You didn't mention what kind of axis rotation and tilt you have, but if you can keep your hand more behind the ball on this pattern, it'll help. You want the ball to roll off that friction instead of jump. If you can get yourself lined up with your breakpoint around the 2-3 board, you will have a little hold room left and a little extra friction right, making it like a miniature version of a house shot. (Emphasis on "miniature." You still only have about 3-4 boards room at the breakpoint at most, and it will break down and get tougher!) Also, close up your angles. You will NOT be able to swing the ball and still score unless you have a ton of hand. People will try to move left and throw it out to the ditch, but they also will have poor carry and will really struggle just to hit the headpin on even the smallest mistakes. The key is to get right on top of that friction next to the gutter. Roll your ball right up the boards. And remember, at least on fresh oil, you need to be even further right than the 1st arrow.
I'm similarly a lower-rev guy with moderate speed. My best results on Cheetah and other very similar 35' sport shots have come with different equipment depending on the lane surface and who I'm bowling. On AMF HPL synthetics, I've done extremely well with a 4.25x3 pin down Mars sanded to 2000 abralon on fresh oil, and after the shot carried down some, I switched to a 5x5 pin up Prodigy with polish and tightened my angles up a little. Carry became an issue after making that change, but that's the nature of the pattern. On wood lanes, I couldn't get the Mars to come off the breakpoint hard enough, so I threw a 5x5 pin up Gravity Shift with surface (I believe around 2000 but lots of lane shine from throwing it for ages without touching the cover) and moved a board or two left to project it out to the breakpoint more. That worked very well until the lanes broke down and it stopped carrying, so I switched again to the Prodigy.