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hotshot187

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Mvpbowler

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Walking E

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Joe Jr

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azus

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dirtbikebowler

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TWOHAND834

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gnlover16

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stanski

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JessN16

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stanski

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JessN16

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