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Author Topic: More axis tilt, the good and the bad...  (Read 1768 times)

J_Mac

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More axis tilt, the good and the bad...
« on: June 07, 2009, 06:20:17 AM »
About a year ago I was using 15# equipment.  My PAP was 5 5/8" x 7/8", and my axis tilt was between 7 and 9 degrees.  Speed slightly dominated my rev rate.

Since then I've developed issues with my wrist and forearm, but mostly just the wrist.  Due to that, I dropped to 14# equipment.  Also went without inserts to narrow the effective bridge thinking that it would lessen the amount of stress on my hand and wrist.

After a sprained middle finger after the state tourney here, I've since went to a vacu-grip for my middle finger as well.

So in the past few months I've notice my ball reaction changing and after looking more closely I now have 11-13 degrees of tilt (perhaps more) with a PAP of 5" x 1 1/4".

I'm getting really frustrated with bowling on a most shots now since I'm getting a lot more over/under and am playing parts of the lane that I'm still not comfortable with.


Has anyone else made the transition from low axis tilt numbers to slightly higher numbers and seen the same thing?  If so, what did you have to do to fall back into a more comfortable routine on the lanes?

 

charlest

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Re: More axis tilt, the good and the bad...
« Reply #1 on: June 07, 2009, 04:46:02 PM »
Some ideas:

Are your balls now drilled for that PAP and that new tilt?

11-13 degrees are not even close to being radical. I had 20 degrees, and that's not even radical, and that caused some control problems but I used lower pins and sometimes 4000 grit matte surfaces instead of 1500 or 2000 grit polished finishes to counteract that.

7-9 degrees is almost a lack of tilt,for today's oil patterns and today's balls (This is synopsis of some pro coaches, not mine) and 11-13 degrees is better for an average to take advantage of today's conditions and balls.

I think you might also just re-think some of your balls, their surfaces and drillings, as well as how to play the lanes with the added tilt. 11 - 13 degrees is quite a good range, just not what you're used to.

Also that "up" factor, 1 1/4" is quite high. That may be the more troublesome aspect of the your new delivery. In fact, I wonder if the tilt measurement is not higher than you state. I've only seen a few people with that high an 'up' measurement. It seemed to make their delivery more over/under. I'd suggest double-checking the tilt again.
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J_Mac

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Re: More axis tilt, the good and the bad...
« Reply #2 on: June 07, 2009, 06:40:20 PM »
Since I was always a touch speed dominant I never really liked glossy polished equipment and I've started finishing stuff a little rougher than usual.

Even a modified Rico layout (pin higher than grip center) tends to require an inside line for me.  I just recently put a pin above my middle finger and I'm thinking that even with that I still have the MB in too strong of a position.

http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x16/madcelt2000/?action=view¤t=Picture.jpg

My next ball will probably be the new PK18 pearl Avalanche.  I was contemplating a pin up layout, but perhaps I'll look at putting it below my bridge.  

Jeff, with your tilt, did you ever find flare reducing holes useful?  


Cobalt Bomb

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Re: More axis tilt, the good and the bad...
« Reply #3 on: June 07, 2009, 06:45:32 PM »
Don't forget that most 14# equipment has higher RG and diff than equivalent 15#. That could be contributing factor to your issues.

charlest

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Re: More axis tilt, the good and the bad...
« Reply #4 on: June 07, 2009, 07:23:50 PM »
quote:
Since I was always a touch speed dominant I never really liked glossy polished equipment and I've started finishing stuff a little rougher than usual.

Even a modified Rico layout (pin higher than grip center) tends to require an inside line for me.  I just recently put a pin above my middle finger and I'm thinking that even with that I still have the MB in too strong of a position.

http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x16/madcelt2000/?action=view¤t=Picture.jpg

My next ball will probably be the new PK18 pearl Avalanche.  I was contemplating a pin up layout, but perhaps I'll look at putting it below my bridge.  



I like the idea behind that ball myself!!

Make sure your driller agrees with that concept for your current PAP.
But try it 3.5" - 4" pin to PAP.
(Also kicking the CG towards your PAP often helps get the ball into a roll erlier. That could help cut down over/under.)

quote:

Jeff, with your tilt, did you ever find flare reducing holes useful?  




That was past tense, "had". Currently, my release has less tilt. I have not yet measured tilt and PAP yet, though I have good idea about the PAP.

I have tried very few flare reducing holes. I generally don't use a lot of high flare balls, and didn't when I had that 20 degrees of tilt. I rarely used pins at or over the bridge. My PAP was 5" over, 0" up/down with some adventures into negative PAPs, 3/4" down.

FYI Flare reducing holes can be good for polished balls or pearls, because flare on polished balls often happens later resulting in more backend. On dull/matte balls, flare increasing woul dmake them less flippy, but earlier hooking.

I'd still worry/wonder about 1 1/4" up dimension of your PAP.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Edited on 6/7/2009 7:27 PM
"None are so blind as those who will not see."