You got out of the game just as the biggest ball revolution in the game occurred.  The resin enhanced urethane that was introduced in 1992 had a huge impact on the game in more ways than you may be aware.  First, the resin enhancement drastically increased the friction coefficient of the ball surface on the dry, without significantly impacting it on oil.  However this change also impacted how the lane changed as shots were thrown with the new balls.  The resin balls not only hooked more, they absorbed oil off the lane, and dried out the heads and the track at a rate unheard of prior to the introduction of the new balls. 

As a result of the above revolution oils have changed significantly to become slicker, and the volumes used have increased by almost double.  The average length the oil has also gradually increased from typically less than 35 feet to about 40 feet on house shots.   

What all this means to you in selecting balls for todays game is that to get anywhere near the reaction you got with aggressive urethane in 1991, you need a reactive resin ball.  I think these new balls will actually benefit you as a down and in player if you pick the right ball.  There is also still a place for urethane due to the absence of much oil outside second arrow on the typical house shot.  Lots of good equipment out there.  I would go with a strong reactive pearl.  Only experimentation will tell you how the urethane and the reactive will play off each other in your game.  The biggest issue with urethane due to the much higher oil volumes is the carry down factor which can really impact urethane quickly, but is much less a factor with the resin.  Again trial and error throwing both will tell you a lot.  Urethane will definitely let you stay more direct from outside second arrow, but the carry down factor really limits the effective adjustment you can make with the urethane.  The biggest advantage you will get from the resin is the ability to move in a bit and still get a strong reaction on the back end compared to what you can do with urethane. 

I haven't even touched on core technology which has also changed dramatically with the advancement of asymmetrical cores.  Without getting into a lot of detail, I would go with an asymmetrical pearl for you as a lower rev straight player.  It will give you more continuation as you move a little deeper with the pearl. 

In summary, I have drilled out hundreds of balls over the period of time you were out of the game, and there is still a lot of trial and error involved. Plus no two people throw the ball exactly alike so what works for someone else, even a straighter player may not work for you.   

Go to a Demo Day.  Then you can see first hand what has changed in 25 years.

For your style stated and where you like to play the lanes I would avoid the high end equipment and look at a mid performance ball and one a step down.

Like with Track for example a Legion solid and a Heat would be a good choice or Ebi Game Breaker/or MVP and a Cyclone.

This will get a lot more use a lot longer versus some of the high performance stuff…. Especially when playing up the boards. Most leagues do not see heavy oil.

Avabob said it the best. I've valued his insight in the time I've been in this forum.

An aggressive urethane ball of yesteryear (like my Faball Blue Hammer, Burgundy Hammer, or Columbia Black U-dot) is now nothing more than a good spare ball in most bowling situations. That's not to say it can't be used as a strike ball. But you are asking a lot from a ball that's not designed for today's oil patterns that have three to four times more oil volume than, say, back in 1990. Not to mention, most bowling alleys still used original wood surface when equipment like that debuted as opposed to today's synthetic lane surfaces.

I also agree with JohnP.  I would go with about any entry level ball, they are all good.  My go to is the Solid Rack Attack. It has a reaction like the urethane balls did in the past in today's conditions.