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Author Topic: ball help and other help  (Read 1508 times)

Grouperdawg

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ball help and other help
« on: January 03, 2016, 08:00:45 PM »
I started bowling 2 1/2 yr ago when was talked into joining a league.  I bought a dark blue taboo and some cheap bowling shoes.  As some point I then bought a lucid

Fast forward to now and I know a little bit more about bowling and have second highest avg in a somewhat competitive league.  But reading reviews, etc on here a lot  of it I don't understand at all what people are talking about.  Drill layouts, boards, and a lot of bowling jargon that I have no clue about

I probably throw at medium speed and have been told I have a lot of Revs, I throw traditional way.  My league average is 195,  our lanes are very inconsistent.  One week can be tons of oil and the next super dry and who knows what pattern.

What I am finding now is that I have two balls that are almost identical which is no help.  I tried to get the lucid modified so it would go longer before it hooked,  they said the only thing they could do is polish it.

When it gets super dry,  it hooks hard left about a foot too early so I move way left.  Problem I have is that sometimes I start leaving a lot of ten pins or if there is oil near the gutter I can't find a shot that works.  The ball gets stuck in the oil and misses right or catches the dry and rips left.

I would like a ball that goes longer before it hooks.  Are there any modifications I can to do to my lucid that will make it carry longer besides just polish.  I don't want to touch the taboo bc I bowl pretty well with it in general.

Or do I need to just buy another ball like the pro shop said?  I heard the lock goes longer and the roto skid.

Also,  I would like to try throwing a backup ball for ten pins,  do you need a ball biased to spin that way?  When I try it with the taboo it starts to go that way but then peters out and straightens.

 

ccrider

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Re: ball help and other help
« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2016, 08:07:32 AM »
If you properly execute the back up ball, it will continue to hook left to right. No special drill is needed. Why not buy a cheap plastic to shoot your ten pins?

A good pro shop will step the surface up on your  lucid (500,1000,2000,4000) and add polish if more length is needed. This will give you more length and calm the backend down. I would try this before givin up on the ball.

Grouperdawg

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Re: ball help and other help
« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2016, 12:33:50 PM »
Thx for the help!  When you say step the surface up,  does that mean sanding?

I may get a cheap ball for tens,  one guy throws a backup ball and it just seems like he never misses

Metal_rules

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Re: ball help and other help
« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2016, 01:17:49 PM »
As stated I would get a plastic ball for 10 pins. You said the lanes are either very oily or very dry. Both of the balls you have are strong reacting pearls, so you don't have a ball for dry lanes, that would be another option to get a lower end ball for dry. Until you can do that, I would polish one, and the other I would  put some surface on it ( change the cover to a lower grit or dull it) at least this way you will have 2 options. Check with your pro shop on cover adjustments. They should know what to do for you.
There's two kinds of music METAL and bullshit!

ccrider

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Re: ball help and other help
« Reply #4 on: January 04, 2016, 01:45:16 PM »
Thx for the help!  When you say step the surface up,  does that mean sanding?

I may get a cheap ball for tens,  one guy throws a backup ball and it just seems like he never misses

Yes. Have then sand it starting at 500. then 1000 then 2000 then 4000. Try it without polish. If you want it to hook later, ad polish. If it is not hooking enough,  sand it with 2000, etc. You can buy a 1000 abralon pad and sand  it by hand lightly or more heavily, depending on how much you want to increase the hook.  The Sauce by Lane One is a polish that you can also apply by hand that does a pretty good job if you do not have a spinner. If you decide to sand by hand, just cover the entire surface lightly and evenly using the 1000 abralon pad. You can also get the same results using a burgundy scotch brite pad.  They are cheap and you can get them from most any store that sells automotive supplies.
 

Stepping the sanding as described gives you a much different reaction than going from 500 to 4000. The ball will hook less and be smoother on the backend stepping it from 500. 1000, 2000 and then 4000. 

Grouperdawg

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Re: ball help and other help
« Reply #5 on: January 05, 2016, 11:13:08 PM »
Ok got it,  thx for the explanation