I a trying to understand the lanes better, but I am having a tough time understand if the fronts are the issue or the rear is.

Our THS shot really moves in game one even for a slightly below ave hand. Many people miss left early in the night. I also see many shots that look good, but wham...left of the pocket!

The shop said bring something with shine this year which I did, but if I am a 1/2 mph slow it rips Brooklyn just like that or thru the nose.

I heard that these synthetic lanes have a touch of friction on the fronts which causes the ball to loose some skid which I have no issues doing. I also heard that they replaced the fronts in March this year and this is why the last few weeks, scoring soared.

Two weeks in, and they are back to where they were last year...ripping across.

How does one read the front of the lanes them self, because the rest of my team has no clue period on lane play and cannot help me.

Thanks TG

I think some definitions need to be gone over and some of these links will help the reader understand axis of rotation and axis tilt plus how they interact with the bowler and his/her ball layouts and ball surfaces used on specific lane conditions that will help rather than hinder.

Read...... how to get measurements your pro shop operator should be able to tell you all of these measurements so he/she can drill your equipment correctly for you.  http://wiki.bowlingchat.net/wiki/index.php?title=Proshop_Information#Bowler_Measurements_.26_Reference

You can also video yourself and get these measurements with the overlay in the bowlingchat.net wiki  http://wiki.bowlingchat.net/wiki/index.php?title=File:AxisTilt-Rotation-Overlay.png  http://wiki.bowlingchat.net/wiki/index.php?title=File:Rotationtiltball.JPG



A good topic to read on the effect of axis tilt and how axis of rotation works with tilt.  http://forum.bowlingchat.net/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=556  Matt Costa's responses are very good.

Generally what I see in these discussions is all about how specific layouts or equipment are going to help alleviate issues but in my little reality it's your physical game and the changes you can make that will make the most obvious changes.  But folks are always looking for the easy way out thru equipment rather than changes to their physical bowling technique that in the long run will make you a better bowler rather than try to purchase it thru equipment.  Don't get me wrong I enjoy a new ball as much as the next guy but money spent on coaching and able to change releases is way more important than equipment.

One other factor it's easier for most average bowlers to change AR on the fly rather than AT.  You are pretty much blessed with what AT you have but AR can be changed much more easily and that's why I don't understand with players that continually fight jumpy transitions off of the dry that they can not change some AR to lessen it.  I would guess that their ball fit is where the issue exists.  Pro's can change tilt but I haven't met to many average players that can change AT on the fly AR can be changed easily with some practice.

The Gom,

As to balls that are solids.  Much smoother in response to friction and often used when there is a harsh transition from oil to dry (ie no blend) when conditions are very fresh.  There are so many good lower differential (less flare solids out there).  And they are wonderful tools. 

My Sonix X solid diff of .18 ....this means less than 2 inches of flare!  Todays replacement the Rotogrip Shout diff of .025.  A Storm Hot Wire with smooth Accutread and a diff of .35 today's replacement the RotoGrip Rumble with similar diff.

These balls transition so much smoother and slower once finding friction than a strong assymetrical like the Roto Grip Cell, and the Hammer BW. 

Just as in golf not all clubs need to be drivers, tearing a golf course apart with a 3 iron off the tee is just as fun as tearing a short oil shot apart with my Sonic X solid!

As to assymetrics as my pro says, "on some of these short patterns one probably doesn't need assymetirics and that quick of a response to friction!"

The Gom, even the balls you are a listing are slightly weaker than your super strong stuff, in all reality if you were a golfer I would say you had a bag of Modern super powered drivers and maybe 3 woods.

The stuff I am using is delighting me.  Especially combined with my lessons and slightly changed roll for league patterns.  Thanks coach!  Oh I still love my stronger axis rotation for many long pattern tournies.  Last year with that roll I almost got to bowl for another mega prize!

Get a full bag and watch your scores soar, these companies today make great stuff!

REgards,

Luckylefty
PS realize that even with a ball reviews approved roll, many top bowlers in my area on the southpaw side are up to nearly 30 pins different (lower)on our local left handed quiz versus other houses they bowl on.  Fortunately due to some of the ball solutions above, I'm not one of them.

Jmerrill?

Regards,

Luckylefty

Scotts33

Again, you are spot on. It's awesome to have someone like you on this site. I can relate, am active on a golf forum and consider myself very helpful n certain areas and help members all the time over there.

Like my question to start this discussion, I at least know it's much more then just buying the latest greatest rock to roll.

I have not found anyone local who can or seems to want to give me my specs so I can learn about them, understanding them, and being able toy understand what my current strengths and weakness are and then attempt to improve on them.

I did a boot camp with a gold medal teacher. This was one of the main reasons why I paid for the boot camp as I thought that if I wanted anyone to provide me with specs, he was it. Yet, he drilled a ball for me and a gave me a video lesson but never gave me my stats even though I asked for it.

I am also working with another person locally that I thought would give me my specs for sure my specs for. Since is seemed to be a top driller I asked about my specs and my current arsenal and he watched me throw it, but again never measured me up.

I was planning to buy this ball from him and make him do my specs and then explain them to me before we drilled it up. He sorta knows the shot the I was asking about so I feel that will en up being good to help me out and learn.

But you are so right about people taking short cuts. I see all the time on the golf sites about getting a new driver with no understanding about their swing specs and what they mean. They only want the longest easiest driver and they want it to exactly this and do not understand that it is their swing that does not provide them with the results that they are seeking with no knowledge of path, angle of attack, spin ratio, launch angle on what is good and what is bad that makes all drivers bad for their swing. Quick fix syndrome

If I was a tournament player, I would be flying to someone good to get my specs if I could not find anyone locally. I am just a 2 league player who is gets into it and loves it and is after any info about bowling daily. Always trying to learn more and of course, see my average go up. I know that I can average over 200, just applying myself even more this year since as this will be my second year at this house and I know that it is more then just show up and throw into a wide 5 board area and get a strike. Felt I improved last year dealing with a house that really punished many of the players (-10 to -25 pins ave) that came from our past easy league shot. I dropped just a few


Thanks for the links, info and your help on this site. I wish I could see the pic about the clock reference from JJ article....to hard to understand without a pic for me.

Watching some ultra slow mo's on You Tube, to me it looks like many Pros ring fingers are at 10:30 at the bottom of the swing and rotate about 90 degrees to the opposite side of the ball.

It's BG...just another iPad miss type earlier

I love this post, The Gom, you are the man and have found the solution.

Change your roll and use all equipment over .50 diff.

Regards,

Luckylefty

Double L, thanks for input also as you always are there to help. Explain alittle more about your comment as I rarely hear much talk about that spec and how it works and relates to me please.