Author Topic: Battling a WET/DRY Pattern (Read 768 times)

Ramtart · « **on:** May 25, 2005, 05:43:26 AM »

Hi everyone, what do you guys have in mind in terms of choosing your equipment and layout in regards to encountering a Wet/Dry pattern.

My guess was maybe using a ball that is smooth of the dry.
From an equipment standpoint, I was thinking of a ball with a surface with about 1000 grit/matte (not sure what the diff is though).

Last week I was using a Polished Track Animal (Pin by ring finger and mb almost on VAL) and it was too strong off the dry. Granted, this ball is supposed to start up earlier, but there was enough oil to get the ball down. When the ball encountered dry at the last 15-20 feet, it just about kicked itself left! (I'm right handed)

Switched to a Polished Brunswick Ultimate Inferno (Pin above bridge and CG kicked out right about 1/2 inch and just below my midline). Ball got down the lane and I got a couple of feet more length, but it was still jumpy off the dry.

After moving and adjusting all I could with the other 2 balls, I Finally went to a ball that worked. A Storm Eraser (Pin by ring with CG kicked out and on midline) with the polished knocked off from a lot of use. For a ball that's supposed to start revving a little early, it fed down the lane well and did not "JUMP," on me like the other two Polished Coverstocks. I guess this goes to show that coverprep is pretty important. Funny thing, I never scuffed the Eraser, it just dulled itself from a lot of use hehe. Guess it worked out well by accident in the end.

I would like to be more prepared going into tourneys in the future. So in general, what do you guys like to do to combat a Wet/Dry? Which layouts do you prefer and which coverstock prep do you choose? Also, would an Pin/CG by axis be a nice drill to even the reaction of the dry?
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"Trust is a must or your game is a bust," Nelson Burton Jr.

"Heck Yes I Did!," Napoleon Dynamite

Edited on 5/25/2005 1:52 PM

livespive · « **Reply #1 on:** May 25, 2005, 02:00:52 PM »

I would go with a 0 or 25 degree layout, probably with the 1000 sanded.

http://www.rollrite.co.uk/secrets.php?id=9
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Eric T. Spivey, P.E.
Visionary Test Staff Member
http://www.visionarybowling.com
http://www.maysbowlingandbilliards.com

Nodsleinad · « **Reply #2 on:** May 25, 2005, 02:04:31 PM »

http://www.princetonbowl.com/CURRENT%20ARSENAL.htm

The Hybrid is drilled for Wet Dry. 300 shot 3rd week I used it.

Nod

janderson · « **Reply #3 on:** May 25, 2005, 03:11:53 PM »

quote:
I Finally went to a ball that worked. A Storm Eraser (Pin by ring with CG kicked out and on midline) with the polished knocked off from a lot of use.

There's your answer. On lateral wet/dry conditions, especially severe wet/dry, you'll generally have better luck with dull or particle equipment. Simply put, dull stuff will give you more hook in the oil to reduce the effects of the wet/under and will tend not to jump or snap off the dry/over.

Shiny stuff, which is generally more skid/snap will make things worse. Wet/dry already has skid/snap built in.

You can apply the same tenets to layouts. Layouts that promote length with snap, such as stacked leverage, are bad because they accentuate the wet/dry. Layouts that promote early roll with a controlled backend tame it down.

Finally, reducing axis tilt and/or axis rotation also works to help even out the reaction.
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J.J. "Waterola Kid" Anderson, the bLowling King : Kill the back row

Author Topic: Battling a WET/DRY Pattern (Read 768 times)

Ramtart

Battling a WET/DRY Pattern

livespive

Re: Battling a WET/DRY Pattern

Nodsleinad

Re: Battling a WET/DRY Pattern

janderson

Re: Battling a WET/DRY Pattern