Dishwasher, no heat dry cycle.  Works like a charm.

My only concern with this would be how the temperature is controlled.  I've read that some dishwashers heat up the water to 130 degrees, while others may go as high as 170 degrees.  I'd personally feel totally comfortable with the former, but wouldn't expose my equipment to the latter.

I don't think you'll find a commercial oil-extraction unit that will go much higher than 140.  That tells me that above and beyond 140 not only is not necessary, but also that it could be potentially unsafe.

I hit mine with non-acetone fingernail polish remover after every session.  I've got a Storm Flash Force that has every bit of 400 games and still squeaks like new.

Also, I have no problem throwing a ball in the oven at 150 for 45 minutes if I have to. 

Do you know that non-acetone fingernail polish remover is also on USBC's Not Approved Ever list?  A partial copy of the list is below.  --  JohnP

NOT APPROVED EVER
Kerosene, gasoline, other fuels
Master Ball Cleaner by Master Industries
Most commercial solvents (xylol, lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, chloro-form, methyl hydrate)
David Greco Cleaner
Dull It by INX Corp.
Ethers, esters and ketones (MEK)
Cutex (acetone OR non-acetone nail polish remover)
Armor-All
Acetone
Product
Pure Wash Ball Wash by LMB International (Lane Masters)
Updated:

For anybody that wants to know the real scoop, check out the Jayhawk DeTox thread on BBE.  Numerous dishwasher brands listed, the temps they go to.  Why, there are even a couple of State plumbing codes listed concerning hot water. It would appear that a user wants to make this a pissing match, yet again.  As I said, check it out and form your own educated opinion on how to do this procedure.  To my knowledge there has not been a single report of the dishwasher harming a ball like there have with people who tried using an over.  There's many ways to do it, decide for yourself. 

Well, if you can't find a two by four to get the message thru, I guess you just use data.

Please note that "sanitizing" dishes occurs at temps of 155* F. All these high end dishwashers have a sanitize or heavy soil cycle where they will heat the the water. Please note the temps that they will heat the water to. THIS IS WHY I HAVE STATED NUMEROUS TIMES TO USE THE REGULAR CYCLE AND YOU DO NOT USE THE SANITIZE OR HEAVY SOIL FEATURE AND NEVER USE THE HEATED DRY. Most dishwashers operate at home water temp which is usually somewhere between 120*-140* F. State of Ohio buidling code: 1002.2.2 Temperature limitation. Where a combination potable water-heating and space-heating system requires water for space heating at temperatures higher than 140ºF (60ºC), a temperature actuated mixing valve that conforms to ASSE 1017 shall be provided to temper the water supplied to the potable hot water distribution system to a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC) or less in accordance with the plumbing code. This is Michigan's: R 408.30735 Hot water supply required. Tempered water shall be supplied through a
water temperature limiting device that conforms to ASSE 1070, as referenced in chapter 13 of the code, and shall limit the tempered water to a maximum of
110 degrees Fahrenheit (43 degrees Celsius).

To actually think all water will not evaporate out of a bowling ball after the dishwasher method is ridiculous. You never heard Mo Pinel be concerned about that when he recommended the hot water bath.


The Miele G5105SCU is one of our highest-rated machines, a well balanced dishwasher that offers flexibility and great performance in addition to sanitation capabilities. It’s also quite expensive.

Through our tests, we found the G5105SCU reached at least 155 degrees on two cycles. The SaniWash option reached 156.8 degrees, while the longer-lasting and better-performing Pots & Pans cycle reached a more comfortable 164.4 degrees.

The GE GLDT696TSS is considerably more affordable than the Miele, although the performance is not quite as impressive.

Nonetheless, our tests found the GE’s Sanitize rinse reached a satisfactory 157.6 degrees. While the Heavy cycle also got pretty hot (154.4 degrees), it wasn’t quite enough to sanitize.

This Bosch Integra shares is one of the best machines we’ve tested, as well as one of the most expensive. It has a lot to offer. When it comes to sanitation, the SHX98M09UC has a whopping three cycles that surpass 155 degrees: Super Auto Wash (156.5), Auto Delicate Wash (157), and Auto Wash + Sani (160.9). It’s important to note here that just because some of these washes reached 155 degrees does not mean they are completely thorough in killing bacteria, as it is all about the duration of high temperature exposure. For this reason, put your trust in the specifically designated ”sanitize” cycles.

A very large and portable machine, the Maytag MDC4809PAB is highly efficient and will serve most high-operating kitchens, even if its features are lacking and its performance forgettable.

Like the Bosch Integra, the MDC4809PAB has a Sanitize option, and it can be added to any of the main cycles, thereby drawing up the heat to sanitization levels. In our tests, the Normal cycle with the Sani option was able to reach a fairly consistent 156 degrees.

Once again, these temps are reached when you push the button on your dishwasher to sanitize your dishes.  Normally your dishwasher will run at the temp your water heater is set.  This is usually between 120-130 degrees.   

Like I said, you don't want to take advantage of the safe, convenient dishwasher or you don't have a dishwasher, make an ultrasonic cleaner I linked to, or start carving up plastic buckets and mounting dehydrators to them.

Many dishwashers (certainly many KitchenAid models) heat the water to specific temperatures regardless of all the additional features being turned off. Why do you think there is a difference in final temperature between "Normal" and "Light?China" mode?? Because the dishwasher is optimizing it's water temperature based on the mode selected. 

Oh, I don't know.  Because most dishwashers run at the water temp of the hot water heater.  Taken right from the Whirlpool dishwasher manual:

Start or Resume a Cycle
■ Run hot water at the sink nearest your dishwasher until the
water is hot. Turn off water. For best dishwashing results, water
should be 120ºF (49ºC) as it enters the dishwasher.
■ For models with controls on top of the door, select
wash cycle, option and press START/RESUME
before closing the door. Push door firmly closed.
The door latches automatically. Select the wash
cycle, options and press STAR/RESUME or press
START/RESUME to repeat the same cycle and
options as in the previous wash cycle.
■ You can add an item anytime at the beginning of the cycle.
Open the door slowly and add the item. Close the door firmly.
Press START/RESUME.

Please try to understand the above.  It's not rocket science. To clean food off dishes, water temp needs to be 120F-125F degrees farenheit. This is the temp water heaters are set at.  If you need to sanitize and kill germs, you have the option on most dishwashers to push the sanitize button and the dishwasher will heat the water to the 150F-155F degree range.  Again, THIS IS AN OPTION Most dishwashers have a sensor to delay the wash cycle if the water temp falls below the 120-125 temp range as your hot water emptys and can't keep up.  Again, it does not heat it hotter than that unless you choose the option to have it do that.

Again, there is practically no danger to your bowling ball with most dishwashers in use today. As I said, where have you ever heard a report of a ball damaged in a dishwasher, tub, or bucket?  You haven't because it doesn't happen.     

Quote from: Long Gone Daddy on April 24, 2014, 04:40:43 PM

Many dishwashers (certainly many KitchenAid models) heat the water to specific temperatures regardless of all the additional features being turned off. Why do you think there is a difference in final temperature between "Normal" and "Light?China" mode?? Because the dishwasher is optimizing it's water temperature based on the mode selected. 

Oh, I don't know.  Because most dishwashers run at the water temp of the hot water heater. 

But not all do. That's the point. I referenced that there are seven separate KitchenAid models I'm aware of that don't run at the water temp of the hot water heater. Logic says there are more across different brands. I don't know (and you don't know) how many do and don't, but the point is that not all dishwashers are created equal.
 
And if that's the case (it is), why not make the effort to understand how your specific dishwasher operates and make an educated decision on how to proceed from there?
 
If I'm dishwashing a ball that has a warranty to temperatures up to 125 degrees, but the water temp is going to be 135-145 degrees, I'm going to want to know and decide how to go from there. Most people would take this approach. It seems pretty simple.

Most people understand the meaning of the word "most".  Perhaps you can look it up in the dictionary.  I really don't understand why you don't understand the starement that people must educate themselves.  Maybe its because you don't enter facts to help them decide.  I do.  Maybe its because you don't understand plumbing and appliances.  I do.  Maybe its just because you don't know when to let it go.

Thanks for the insightful post.