Didn't really find any good vids regarding pad pressure when sanding a ball, but I did find this old post here on BR that was from a study that BTM did.  It deals with pads, application technique, and how that affects the ball surface.  Pretty interesting.  Here's a link to the post.
http://www.ballreviews.com/coverstock-preparation/anybody-read-the-btm-article-on-surface-article-inserted-t308227.0.html

How long does an Abralon Pad last?  Seems like I only get a few uses out of mine.  I have a spinner and if I use it on there to do my ball after a half-dozen times the pad is done.  I wet it before each use also.

4-6 uses if your careful.

Recently got a spinner and have a variety of different options for changing surface.  I will say the Abralon pads I have had the longest and seen how you can use them up pretty easily even by hand.  The NICE pads are nicer (and pricier) because they leave less sanding marks and so far haven't come close to wearing either the 1500 or 4000 I have out (supposedly 5x longer than Abralon but Abralon much better for sanding without a spinner imho).  When it comes to maximum longevity though if I had to guess pretty sure its going to by the Trizact 3000 sander disk (usually used for auto body work) I got off the internet to be the last I throw away.  Right up there will be the different color scotch brite pads (not the ones you clean dishes with, have to get from hardware store or internet, the brown 240 grit one cost me $10 for a single, but only use that one for a serious resurface).  Especially if you get a five pack like I did of the more commonly used colors (maroon, light grey which are cheaper).  Scotch brites do tend to leave sanding marks though so they are usually not ideal as your final step if you care about that.  Also I do all my sanding wet (or at least moist with a spray bottle).  It makes more of mess but does allow your pads to last longer from what I hear.

Any one know what material the cutting particles are in the abralon pads?  I was thinking of just using fine aluminum oxide polishing films I use for polishing fiber optic ends from my work, and it comes in all grit sizes.

Also, as far are pulling out the oil, is simple green or another cleaner as good as the Reacta foam and shine products?  95.5% isopropyl alcohol any good/bad?

A lot of times, things like these are sold for less money under other names, and company just repackage it and charge more for the same things.

Any one know what material the cutting particles are in the abralon pads?  I was thinking of just using fine aluminum oxide polishing films I use for polishing fiber optic ends from my work, and it comes in all grit sizes.

Also, as far are pulling out the oil, is simple green or another cleaner as good as the Reacta foam and shine products?  95.5% isopropyl alcohol any good/bad?

A lot of times, things like these are sold for less money under other names, and company just repackage it and charge more for the same things.

I initially bought a quart of Monster Tac (seems water based) and that is what I use at the lanes on all my expensive balls and the balls I drag out every now to roll just to keep them from sitting too long.  I do use regular old 91% iso alcohol at the lanes (bought cheap 4oz plastic spray bottles to hold) on my (new) Blue and Burgundy hammers which are my work horse balls.  It does work awesome to remove oil and belt marks and seems to be as effective as the Monster Tac (and unlike simple green never have to mix or worry about a film).  My only worry is perhaps it might dry out the cover stock (possibly make more brittle?) but if the balls are in the oil several times a week like mine are and each cost less than $100 new no point in spending $1 an oz on cleaner.  The thing I really like about rubbing alcohol is being able to spray liberally and not worry about cost.  I use simple green and water when resurfacing or cleaning with my spinner because friction and alcohol as well as an big electric motor right there just sounds like a bad idea and the Monster Tac is hideously expensive.  Going to start using Clean and Dull periodically as well.  When I use up the Monster Tac probably not buying more and will just use iso on all my balls.  From what I understand as long as you use the alcohol religiously at the lanes and hit your balls with C&D at most every 15 games you don't need to worry about using the rejuvenator but we shall see.   

Some people will degrade them... as a 1000 pad wears, make it a 2000 pad...as a 2000 pad wears, make it a 3000...etc...

I get about 10 uses out of a pad....you may be pressing too hard....and use a ton of water with pads....

Finally got some C&D today and its official as far as I am concerned that only abrasive pads remove true track marks.  C&D is just another surface cleaner (citrus based cleaner gel) that doesn't magically remove oil from deep in the ball (towel had nothing on it after cleaning).

Clean'N Dull has been used by many on this forum for years, I myself have used it since the days when it was under the original A.P.P. banner.

It is one of best cleaners on the market and one of the few that penetrates and removes oil (oil track lines as can be seen below) from the cover of a ball.

oil track lines soaked into the cover:


What it does not do is remove track wear, that has to be removed by abrasives.

(The name is misleading, a lot players think it means it dulls the ball like a abrasive but it doesn't. The original marketing just meant it to mean it leaves dull balls dull it doesn't change the surface.)


Clean'N Dull Used with a proper ball maintenance regimen can eliminate or at least reduce the need for oil extractions.

Using it once a week is not a hard and fast rule. How often you use it, depends on the conditions you bowl on and your personal cleaning regimen.

Yes it's expensive, but a little goes a long way.

Rubber marks alcohol will get but C&D sure didn't take out the oil tracks on my Blue Hammer and I followed the directions and even went a full minute a side on my spinner.  Heck I haven't even been able to remove them with reacta shine either and its abrasive (edit:  actually I used Black Magic XL instead now I think about it which is supposed to clean and polish but no abrasive).  The only thing that removed them was maroon scotch brite but they came back very quickly.  Something about that ball and that weird urethane mild reactive mix in the cover stock just brings tracks out quicker than any ball I have ever seen.

1. Don't use C&D with a spinner. People have had strange results doing that. Apply it by hand, using a rubber glove to protect your skin, let it sit on the ball slowly rubbing it on the surface for about 45 seconds per side. Keep the side wet with C&D, do not let it dry. Then remove it with a damp paper towel. Then remove the dampness with a dry paper towel. Then do the other side. Those are the instructions from the original manufacturer, APP, Advanced Polishing Products.

2. C&D will remove any and every oil mark. Period. End of story. Like Aloarjr, I have used it since day 1. There is no oil it will not remove from a bowling ball . So what you had was not an oil  "mark".