Author Topic: a NEW way to attack Heavy Oil!!! (Read 4914 times)

Ric Clint · « **on:** December 31, 2003, 01:31:39 AM »

I think my friend just hit upon something... let me know what you think.

Yesterday my friend is throwing his Track SPELL (I have 2 of them also) which is a Higher RG ball so it naturally gets length just by the core alone.

Well, he takes a tip from another bowler and decides to sand it down to 320 grit with scotchbrite to see if it will work on a true FLOOD... well it does!!!

We couldn't beleive the backend of the ball on a Heavier Oiled shot like this!

Other guys were using SANDED down V2 Strong's, Super Carbide Bomb's, and Phenom's, etc (and it looked like they were all just weak around the corner even on a FRESH shot)... and this sanded Higher RG SPELL was out hooking all these other Lower RG balls on the backend EVEN on this FLOOD!!!

The theory:

Now I know that you can't really play for backend snap on Heavy Oil and that you need to just go after the "early roll" thing on Heavy Oil and play tight up the boards... BUT... I've heard all this stuff about these Lower RG particle ball losing too much energy and not having nothing left for the backend EVEN on Heavy Oil...

...so why not take a Higher RG particle ball and sand it down and use it on Heavy Oil???

See, the Higher RG core will give you a little more length and save more energy for the backend and the sanded particle coverstock will still give you the midlane roll (as if it were a Lower RG ball) that you need on Heavy Oil... and all this equals up to a powerful ball that hooks more on a Heavy Oil shot than some of these Lower RG particle balls that may just waist too much energy early on and not hook on the backend.

So do you see where I'm going with this???

It works!!!

RandyO · « **Reply #1 on:** December 31, 2003, 04:51:20 PM »

Faball Red Razor urethane. 320 grit factory finish. High RG core. A ball ahead of its time. And nobobdy believed me...

RackTheRipper · « **Reply #2 on:** December 31, 2003, 04:54:02 PM »

I battle heavvy oil by waking up 'cause we never see it around here.
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RacK

charlest · « **Reply #3 on:** December 31, 2003, 05:29:04 PM »

Ric,

FYI once you sand the cover to 320, you all but remove the RG aspect of the core from the picture. The flare will matter much more than how low or how high the RG of the core is. Surface rules drilling. It may be hooking more just because it's sanded so low PLUS it is a particle ball.

I must retract some of the above based on RandyO's experience, as stated below. I find it hard to believe, but since he has personally experienced that, and due to the nature of him and his history here on ballreviews, I accept that as fact. See my comments under Randy's post.

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"Just because you can do something does not mean you should do it."

Edited on 12/31/2003 9:40 PM

C-G ProShop-Carl · « **Reply #4 on:** December 31, 2003, 05:31:59 PM »

I tend to agree with charlest. If you sand any ball down enough it will work on a flood. Ric, try having your friend sand a plastic ball down to about 120, and watch it hook.

charlest · « **Reply #5 on:** December 31, 2003, 06:41:58 PM »

quote:
Yea, but do they carry?
--------------------
buzztracker

That depends on whether you have enough oil to handle the degree of sanding, so that the ball still retains enough energy when it hits the pocket. Only AFTER that is true does the angle of entry come into play.
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"Just because you can do something does not mean you should do it."

RandyO · « **Reply #6 on:** December 31, 2003, 07:29:33 PM »

The RG does make a difference. I've thrown sanded lower RG balls that hook much too early and have nothing left at the pin deck - hit like snowballs. The sanded high RG Razor pushed down the lane farther than anything else and began it's movement farther down the lane, giving it a much stronger hit at the pins. Examples - C300 Stingray, Blue Hammer, Sanded Black Hammer - all would start hooking early when sanded down to 400 grit or earlier. The Razor did not. The RG does make a difference. I suspect a ball like the Ebonite Gyro urethane particle would be similar. Pull out an old Blue Hammer and drill up a 3 piece urethane, sand them both to 320, and see what we're talking about.

charlest · « **Reply #7 on:** December 31, 2003, 08:40:21 PM »

RandyO,

Maybe one day I'll be able to try it. As of this moment in time, I can't even imagine seeing enough oil to use anything sanded to 320 grit. I am inclined to believe when there's that much oil and you're using such a sanded ball, the RG has less and less influence. However, that is just a belief; in practice I will take your word for it.

On heavy oil the roughest I have used is 1000 grit and 1200 grit on stronger resin solids. Back in the days of short oil and urethanes I barely ever able to use a Blue Hammer I had bought. It was all but useless on 99% of all conditions I saw. The one I had wouldn't polish up for no amount off money, but that's another issue.
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"Just because you can do something does not mean you should do it."

Edited on 12/31/2003 10:39 PM

htotheizzo3561 · « **Reply #8 on:** December 31, 2003, 09:12:48 PM »

The Granite Gargoyle from Visionary is 320 sanded out of the box. But they claim that the 600 sanded Burgandy Gryphon hooks more.

What is the lowest grit possible for a bowling ball? 320 is there anything lower

RandyO · « **Reply #9 on:** December 31, 2003, 09:32:09 PM »

Unfortunately, there is no rule that I'm aware of that limits the grit you can use when sanding a ball. I've heard that some PBA members take out a 120 or 240 grit sanded ball solely for the purpose of burning up an area in the oil pattern prior to match play in order to create additional 'area'. Although I've thrown the Razor at 320 grit when I first got one, I don't throw anything that's rougher than 400 grit.

channel surfer · « **Reply #10 on:** December 31, 2003, 11:05:32 PM »

quote:
If I remember right, there was a rule that a ball could not be sanded below
220 grit. At least that is what someone told me, but I never went to the rule book.

Dal

Sure its not under 320?? hmm... Im gonna go check real quick.

ON EDIT: COULD NOT FIND IN ABC RULE BOOK ABOUT THE LOWEST LEGAL SURFACE GRIT
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ASK A PRO:http://csbowling.vze.com/atp.shtml

www.bowlersdream.com - save an additional $3 off any $100 order by simply typing in CSB into the coupon code area at checkout.

Edited on 1/1/2004 0:11 AM

Ric Clint · « **Reply #11 on:** January 07, 2004, 03:45:24 AM »

quote:
I think the point Ric was trying to make is the type of ball to be sanded. If one takes an already aggressive ball with a low rg and sands it, the result might be that the ball would burn up too quickly, whereas take a high rg ball and sand it, the ball should get farther down the lane saving energy, but still have enough friction to turn the corner.

Is that right Ric? Bones

YES!!! That's EXACTLY my point!!!

LuckyLefty · « **Reply #12 on:** January 07, 2004, 04:42:47 AM »

Interesting discussion as Ric and I have talked quite a bit about the Spell!

It is a big backend ball with lots of differential.

Usually gets down the lane pretty well if sanded in the "Normal range" of 600 to 1000.

I've had many interesting experiences on heavy oil particularly on the left where sometimes they really like to play the FTL game(Flood the lefties").

One tournament was set up to keep the lefties out of advancing. Out of 1300 entries two lefties barely advanced to a semifinal of 150 and both were PBA tourists. One a winner.

So wet that most lefties were just pointing up 6 and 7. I shot once with a standard pro Zone Azure and couldn't even wrinkle. Went back home came back with the Pro Zone sanded to 320 and could actually swing about a board and strike. Other lefties couldn't even swing a board off straight to the pocket. Had two 240 games in the set but we won't talk about the other game and just missed advancing. Not other lefties with a 200 in the squad.

Read about the same time about Mike Aulby using a ball around the same time at 220!

Then got the chance to bowl on an almost 50 foot shot that just almost had no backend both sides. Tried the above 320 particle and just couldn't really get the look. NO real hit or pop. Grabbed a polished Demolition Zone, moved up on the approach held the ball low, threw with lots of soft handed revs(for me) at about 12 mph and got some movement AND pop at the back and started striking!

Except for some mediocre sparemaking (which I always find difficult when this wet) would have advanced easily.

There are different types of wet patterns.

REgards,

Luckylefty
PS Ric is your surface all wood? I forget. I've found low rg particles work great on wet synthetics and then the above reactive was on wood!
PPS I know I've seen Bob Hanson talk about using polished reactives on heavy oil at times too!

charlest · « **Reply #13 on:** January 07, 2004, 03:11:58 PM »

I guess I didn't make myself clear re: a ball's RG adding length, sanded surfaces and floods. As in all things related to oil and a ball's surface and its drilling, everything is relative to some other factor. I mean how much the core's RG will affect the ball's motion when the ball is sanded so low as 320 (which is virtually obscene) will, itself, in turn, be affected by exactly how much oil is out there, the bowler's speed and Revs, and whatthe surface is that has just been sanded. The Spell is a pearl and it probably not a high load of particles, probably is a low load. I don't know for sure.

But it seems there are so many variables involved in this discussion, I think we are not going to reach any firm conclusions.

BTW Ric, as someone else of on one of your other "Heavy Oil Ball" threads mentioned, I wonder if you're really encountering TRUE heavy oil. Any chance of getting the number of units from the lane man. Then someone can tell us if this is really heavy oil.

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"Just because you can do something does not mean you should do it."

Strider · « **Reply #14 on:** January 08, 2004, 01:48:02 AM »

quote:
sanded a tombstone to 120 for a tourney for a chance to win a vette.
that was heavy oul,shot 645,just missed cut to top 3.

Don't you mean you polished it to 120? I thought those things came out of the box at 80 grit!

j/k Man, the Tombstone made cement look shiny.
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Penn State Proud

Author Topic: a NEW way to attack Heavy Oil!!! (Read 4914 times)

Ric Clint

a NEW way to attack Heavy Oil!!!

RandyO

Re: a NEW way to attack Heavy Oil!!!

RackTheRipper

Re: a NEW way to attack Heavy Oil!!!

charlest

Re: a NEW way to attack Heavy Oil!!!

C-G ProShop-Carl

Re: a NEW way to attack Heavy Oil!!!

charlest

Re: a NEW way to attack Heavy Oil!!!

RandyO

Re: a NEW way to attack Heavy Oil!!!

charlest

Re: a NEW way to attack Heavy Oil!!!

htotheizzo3561

Re: a NEW way to attack Heavy Oil!!!

RandyO

Re: a NEW way to attack Heavy Oil!!!

channel surfer

Re: a NEW way to attack Heavy Oil!!!

Ric Clint

Re: a NEW way to attack Heavy Oil!!!

LuckyLefty

Re: a NEW way to attack Heavy Oil!!!

charlest

Re: a NEW way to attack Heavy Oil!!!

Strider

Re: a NEW way to attack Heavy Oil!!!