Can someone explain the physics of how more axis rotation creates more skid and length before the ball makes a move toward the pocket?

It's the same idea as a car going around a turn on a wet/icy road. If you step on the gas hard, a rear wheel drive car will fishtail and possibly spin out where a front wheel drive car will skid in a straight line instead of turning.

Low axis rotation means the ball isn't going to move much for you and will skid far. 

Low axis rotation doesn't mean the ball will skid farther. The lower your axis rotation is, the closer the ball is to being in a forward roll (which is 0° of rotation).

The ball will have a more even response, better for the over/under. It's good on heavier oil, because it allows the ball to read the lane earlier not skid.

The more axis rotation you have up to maximum rotation (90° of rotation) on the other hand will provide you with more skid downlane, but it will also give you a more violent reaction to dry boards.

Can someone explain the physics of how more axis rotation creates more skid and length before the ball makes a move toward the pocket?

 Not really explaining the physics of it, but think of it like this. The more axis rotation you have, the further the ball has to go to get into a roll.

 Skid, hook, roll.

 In the skid phase, the ball is turning in a different direction than it is moving down the lane (speed is the directing force at this point)

 In the hook phase, the balls downlane speed starts to decrease due to friction, and the ball begins to lose axis rotation. It gets closer and closer to losing its axis rotation.

 In the roll phase, the forces of speed, rotation, and friction have come together to create the roll phase, in which the ball has lost some of its downlane speed, allowing the rotational friction to overtake it as the main factor in ball direction (reaction).

 Now, two demonstrations.  Take two bowlers who, due to all other factors, end up with a rolling vector of 40 degrees in relation to the lane surface. Both bowlers balls will reach the roll phase at that point.

 HOWEVER, the first bowler has 75 degrees of axis rotation at the start, and the second bowler has 85 degrees of axis rotation.

 With 85 degrees of rotation, the second bowlers ball has further to go to reach the 40 degrees. If all other factors are the same, the second bowlers ball will naturally take longer to transition to the 40 degrees, thus causing it to skid slightly further than bowler ones ball will.

 Bowler ones ball only has to go from 75 degrees to 40 degrees (75-35=40), while the second bowlers ball has to burn off 10 more degrees of axis rotation before it rolls (85-45=40).

 Lots of other factors come into play, but this is the simple explanation (sort of).

I found this link to be very useful when it comes to changing your axis rotation.  I have played around but found with my low revs and my style my optimum reaction for both my spare (use plastic/urethane that naturally goes very straight for my style regardless) and strike ball is to follow Norm Duke's advice and follow through my target forward (not up) with both my index and middle finger in a V with my pinky tucked in and before doing so the ball weight resting between the two (index and middle) with a spot between the two being my focus.  I know many on here focus on say their ring finger as they tend to naturally have the revs and need more control.  Will take experimentation to see what works best for you and eventually the versatility to use what you need for the occasion.


https://cmgbb.wordpress.com/2008/04/03/axis-rotation/