The house I do most of my playing in is a fairly dry, wood house.  It is often oiled before leagues, but it seems to dry up pretty quickly.  What do you like to pull out for dry, wood lanes?

Well, I have an old Red Hammer that I got about 5 years ago which was my first ball.  It's drilled conventional though so I'd have to get it plugged and redrilled.  Probably resurfaced as well.  (Has a nasty burn from a ball return.)  Would that do the trick?

Brunswick Power Groove-Inexpensive ball with a solid readable roll.I use the Smoke/Chrome version label drilled with great success on dry and toasted lanes.
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President and CEO Visionite Stormy Buzzwick LTD

It is sooooo hard for me to understand why anyone needs to get anything less than THE BEST dry Lane ball on the market, hands down, the XXXL from Lane 1.  Not only does it hit harder than ANY OTHER ball out there, its carry is unmatched, and it goes straight enough when needed for spares.  Can you say 2 balls in one, I think you can!!!  For the BEST dry lane ball, for striking and sparing, it's not rocket science...; XXXL!!!!

Dave
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Regardless of what the pins are made of, you can still SAW 'Em Up!  Mess with F.O.S. and get CUT like all the rest!!

Rack,

I find it hard to believe that it does not hit harder, as it has a weight block, which would make it impossible for it NOT to hit harder than any other plastic/polyester ball.  As for unpredictable, that is also hard to believe.  The hitting and carry power though, has to be greater due to the core.  Most plastic balls are just solid masses, that while they hit with the force of a solid object, they do not hit better or harder that the same solid object with a weight block at the center of that solid object.  If you can explain how a solid ball can hit harder than a solid ball with a mass of weight designed to create movement and more power, than I am all eyes.

Dave
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Regardless of what the pins are made of, you can still SAW 'Em Up!  Mess with F.O.S. and get CUT like all the rest!!

Saw,
A ball hits as hard as I throw it.We are knocking down pins here not walls.If you want to talk angle of deflection with your diamond cores I'm willng to listen.Just how hard do you think you have to hit a pin to knock it over.My kid's 8# house ball will knock 10 pins over if his angle of entry and deflection is right.Get a clue dude and don't buy into a ball makers hype.

Sorry to hijack this thread but I get so tired of this- hits like a bigger truck than yours- crap.And I'm not bashing the product,as I said I have the XXXL along with the Cherry Bomb,Black Cherry Bomb,Silver Diamond,Carbide and Super Carbide so I'm familiar with the core.

The Power Groove has a pancake core with two flip blocks it is not one solid piece.I believe your thinking of AZO who claimed that by using urethane for both the shell and core the ball fused into one solid mass for superior hit and carry.

When I recommend a ball it is because I've used it with success on the condition specified.I use mostly Dyno-Thane but did not recommend the Crisis or Barrage because I found the Power Groove to be a better ball in this case.

I'm sure there are many other balls that are excellent performers under these conditions but I only suggest equipment I have personal experience with.I only have used the XXXL,Power Groove,Scout,Barrage,Crisis,Messenger,Optyx,V2 Dry,White Dot, and Thunder Flash on dry lane conditions so I had to base my recommendation on my results with these.  

By the way,all balls mentioned in this post hit like a Mack truck loaded with 10 tons of bricks and have given me many 300s, best on the market, blah blah.... blah.
A real man needs only a Skull ball to amaze the chicks as he throws one thunderstrike after another.(for you Jeff)


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President and CEO Visionite Stormy Buzzwick LTD

Edited on 5/4/2005 8:23 AM

Dry / R

You can't beat free!!    He's a really great bowler and plans to try his luck in the Senior PBA when he meets the age requirement.  He has about a MILLION balls, so he's always looking to unload stuff on me.