For me and not the OP that posted this,
it's for flying back ends. When I reach my max at the 18 board shooting to about 10.
The oil line is fried between 10 and 16. Maybe spotty or I get too fast at 18.
When drinking, I drift a little more right so 18 is my limit.

With the Octane Carbon, I keep leaving a pin, like the 9 or 10 for a 180 best 1/2 way through. I did take the surface up to 2K last weekend in case I try it again. I just need to be a little better than the competition. Had a 162 G3 last week, finally missed a 10 pin after so many of them.

I'm not a strict Motiv Fan and open to others, but almost pulled the trigger on a Tank Rampage minutes ago. Friends say a Hot Cell, but not sure if I want to get a giant core rolling plus production was pushed back. I'm use to that gear core, revs up quick for me and gives a predictable path.

I hate shooting at weak 10's and buckets so I'd recommend a low-mid end reactive with a non flippy layout and remove the polish.  A BTU Pearl or Rhino should do the trick so that you can keep chasing the oil left, yet maintain enough hook and angle to carry the corners.

To answer the OP,

This is more of a layout, surface, plan of attack issue than just ball itself. Urethane is a hot item however it has its place and it isn't for every dry condition. No Urethane absorbs oil like Resins do, so oil sits on the cover from shot to shot to shot. As you throw it, the read of the ball gets longer. That's not good for Urethane as theyre designed to read the lane early. In a sense, youre taking the back of the lane out of play. The longer that reaction takes the less your ball will have. SO again Urethane has its place, especially if you have an enormous amount of hand or surface on it. However for those of use with less rev rate, I recommend carrying a couple or few of them and keeping the surface fresh if that's the game plan. They can strike a ton but IMO very high maintenance.

I often times recommend a layout change, something to emulate closely the Urethane shape with the oil absorption of the resins. For me my layout is 85x2.5"x45 with either a double thumb hole(if I want it to really stand up early and give up) or a hole on the midline if I want the shape to be more gradual. If I want less flare, I drop the pin to PAP to 1" to create a weaker reaction, same weight hole situation applies. Then I mess with the surface to fine tune. This is a way to throw bigger balls on dryer stuff without sacrificing carry. I have a few balls that have this layout that I love when friction is high or sport patterns where the they are tougher and tighter ratios.

These are only options.