Author Topic: Looking for a nice mid-priced ball (Read 2424 times)

Sn · « **on:** October 10, 2006, 02:04:25 AM »

I'm currently looking for a ball to play on medium-dry to medium-heavy conditions (versatile). However my budget restricts me to balls in the mid-priced lines only.

What I care most about is that the ball must have a decent hitting power. (Or do mid-priced balls never hit hard? I wonder)

Preferred brands: Storm, Roto Grip, Dyno-thane or Ebonite.

Many thanks!

Duke of Earl · « **Reply #16 on:** October 10, 2006, 12:28:03 PM »

Ebonite Whirlwind.......you should be able to get one with drilling for about $120.

Sn · « **Reply #17 on:** October 10, 2006, 12:54:58 PM »

Thank you Charlest.

Actually I am too lazy to update my profile. Still I am having a low ball speed, but the rev rate has increased a bit. Now I find it very difficult to use any heavy oil balls, and I usually use a Tropical Storm to play a 38-feet freshly oiled THS. So if I were to choose among the 44 and 357 Magnums, I suppose the 357 would be the better bet.

Another question: what are the effects brought about by dulling down + polishing a ball? You mentioned that they would suit low-rev low-speed bowlers more. Why?

Thanks again!

quote:
If he has low revs and low ball speed, I wonder if the pearl 357 would suit him; I think it wouldn't. I'm thinking the 44. Maybe the 44 dulled down + polish, If he's talking TRUE mediums.

charlest · « **Reply #18 on:** October 10, 2006, 01:06:04 PM »

quote:

Another question: what are the effects brought about by dulling down + polishing a ball? You mentioned that they would suit low-rev low-speed bowlers more. Why?

Low rev bowlers need stronger balls than average. I didn't imply you need and oiler, but the 44 is for medium + oil and the 357 is more for medium - (a little bit) of oil.

Low speed bowlers generally need some help getting the ball thru the heads and into the midlane to allow the ball to do "its stuff". So with the lower rev bowler needing a stronger (read earlier lane grabbing) ball, he/she also needs the ball to get past the heads cleanly so as not to lose all its energy.

So, the 2000 grit (stock surface) on the 44 magnum MIGHT (I repeat), might lose too much energy in the heads and start its hook cycle too early. To prevent this or better wording, to counter-balance this, one could sand it down to 600 or 800 grit and then put a light coat of polish on it. The polish helps it get thru the heads and somewhere into the midlane before it starts hooking. The actual sanding grit level PLUS the amoutn of polish is a balancing act for the bowler's release and ball speed.

Because there are so many variables invovled, to start with, one makes the best educated guess they can (either the driller or the bowler or the coach should do this) and then takes it back to the shop to make follow-up adjustments, as needed.

--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

shelley · « **Reply #19 on:** October 10, 2006, 01:12:09 PM »

quote:
Another question: what are the effects brought about by dulling down + polishing a ball? You mentioned that they would suit low-rev low-speed bowlers more. Why?

The grit under the polish still affects length and backend, just as if it were sanded. Some polishes have abrasives in them to leave the ball at some approximate grit under the polish. Storm's Step 1, 2, and 3 polishes are like that. Some polishes don't have a grit in them, and the surface underneath remains the same. Brunswick's Factory Finish is grit-less.

If you were to simply apply a polish to the 44 Magnum, you'd end up with a high-grit polished ball. It starts out at 2000-grit sanded, and even with abrasive polishes, you'll have a high-grit surface under the polish. Might be too over/under. By bringing the surface down to, say, 400-800-grit, then polishing, you'll smooth out some of the backend and restore some control.

SH

Sn · « **Reply #20 on:** October 10, 2006, 01:24:55 PM »

Polishing the ball adds length. Bring down the grit number under the polish would restore the backend hook. So the net result is that the ball would "go longer" and "snap harder"? It is what most bowlers want! Should all bowlers be doing the sanding + polishing on their balls so that they retain most energy and still hooks? Perhaps it is a very stupid question. But I need to clear things up.

And a high-grit surface under polish would cause over/under reactions? I thought a ball would never hook with that. How come sanding it before polishing would reduce the problem? (Maybe another stupid question)

Thanks!

alcornel · « **Reply #21 on:** October 10, 2006, 01:26:08 PM »

I would suggest the Storm Pyro.

I got this ball becuase it is verstile on a variety of lane conditions. As the BTM review said "The particle pearl cover allows the Pyro to handle a wider variety of lane conditions."

I really like mine when breakdown occurs. It isn't overly jumply like my solid reactives. I have also been able to use it from Med-Dry to Med-Oily
--------------------
Andy
Las Vegas, NV

http://members.bowl.com/FindAMember/memberView.aspx?ms=31013&mp=1560&s=2005-2006

shelley · « **Reply #22 on:** October 10, 2006, 02:03:10 PM »

quote:
Polishing the ball adds length. Bring down the grit number under the polish would restore the backend hook. So the net result is that the ball would "go longer" and "snap harder"? It is what most bowlers want! Should all bowlers be doing the sanding + polishing on their balls so that they retain most energy and still hooks? Perhaps it is a very stupid question. But I need to clear things up.

But "go long snap hard" isn't always the best way to score. On a fresh shot with clean backends, an angular, hockey-stick reaction can create more angle at the pocket, giving a higher strike probability. But when they break down and some of the oil carries down, the backends aren't so fresh and the reaction can be really hit-or-miss. Sometimes it finds a dry board a pinch early, sometimes that board's got oil on it and it slides too far. You may also have to play too far left for comfort.

For longer oil, conditions where there isn't a dry bounce area (like the US Open pattern and many other sport shots), or conditions where there's a lot of spotty oil downlane, smoother, more arcing reactions will be more consistent rather than over/under like angular hockey-stick reactions.

quote:
And a high-grit surface under polish would cause over/under reactions? I thought a ball would never hook with that. How come sanding it before polishing would reduce the problem? (Maybe another stupid question)

Higher grit sanding tends to give length and backend, lower grit levels give more midlane (or sooner) with tamer backends. Putting polish on a ball that's already got a high-grit finish can give too much length and backend to be manageable. It might skid too far, never reacting properly or it might have too much backend. By sanding it down to 400-800 grit before polishing, you give it more midlane than a higher grit sanding beneath the polish. The polish helps it get through the heads, just like charlest said, while the surface underneath gives it some midlane read and reduces the angularity in the back.

SH

BOWL119 · « **Reply #23 on:** October 10, 2006, 04:29:24 PM »

Alot of good ideas on here. Another line is the BVP line from BRUNSWICK. Great mid priced ball. Get alot of Bang for your buck with this line. My son has one and it works great.
--------------------
T.J.

BOWLING IS FUN NO MATTER WHAT YOU SCORE. BUT A 300 IS ALWAYS NICE.

STRIKE ZONE & PYRO. STAND 15 AND THROW 10 OUT TO 5 AND SMASH THE POCKET. AT LEAST THAT IS THE PLAN OF THE NIGHT...

Atochabsh · « **Reply #24 on:** October 10, 2006, 09:00:08 PM »

You have a Tropical Storm? That's entry level. Just about anything in the next price range is going to be better then a Tropical Storm. Even Tornados hit better then Tropical Storms, IMO.

But if you are using a Tropical Storm on a freshly oiled house shot at 38 feet, you're going to need to move to a different area on the lane to play with just about anything else.

I see that you have gradually gone up in weight on the balls you've used in the past. Are you seeing less ball speed now that you are at 15? Is 15lb too heavy for you maybe?

I would maybe suggest instead of a new ball, is some coaching that can teach you how to gain more ball speed and revs. You say you have a 14lb One. That ball should be doing all kinds of tricks on the lane. All these balls and notes on "didn't work here", "didn't work on this" that its beginning to sound more like a coaching issue. You may need more verstatility in your game so that you can get the best out of all these pieces of equipment you have bought. You can't just depend on changing balls for various lanes and transitions.

Erin

Sn · « **Reply #25 on:** October 11, 2006, 09:12:09 AM »

quote:
You have a Tropical Storm? That's entry level. Just about anything in the next price range is going to be better then a Tropical Storm. Even Tornados hit better then Tropical Storms, IMO.

But if you are using a Tropical Storm on a freshly oiled house shot at 38 feet, you're going to need to move to a different area on the lane to play with just about anything else.

I see that you have gradually gone up in weight on the balls you've used in the past. Are you seeing less ball speed now that you are at 15? Is 15lb too heavy for you maybe?

I would maybe suggest instead of a new ball, is some coaching that can teach you how to gain more ball speed and revs. You say you have a 14lb One. That ball should be doing all kinds of tricks on the lane. All these balls and notes on "didn't work here", "didn't work on this" that its beginning to sound more like a coaching issue. You may need more verstatility in your game so that you can get the best out of all these pieces of equipment you have bought. You can't just depend on changing balls for various lanes and transitions.

Erin

Thanks Erin.
When I stepped up from 14lb to 15lb equipments my ball speed kept more or less the same, but the rev rate has increased significantly. I don't think 15lb is too heavy for me, but usually I need a few more frames than using 14lb as warm up every night I bowl.
The 14lb One was a great ball and I shot my high game with it. I got more success with 14lb equipments but I just wondered if I still haven't get used to 15lb. I believe that when I get the hang of the 15lb balls I can perform better than using 14lb. This is just my belief. I could be wrong.

charlest · « **Reply #26 on:** October 11, 2006, 09:55:16 AM »

Sn,

Erin is right; it COULD BE a coaching issue. I can't say for certain.

Also shelley's summary is good. One important factor is, again, everything, ball, surface and release adjustments are all relative to the ball or the bowler. The combination has to be right.

You said:
"So the net result is that the ball would "go longer" and "snap harder"? It is what most bowlers want."

It does not necessarily make the ball more snappy. It DOES make the ball retain energy longer. The ball, with low ball speed, may be "burning up" early. Modifying the surface may not even bring into "snap" territory.

Originally, I was only suggesting this because your profile said you had low ball speed.

--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Noy · « **Reply #27 on:** October 11, 2006, 11:09:45 AM »

Track Equation or Hammer Doom
--------------------
Bowling Since March 2006 - "Get coaching, don't worry about it"...blah blah balh...Just answer the questions please

Arsenal:
Hammer Pain (1000 grit)
Hammer Black Widow
Track Equation
Storm Spare Ball

rhinotec · « **Reply #28 on:** October 11, 2006, 11:00:54 PM »

Brunswick; BVP Rampage
Ebonite; Big Time Pearl
Storm; Diablo

--------------------

When the pins start throwing stuff at me is when I'll quit bowling.

Author Topic: Looking for a nice mid-priced ball (Read 2424 times)

Sn

Looking for a nice mid-priced ball

Duke of Earl

Re: Looking for a nice mid-priced ball

Sn

Re: Looking for a nice mid-priced ball

charlest

Re: Looking for a nice mid-priced ball

shelley

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Sn

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alcornel

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shelley

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BOWL119

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Atochabsh

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Sn

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charlest

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Noy

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rhinotec

Re: Looking for a nice mid-priced ball