Many of the well season pros have maybe 2 main layouts that they use on most of their equipment. 

When you are familiar with your ball speed, rev rate, tilt, axis rotation and have a good idea of what you'll be bowling on, one or two layouts with surface changes as necessary will cover all but the crazy conditions.

Many of the well season pros have maybe 2 main layouts that they use on most of their equipment. 

When you are familiar with your ball speed, rev rate, tilt, axis rotation and have a good idea of what you'll be bowling on, one or two layouts with surface changes as necessary will cover all but the crazy conditions.

I dislike this logic.  Pros can get away with 2-3 layouts because they are masterful at adjusting their reaction by altering speed, release, etc (and sometimes all at the same time).  Us mere mortals typically don't have that luxury.  For us, getting the right layout on the ball to match what we want it to do and what conditions we want it to do it on is more critical.

Everybody wants a ball that will go long and hook, however, that sort of logic is not very effective if you bowl in several different houses and/or tournaments.  The normal accepted theory of a ball arsenal is that you vary the drillings so as to accommodate whatever lane condition you may come across.  A decent arsenal is considered to be 6 balls, with one being a ten pin or pure spare ball.  I typically carry five for the 3 houses I bowl in. Not all of the houses pay attention to lane dressing and you might get 43 foot one day or 39 foot the next or they decide to change grades of oil.  Finally, the weather and air conditioning have a large effect on the conditioner; it dries out faster or stays firmer.  Too many variations to stay with one layout.  That's why golfers have 14 clubs.  some to go long or some to go short. You don't always need a ball to break 25 boards.

The further I stray from my "benchmark" lay out, the more condition specific the ball gets...  Cover strength and surface finish dictates almost 70% of the reaction

Condition specific is not a bad thing on tougher lane conditions.  If you are only bowling house shots, then I agree that it matters less. 

I realize 70% of the reaction is cover and surface.  That doesn't mean you should discount the other 30% completely.  30% is a sizable chunk. 

IMHO which I know is limited (: but I would suggest/recommend 3....one for length, one for earlier reaction and one for medium...or use a stable-medium amount of flare layout, adjust adding a weight hole to control how the ball slows downs...and then adjust the surface...most bowlers think more flare is better and more times than not many bowling balls that either become non-responsive or condition specific have too strong a layout...weight holes are as much of a tool as the initial layout

Quote from: J_Mac on May 08, 2013, 12:14:32 PM

The further I stray from my "benchmark" lay out, the more condition specific the ball gets...  Cover strength and surface finish dictates almost 70% of the reaction

+1000000000000000000000000000. Layouts are nice but weight hole manipulation will be more of a key. ...

Please explain how weight holes are more important than "layouts".
I do not understand this statement.

Example:
Ball is benchmark type of design, symmetric core.

Pin - 3" left of grip center, CG - in grip center.
PAP - 5" over, 3/4" down.
Bowler is right handed, rev rate & ball speed matched, 12 degree tilt, 45 degrees rotation.
Drilled top weight is .5 oz.
Drilled finger & thumb weight is 0 oz.

What weight hole will make this ball react "normally"; i. e. will provide an even arcing reaction on true medium oil?

3" left of center? 0 Finger and thumb?? Put 500 grit on it and hope it turns the corner. Lol!