Couple things.  Some manufacturers temperature ceiling for warranty purposes are 125, some are 140.  Taking the surface of the ball to 1000 or 500 before an oil extraction opens up the pores of the ball, allowing the oil to come out easier.  Storm brands and Ebonite brands soak up oil the quickest, with Storm being moderately high to Hammer being impossibly astronomical.  When I Detox, I get a moderate amount of oil out of 80% of Storm balls, but I get a TON of oil out of 100% of Hammer balls.  Brunswick brands and Motiv soak up very little and retain their reaction the longest with the least amount of maintenance by far.  Billy Orlikowski said at a recent seminar/workshop on some of their new releases that the Detox was also the safest and most efficient means of oil extraction, so if you have access to one of those, that will be your best option.  He DID say that normally he wouldn't recommend anything using water, because that the filler material between the core and the coverstock doesn't like water, but being that the ball is exposed to more water during a typical resurface than during a Detox treatment, and that a treatment exposes the ball to a higher temperature for far shorter a duration than with just dry heat based extraction, it's safer for the ball overall. 

I'm confused. Are you saying that submerging a ball for 45-60 minutes in hot water subjects the ball to less water than during a resurface? I use a fair amount of water during a resurface keeping the pads wet, but it takes me way less than 45 minutes to do a resurface. Also, how can Billy say that water is bad in general for balls because of the filler material, but it's OK for a Detox treatment. Either water is OK or it's not. And it you believe that the oscillation from the Detox has a positive effect on the oil removal, the hot water must make more "contact" with the filler material.

Its never been good for any ball to be soaked in hot wated unless your to tape up all the holes so the water dont soak into the filler Material.  I have always seen oil bleed out of all my 900 Global balls over the years and other ball brands with in a short amount of time. Like I said before, It helps if you take the ball out a couple of times while it is running and whip the ball to help remove some of the excess oil that the pads dont pick up.  my rejuvinator is set at 140 degrees and ive not had any issues what so ever with any brand of ball getting to hot while they are being de oiled and ive have yet to change the surface on any ball to help the ball bleed, to me thats just a waste of time and not called plus it makes more work 4 u getting the ball back to the finish it had before you started.   I run mine through the rejuvinator about every 2-3 weeks    Its a nice thing to have sitting around, The rejuvinators are not cheap but made my money back off of it with in the 1st year and a half