Post by: hotshot187 on July 25, 2006, 10:26:33 AM
Edited on 7/25/2006 6:21 PM
Post by: imjouster on July 25, 2006, 06:41:32 PM
Jeremy
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"Strive to be perfect, that is afterall the only way to become perfect."
"If you compare yourself with others,
you may become vain and bitter;
for always there will be greater and lesser persons than yourself.
Enjoy your achievements as well as your plans."
Taken from Desiderata
Proud user of Columbia 300 and Visionary Bowling Products
Post by: azus on July 25, 2006, 06:41:38 PM
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I like my coffee black, just like my metal.
Post by: hotshot187 on July 25, 2006, 06:46:35 PM
Edited on 7/25/2006 6:42 PM
Post by: Mvpbowler on July 25, 2006, 06:49:10 PM
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George Palumbo
Mvpbowler300@yahoo.com
Mvpbowler@aol.com
2002 True Amateur Challenge Champion
www.stormbowling.com
Post by: Walking E on July 25, 2006, 06:49:25 PM
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Official Member of the BrunsTrackColumStormHammEboRotoBuzzAMF Nation!
Post by: Joe Jr on July 25, 2006, 08:17:47 PM
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- Joe
Formerly Richard Cranium
www.Brunswickbowling.com
www.Brunswickinsiders.com
Edited on 7/21/2006 1:21 PM
Post by: azus on July 25, 2006, 08:19:54 PM
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I like my coffee black, just like my metal.
Post by: dirtbikebowler on July 25, 2006, 11:43:56 PM
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Taking over the lanes with Mother Nature!
Post by: TWOHAND834 on July 25, 2006, 11:52:27 PM
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Steven Vance
Former Pro Shop Operator
If anyone out there is worried about the scores being too high, try duckpin!!
Post by: gnlover16 on July 26, 2006, 12:51:34 AM
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Lane #1 and Storm for me
Lane #1
Blueberry
Emerald
Golden Nugget
Black Cherry Bomb(x2)
Cobalt Bomb
Storm
Paridigm
Ace(298)
Agent
Other Balls that I have
Brunswick Scorchin Inferno NIB
Brunswick Rampage drilled LH
16 lB Storm HRG
Post by: stanski on July 26, 2006, 04:49:01 PM
In any event, you need something low flare that creates a lot of length. Taking a very mild ball and placing the pin 6 inches from axis and high should be best. Pin axis will roll way too early for something like this.
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stanski
Post by: JessN16 on July 26, 2006, 06:45:19 PM
Otherwise, I'd get something reactive that was very polished and very mild. If you can find a real oldie like a Meteor Storm or one of the Track Sensor balls, then drill it pin way over the bridge, that would be my vote. Those balls had cores, and were very controllable. A Roto Grip Retro Resurrection has worked well for me on those conditions; just make sure you polish the crap out of it first.
Jess
p.s.: The buff information is also important to have; if it's 24 feet and then nothing, good luck. If it's 24 with a little buff, you have more options. If it were me, I'd be standing left and throwing as far right as I could go without burning up the ball. Down and in straight up the back would work but it wouldn't be my first choice.
Post by: stanski on July 26, 2006, 08:05:54 PM
quote:
Same as others have said. Unless you have revs, I wouldn't necessarily go with plastic as a first option unless you were using something like a XXXL or a polished urethane like a Visionary Slate Blue Gargoyle. Dry or not, the ball's gotta have a core.
Otherwise, I'd get something reactive that was very polished and very mild. If you can find a real oldie like a Meteor Storm or one of the Track Sensor balls, then drill it pin way over the bridge, that would be my vote. Those balls had cores, and were very controllable. A Roto Grip Retro Resurrection has worked well for me on those conditions; just make sure you polish the crap out of it first.
Jess
p.s.: The buff information is also important to have; if it's 24 feet and then nothing, good luck. If it's 24 with a little buff, you have more options. If it were me, I'd be standing left and throwing as far right as I could go without burning up the ball. Down and in straight up the back would work but it wouldn't be my first choice.
I'm going to disagree slightly and say that the core is not necessarily important. A core is meant to create entry angle and good roll into the pocket, not make the ball "hit harder," so his best option might be a 3 piece pancake. I'll also disagree and say that there is no way you can stand left and throw right on this condition, the reaction will be horrible and you will never get it out far enough and if you do, it will burn up and probably not come back. Instead, hard and fast (think norm duke at... can't think of the last tournament of the years name) here.
But, in this case, I would think a very mild reactive, something like a blue green centaur, would work better. The slate blue might be a good choice as well (not that i am a big visionary fan, but just giving you an idea of what ball types I would choose).
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stanski
Edited on 7/26/2006 8:02 PM
Post by: JessN16 on July 26, 2006, 10:12:36 PM
quote:
I'm going to disagree slightly and say that the core is not necessarily important. A core is meant to create entry angle and good roll into the pocket, not make the ball "hit harder," so his best option might be a 3 piece pancake. I'll also disagree and say that there is no way you can stand left and throw right on this condition, the reaction will be horrible and you will never get it out far enough and if you do, it will burn up and probably not come back. Instead, hard and fast (think norm duke at... can't think of the last tournament of the years name) here.
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stanski
Edited on 7/26/2006 8:02 PM
I think a core does more than just create angle; it also provides stability through the roll after the ball hits the pins. You can create big entry angles with even plastic, but if you don't have the right core shape you'll get deflection. A ball with its weight block out on the perimeter (pancake) will flare more than a ball with its weight concentrated in the center (light bulb), but it is also more unstable in its roll.
As for the stand left/throw right, it can be done *IF* you have a certain skill set. If you have good revs and speed and can get the ball to the breakpoint before it burns up, you can play that line on a very dry shot. To a point, I can, but I get to a certain point and then I'm more comfortable changing equipment and going back to the right again.
I agree with you about Norm Duke; another option on this pattern is to get something hook/set, get right, either suitcase the ball or go straight up the back, dial the speed up and pipe it in from whatever angle you can create. After the Bragging Rights tournament last week, we continued to bowl on the Reno pattern until we'd burnt it absolutely to death, and I ended up throwing my best game of the weekend by taking a pro-pin Paradigm, moving dead right and throwing straight up 5. This particular ball is very hook/set with the drill it has on it, so as long as I didn't belly it or pull it terribly, I got it to the pocket with immense forward roll.
Jess
Post by: ambi1 on July 26, 2006, 11:18:47 PM
quote:
I talked to two people at my house the pro shop owner and the employee that worked there. The employee said it was 28 foot and the pro shop owner told me it was 24 foot. Any who I bowled a NICE 123 on it and left.
Edited on 7/25/2006 6:42 PM
Could it be oiled to 24', buffed to 28'?
Urethane at the 1st arrow area, or suitcase release with a mild reactive from left to right. Would you know the heaviest volumes??
regards
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DARK BEER IT IS THEN!
Post by: TWOHAND834 on July 26, 2006, 11:27:16 PM
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Steven Vance
Former Pro Shop Operator
If anyone out there is worried about the scores being too high, try duckpin!!
Post by: ChrispyBrownies on July 27, 2006, 12:15:30 AM
I ended using my smokin inferno and playing up 1st arrow while taking many revs off my normal medium rev release.
my SI drilling pattern is under the ball reviews.
I averaged 193 overall
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Its hard to play with an inferno and not get burned. Last time I threw my inferno, the opposing bowler definitely got burned.
MY INFERNOS WILL SMOKE YOU!!!
Post by: stanski on July 27, 2006, 03:14:25 PM
quote:
A B/G Centaur would be way too much for this condition. The cover would be way too strong. If you put the pin at 6 inches on a resin, you just conserve way too much energy and the backend would be uncontrollable unless it was a Scout. Unless you are a fairly straight bowler, something plastic or urethane at the most is going to be the best choice.
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Steven Vance
Former Pro Shop Operator
If anyone out there is worried about the scores being too high, try duckpin!!
This is probably where difference in style comes in, and why its very hard to recommend balls: for me, placing a pin like that creates an EXTREMELY mild backend reaction with a whole lot of length. Had a rhino pro x and a hot rod pro stock drilled like this, and they were relegated to only bowling on the dryest of patterns (obviously hooked more then plastic, but still could probably be used on something like this).
Maybe for me it would be possible, but for someone like you it wouldn't? I am pretty confident that something with a decently mild cover and a length drilling would work if i REALLY cranked up the speed and played outside. And from what I hear and have seen, the centaur has a pretty mild cover.
Charlie, are you sure that a ball with a weightblock on the perimiter will flare more? I'm not sure, but I seem to think that this really wouldn't make as much difference with flare (as most 3 piece balls have very low diffs). maybe I'm wrong though.
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stanski
Post by: some_kid on July 27, 2006, 03:31:31 PM
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\m/