BallReviews
General Category => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: bradl on December 08, 2014, 07:11:33 PM
-
I'm saying towards yes, but I'm always welcome to 2nd, 3rd, and 10th opinions.
I only bought the ball in March or April this year, so I'm well within warranty. My only challenge will be to get the same top weight and pin. But what say you?
BL.
-
If you don't have to pay to get the replacement drilled I guess I'd do it. If not, you could probably just get the area repaired for less and have virtually zero impact on performance. I had my XXXL (not the same as a pure strike ball, but I use mine plenty for that) fixed from the exact same thing. I've had a few balls replaced under warranty, but it hurts to be out another $50-60 to get the new one drilled.
-
If you don't have to pay to get the replacement drilled I guess I'd do it. If not, you could probably just get the area repaired for less and have virtually zero impact on performance. I had my XXXL (not the same as a pure strike ball, but I use mine plenty for that) fixed from the exact same thing. I've had a few balls replaced under warranty, but it hurts to be out another $50-60 to get the new one drilled.
I agree with Strider. I had two Eruption Pro's crack across the bridge, just as your Pivot appears. Both balls were replaced, but drilling was on my dime. Even at a much lower fee, it was still more than fixes to the original balls would have been.
-
Super glue, sweet & low and zap a gap...stronger than the bowling ball material
-
I would get it warranted. If you let it go too long without fixing it, you take the chance of the crack to spread out by the outer finger and crack as far as around the entire ball.
-
Two things to consider. Most companies like a 1" buffer from the pin and holes drilled. The second is there appears to be no bevel on the finger holes which is also recommend. They will likely still replace but then again they may not.
-
Two things to consider. Most companies like a 1" buffer from the pin and holes drilled. The second is there appears to be no bevel on the finger holes which is also recommend. They will likely still replace but then again they may not.
I agree with what Kid just said...I also agree with what Just Rico said...
If holes are left sharp...or the bottom of the holes are pitched in a way that the holes meet...this may cause the bridge to crack...
If you are in love with this ball or are worried about getting the same pin...Maybe think
about what Just Rico said...
It's fixable....This sort of thing happens all the time...I know no one wants it to happen to their NEW ball...
Now what Kid said about the pin being at least 1" away from any finger holes may also
play into the ball getting replaced...But usually IMO...They mean if the ball cracked from the pin towards a finger hole...
Did you take this back to the pro shop where you had the ball drilled???
-
Two things to consider. Most companies like a 1" buffer from the pin and holes drilled. The second is there appears to be no bevel on the finger holes which is also recommend. They will likely still replace but then again they may not.
I agree with what Kid just said...I also agree with what Just Rico said...
If holes are left sharp...or the bottom of the holes are pitched in a way that the holes meet...this may cause the bridge to crack...
If you are in love with this ball or are worried about getting the same pin...Maybe think
about what Just Rico said...
It's fixable....This sort of thing happens all the time...I know no one wants it to happen to their NEW ball...
Now what Kid said about the pin being at least 1" away from any finger holes may also
play into the ball getting replaced...But usually IMO...They mean if the ball cracked from the pin towards a finger hole...
Did you take this back to the pro shop where you had the ball drilled???
Not yet. I plan on it. My issue is that I have to get it back to Las Vegas, as that is where I had it drilled. I fly back there roughly once per month for work, and take my gear when I go (To be honest, taking the 1st flight in and last flight out when you only have to do 2 hours of work there makes it a good time to stop by old stomping grounds.. especially when work pays for the trip! ;D ).
when I saw the crack in the bridge I actually stopped using the ball and took it out of the bag. I have other gear similar that I can throw for now with a slower ball speed to get a similar look, but I definitely plan on getting it back to the pro shop.
I'll keep you all up to date on what happens.
BL.
-
Bradl...try taking a pic of the cracked area and email it to customer service at Ebonite...lot of companies do that now...
-
Bradl...try taking a pic of the cracked area and email it to customer service at Ebonite...lot of companies do that now...
Actually, it might be more effective to send a text with a photo to the proshop where he bought the ball. They might be able to get the Distributor to agree to a replacement before Bradl's next trip to Vegas.
That's how I handled a crack while I was bowling Nationals in Reno earlier this year. It expedited the whole replacement process.
-
It's not dyer...it is normal to an extent when putting holes in...me personally, I used to put a dab of super glue in the crack and went on my way
-
It's not dyer...it is normal to an extent when putting holes in...me personally, I used to put a dab of super glue in the crack and went on my way
I have (another) ball with the same straight crack that Bradl's picture shows. The ball is a few years old, so I'll be dealing with a fix myself. Are you saying just a dab of Super Glue in the crack will do it? Nothing else?
-
Yup just dribbling it down into the crack it'll secure it
-
Yup just dribbling it down into the crack it'll secure it
Got hold of the pro shop on this one, and that is nearly what they suggested. In fact, I got hold of the guy who directly punched up the ball, and showed him the pictures.
Measuring it, and going off the specs he had for it, it appears to be 1 inch exactly from the pin to the holes, so I'm pretty safe there. I also described the crack to be no thicker than a business card, since that is what it is. His suggestion: Most manufacturers won't cover this under warranty (it isn't a defect, like a separated core, etc.), but if I'm loving this ball, plug it and get the fingers redrilled in the same location. The plugging will cover the crack anyway, and drilling it in the same place will give the same performance.
I'm probably going to go that route, and could have it done at my local pro shop here, as that is going to take a couple of days anyway. I could try to do it myself, but there's the liability thing; if the pro shop does it and screws up, they'll be on the hook for replacing the ball, not just me being out of the ball to begin with.
BL.
-
I would simply super glue it first then once it cracks worse plug it...my opinion only of course
-
The distance is measured from the edge of the pin to the edge of the drilled hole, not the center of each. Either way, glue it, will be fine for time to come.
-
I would simply super glue it first then once it cracks worse plug it...my opinion only of course
On a very thin crack like the one in Brad's picture, will the super glue seep far enough down before it starts hardening? Or in the case of a thin crack, is it better to do a pitch plug of fingers?
-
If it does harden pour more on top...
-
SUPER GLUE IT!! It'll be fine. I've had bridge cracks way worse than that and the super glue fix solved it with no problem.