win a ball from Bowling.com

Author Topic: Ball Drilling Question  (Read 6378 times)

Zanatos1914

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2376
  • Success is achieved by failure
Ball Drilling Question
« on: May 08, 2013, 10:35:54 AM »
Well yesterday I happen to be in the pro shop with a friend and I was suggesting how he should get his balls drilled because to me it doesn't make since to get all your balls drilled the same...  This new dude in the pro shop said he has all his balls to go long and hook - does this make since or am I just crazy...

Is anybody else following this same logic.....

 

JustRico

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2652
Re: Ball Drilling Question
« Reply #16 on: May 08, 2013, 07:44:42 PM »
As I stated earlier...too many times the flare is not managed properly and adding a weight hole is futile....use more flare manageable or controllable layouts and adjust the surface and use weight holes to manage flare also...surface at least 70%...
Co-author of BowlTec's END GAMES ~ A Bowler's COMPLETE Guide to Bowling; Head Games ~ the MENTAL approach to bowling (and sports) & (r)eVolve
...where knowledge creates striking results...
BowlTEc on facebook...www.iBowlTec.com

Rightycomplex

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1250
Re: Ball Drilling Question
« Reply #17 on: May 08, 2013, 08:00:23 PM »
[quote ]
3" left of center??????? 0 Finger and thumb??????????? Put 500 grit on it and hope it turns the corner. Lol!

So, I assume you retract leprevious statement about layout superseding weight hole in order of importance in drilling.
not really, and not that Im disagreeing with you. A weight hole is just a more permanent solution. But, even with standard pin by bridge cg in palm, I can manipulate weight to drill a hole, so long as I have some to play with. You are referencing an extreme case in which will never exist normally. If I take two identical balls and drill them the same with no hole and I decide to put a hole in one later, I can drill deeper in fingers or thumb to create weight either way, as long as I have some side.

this is however beside the point because I can put 500 grit on a plastic ball and get it to hook and strike consistently. All I'm saying is a swiss army knife of equipement may not be the best option for everyone, especially when youre only bowling on THS of different volumes. Determine your benchmark and understand the strengths and limitations of the equipment you throw. Manipulate surface where necessary. 
James C. Jones
Orbdrillers Pro Shop Holiday Bowl
Chester, Va.

Hammer Regional/Amateur Staff Member

www.facebook.com/orbdrillers
Orbdrillers.com
Hammerbowling.com

Brickguy221

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 9918
Re: Ball Drilling Question
« Reply #18 on: May 08, 2013, 08:23:29 PM »
Well yesterday I happen to be in the pro shop with a friend and I was suggesting how he should get his balls drilled because to me it doesn't make since to get all your balls drilled the same...  This new dude in the pro shop said he has all his balls to go long and hook - does this make since or am I just crazy...

Is anybody else following this same logic.....

I have 3 balls drilled although not exactly the same, very-very-very close to the same ( Nexxxus ... Versa-Max ... Meanstreak ... Gamebreaker of which I am retiring ) and each works on different conditions and all work great for me, so it is possible to drill several balls the same and usable on different conditions.

Maybe this is not true for everyone, but it is for me.
"Whenever I feel the urge to exercise I lie down until the feeling passes away"

charlest

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 24524
Re: Ball Drilling Question
« Reply #19 on: May 08, 2013, 09:04:03 PM »
[quote ]
3" left of center??????? 0 Finger and thumb??????????? Put 500 grit on it and hope it turns the corner. Lol!

So, I assume you retract the previous statement about layout superseding weight hole in order of importance in drilling.
not really, and not that Im disagreeing with you. A weight hole is just a more permanent solution.

More permanent than the actual pin layout?
Of course not.

Quote
But, even with standard pin by bridge cg in palm, I can manipulate weight to drill a hole, so long as I have some to play with. You are referencing an extreme case in which will never exist normally.

I just did that to prove the untenability of your statement, that the weight hole is more important than the drilling/layout. The weight hole will only modify the original layout, that is the pin & the CG/PSA positioning, just as a layout will only modify the original design of the ball..


Quote
If I take two identical balls and drill them the same with no hole and I decide to put a hole in one later, I can drill deeper in fingers or thumb to create weight either way, as long as I have some side.

this is however beside the point because I can put 500 grit on a plastic ball and get it to hook and strike consistently. All I'm saying is a swiss army knife of equipement may not be the best option for everyone, especially when youre only bowling on THS of different volumes. Determine your benchmark and understand the strengths and limitations of the equipment you throw. Manipulate surface where necessary. 

Thus, the importance of the initial layout/drilling with respect to the surface chosen. The two are the essence of the ball reaction based on the original design TOGETHER with the bowler release/delivery specs TOGETHER with the oil pattern, TOGETHER with the lane surface. That IS the ball reaction.

The weight hole only modifies the drilling. period.
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

kidlost2000

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5789
Re: Ball Drilling Question
« Reply #20 on: May 08, 2013, 09:10:59 PM »
If you have drilled a lot of bowling balls you will learn eventually that it is all about what the ball is intended to do followed by the condition and the bowler as to what will happen.

If you take 5 different bowling balls and drill them all on the exact same layout they will not all roll the same. It just doesn't work that way. I use 3 to 4 different layouts at most with the pin to pap being a little different depending on the ball and starting specs ect. It is pin up, pin down, pin even with fingers and the Rico layout. The pin to pap can range from 3" to 6" for each layout.

The balls intended designs and the surface will be the biggest difference over all when combined with the bowler and the condition.
…… you can't  add a physics term to a bowling term and expect it to mean something.

JustRico

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2652
Re: Ball Drilling Question
« Reply #21 on: May 08, 2013, 09:19:04 PM »
It also depends on the amount of friction side to side as well as down lane...the more the condition has built in friction or typical house shots...the less difference you'll see with balls as well as layouts...
Co-author of BowlTec's END GAMES ~ A Bowler's COMPLETE Guide to Bowling; Head Games ~ the MENTAL approach to bowling (and sports) & (r)eVolve
...where knowledge creates striking results...
BowlTEc on facebook...www.iBowlTec.com

charlest

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 24524
Re: Ball Drilling Question
« Reply #22 on: May 08, 2013, 09:59:32 PM »
If you have drilled a lot of bowling balls you will learn eventually that it is all about what the ball is intended to do followed by the condition and the bowler as to what will happen.

If you take 5 different bowling balls and drill them all on the exact same layout they will not all roll the same.

BINGO!
Give the man a prize!! He sees the absolute, the bottom line.


Quote
It just doesn't work that way. I use 3 to 4 different layouts at most with the pin to pap being a little different depending on the ball and starting specs ect. It is pin up, pin down, pin even with fingers and the Rico layout. The pin to pap can range from 3" to 6" for each layout.

The balls intended designs and the surface will be the biggest difference over all when combined with the bowler and the condition.

The surface combined with the drilling will, or better yet, will have THE POTENTIAL to modify the basic ball reaction designed into the ball (coverstock + core).

My point is made, after all.
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

kidlost2000

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5789
Re: Ball Drilling Question
« Reply #23 on: May 08, 2013, 11:39:09 PM »
I currently have three similar balls on the same layout with the same pin to pap and x-hole locations. A Reax, a Paranormal, and a Burning Siege. All three have different reactions and shapes. The Reax is the biggest hooking and overall strongest. The Paranormal has the most length and backend recovery. The Siegs is in between the two.
…… you can't  add a physics term to a bowling term and expect it to mean something.

completebowler

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5491
Re: Ball Drilling Question
« Reply #24 on: May 09, 2013, 12:51:40 AM »
I go with a standard couple layouts and mix in some interesting variances from time to time just to experiment. On THS I almost always reach back in the bag for one of my standard layouts.

Surface is key, as others have pointed out. Weight hole plays a big factor. I also believe it has more effect than SLIGHT layout changes. A minor adjustment in layout angles or pin distance won't do as much as moving the hole from P2 to P4 or drastically increasing hole size.

I see too many people slightly tweak a layout and think it is a world of difference and other factors are really responsible for the different ball motion. But that is just my opinion.