I used to put my Vertigo in the dishwasher back in the day. I still use it today as my main ball despite all the fears of ruining the ball. People seem to forget these are just spheres of material surrounding a metal core. They aren't exactly fragile lol.

I keep my NuBall oven on 135 degrees for all my de-oil needs, regardless of brand.

 
 
Then you're exceeding the allowable warranty threshold for extreme temperatures established by some manufacturers, including Motiv. Chances are that you won't cause damage, but who knows?

Motiv also specifies 125 degrees F as the upper limit.

Actually, the outside box for Storm and Brunswick give maximum temperatures; EBI brands do not indicate it on the box. Storm, Roto-Grip (and probably AZO and 900Global and AMF) and Brunswick (& DV8 & Radical) say the ball should exceed 125 degrees Fahrenheit.

Ebonite also does not indicate a temperature limit in their warranty on their web site.

 
At one time Storm specified 140 degrees. It's now 125 degrees. I just bought a Storm Rocket Ship, and the box says 125. as does my boxes for my Rocket and Optimus Soild. The 900 Global site says 140 degrees, if it's still accurate. EBI has always had a problem with heat, so it doesn't surprise me they leave temperature off their warranty statement.
 
Regardless, 125 degrees seems to be the majority high mark temperature. 

Seismic has a steamer. Steam is 212 degrees

update

Found the video. May not boil the water after re-watching the video. It may only get up to the same temp discussed early of 125-150


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE1MGbHBi0w

It's not seismic, Sean just demo'd it. It's $739 while the nuball and innovative personal are $189

http://www.tosweatbox.com

I'm going to have check my unit to see what temperature its at, there isn't any markings on the dial.
and unofficially, EBI is max 125

Admittedly, I'm new to de-oil processes.
the 1st few I did didn't seem to work so well (not alot of oil came out of it)
I don't know if it was the characteristics of the cover or what
say 30 games, 3000 grit used, fairly higher volume place
for the purpose of this conversation, it was a Columbia VOW
took it to 500 at someone else suggestion (don't remember who)
got a bunch of oil out of that ball, puddles in fact.
put it at 1000 + polish and it seemed to have similar reaction with less maintenance afterwards since it was now polished

Makes we wonder, what is the proper surface prep for de-oiling use?

Admittedly, I'm new to de-oil processes.
the 1st few I did didn't seem to work so well (not alot of oil came out of it)
I don't know if it was the characteristics of the cover or what
say 30 games, 3000 grit used, fairly higher volume place
for the purpose of this conversation, it was a Columbia VOW
took it to 500 at someone else suggestion (don't remember who)
got a bunch of oil out of that ball, puddles in fact.
put it at 1000 + polish and it seemed to have similar reaction with less maintenance afterwards since it was now polished

Makes we wonder, what is the proper surface prep for de-oiling use?

Some people feel that sanding the ball rough, 360 - 500 grit, "opens up the pores" of the resin surface and helps get more oil out from deeper. I am not sure if that is true, but it s logical "on the surface". CHemically speaking I have no idea if the idea is valid or not; I am not a resin chemist. It certainly doesn't hurt if the ball needs a total resurfacing after you have done an oil extraction. However, if the ball only needs a surface refreshing, sanding it rough can remove extra surface and force you to do a total resurfacing.


FYI, logically speaking if you polish a ball that you previously had dull, you are obviously using or intending to use it on much less oil. Therefore, it will now be subject to less oil and should over the same amount of games, absorb less oil than when it was dull and used on heavier oil.

From a personal perspective, I use many different balls, mostly testing, in league and I not only bowl mostly on light oil, I am diligent in cleaning the ball thoroughly before I leave the center and put my balls back in the bag. Almost no ball I use regularly has had any oil come out of it in the NuBall oven, but I have done many friend's and teammate's balls and almost all have had a little to a lot of oil come out of them.

I don't get much oil out of my stuff with the NuBall either when I regularly clean after bowling. If I skip cleaning them once or twice though it really comes out. To me it's more of a testament of how good cleaners are today in conjunction with staying on top of cleaning your equipment rather than new resins making oil extraction more difficult.

When I put other people's stuff in it's usually a good mix of older and newer equipment. Haven't found much of a pattern on how much oil comes out of what other than how much their stuff is used relative to how often it's cleaned.