BallReviews
General Category => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: thewhiz on September 04, 2016, 06:53:50 AM
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Would it be better to use a Nuball rejuvinator or would a bucket of hot soapy water do the trick just as well?
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Putting the ball over the air vent after each shot helps alot.
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The Nuball works great
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Would it be better to use a Nuball rejuvinator or would a bucket of hot soapy water do the trick just as well?
The NuBall is so much easier and does such a better job that it's like night and day.
And if you go to their website and tell them your a coach or a senior or a student, you can get an extra discount.
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I use the shower. Though it works best if the water is very hot, so don't take a long shower before showering your balls :P
I did that today, and the water wasn't hot enough to extract any oil.
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I use water as hot as I can get mixed with a household degreaser in a bucket...let sit for about 30 mins and I can literally wipe the oil off the top of the water....
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I picked up a lightly used INNOVATIVE personal ball revivor for $100
works great, I get best results when I take surface to 500 prior to using this
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Putting the ball over the air vent after each shot helps alot.
Another dumb comment from this guy.
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He has 2 handles on here, both Troll accounts.
Thankful for blocking feature
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I have the NuBall oven and it does a great job with no mess like I had when I use to do hot water bath method. Dave81644 is correct. The secret to getting the most oil out of the ball is to take the ball down to the lowest grit in the resurface specs. (usually 360 or 500) and then de-oil it. After your done.... finish resurfacing it to the final grit you desire.
Invest in a NuBall or Innovative oven, new or used. You won't be disappointed.
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The only complaint that I have is, mine doesn't have a timer to shut the unit off. You have to set an alarm and make sure you watch it.
Usually every 10 to 15 minutes I take it out and wipe it down, put back in and turn it it to a different area
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I just performed a de-oil for a friend in my NuBall. He has an older Columbia pearl that was saturated. It took about 3 hours before nothing more bleed out. I took the ball out every 20 minutes of so to wipe it off before continuing. I have no idea how many hot water buckets it would have taken to accomplish the same result.
I'm not sure it's necessary to bring the ball down to 500 before de-oiling. My experience has been that a ball will either return a lot of oil, or nothing all all. But I guess it can't hurt to take down the surface first if the ball needs a refinish anyway.
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The only complaint that I have is, mine doesn't have a timer to shut the unit off. You have to set an alarm and make sure you watch it.
Usually every 10 to 15 minutes I take it out and wipe it down, put back in and turn it it to a different area
Dave,
Since you set the temp (very accurate) to the safe temp for that brand, leave it in for an hour and then check it. If there's oil, wipe it off. If there isn't, then you're done.
I wouldn't bother to check it every 15 minutes, unless you happen to be very close by.
Of course, timers that go to wall sockets are cheap. I use one for growing seedlings inside the house in the spring.
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I guess I haven't done that method yet, I got this from a shop that was closing a 2nd location and he had the temp set on the unit and i left it.Maybe I should set it a little lower and try your method.
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I guess I haven't done that method yet, I got this from a shop that was closing a 2nd location and he had the temp set on the unit and i left it.Maybe I should set it a little lower and try your method.
The max recommended temps are not the same for all manufacturers to stay within warranty compliance. Storm (and I believe Brunswick) can be taken up to 140. EBI can be taken to 125. I've found 125 to be effective regardless of brand.
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I used to put my Vertigo in the dishwasher back in the day. I still use it today as my main ball despite all the fears of ruining the ball. People seem to forget these are just spheres of material surrounding a metal core. They aren't exactly fragile lol.
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I keep my NuBall oven on 135 degrees for all my de-oil needs, regardless of brand.
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I keep my NuBall oven on 135 degrees for all my de-oil needs, regardless of brand.
Then you're exceeding the allowable warranty threshold for extreme temperatures established by some manufacturers, including Motiv. Chances are that you won't cause damage, but who knows?
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I guess I haven't done that method yet, I got this from a shop that was closing a 2nd location and he had the temp set on the unit and i left it.Maybe I should set it a little lower and try your method.
The max recommended temps are not the same for all manufacturers to stay within warranty compliance. Storm (and I believe Brunswick) can be taken up to 140. EBI can be taken to 125. I've found 125 to be effective regardless of brand.
Motiv also specifies 125 degrees F as the upper limit.
Actually, the outside box for Storm and Brunswick give maximum temperatures; EBI brands do not indicate it on the box. Storm, Roto-Grip (and probably AZO and 900Global and AMF) and Brunswick (& DV8 & Radical) say the ball should exceed 125 degrees Fahrenheit.
Ebonite also does not indicate a temperature limit in their warranty on their web site.
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Motiv also specifies 125 degrees F as the upper limit.
Actually, the outside box for Storm and Brunswick give maximum temperatures; EBI brands do not indicate it on the box. Storm, Roto-Grip (and probably AZO and 900Global and AMF) and Brunswick (& DV8 & Radical) say the ball should exceed 125 degrees Fahrenheit.
Ebonite also does not indicate a temperature limit in their warranty on their web site.
At one time Storm specified 140 degrees. It's now 125 degrees. I just bought a Storm Rocket Ship, and the box says 125. as does my boxes for my Rocket and Optimus Soild. The 900 Global site says 140 degrees, if it's still accurate. EBI has always had a problem with heat, so it doesn't surprise me they leave temperature off their warranty statement.
Regardless, 125 degrees seems to be the majority high mark temperature.
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Seismic has a steamer. Steam is 212 degrees
update
Found the video. May not boil the water after re-watching the video. It may only get up to the same temp discussed early of 125-150
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE1MGbHBi0w
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Seismic has a steamer. Steam is 212 degrees
update
Found the video. May not boil the water after re-watching the video. It may only get up to the same temp discussed early of 125-150
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE1MGbHBi0w
It's not seismic, Sean just demo'd it. It's $739 while the nuball and innovative personal are $189
http://www.tosweatbox.com
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It's not seismic, Sean just demo'd it. It's $739 while the nuball and innovative personal are $189
http://www.tosweatbox.com (http://www.tosweatbox.com)
I clean my stuff at the alley throughly before going home. Still, I would expect to get some oil out of my balls using NuBall after 30-50 games, but it almost never happens. Is it possible that the newer resin formulations don't give up oil to dry heat the way older equipment does?
$739 is a big investment, but if it keeps reaction going much longer than dry heat, I might consider it. I'd really like to se a video demonstration where dry heat doesn't do the job, but the sweat box actually works.
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I'm going to have check my unit to see what temperature its at, there isn't any markings on the dial.
and unofficially, EBI is max 125
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I have a two ball rejuvenator that will heat up to 150. 125 is hot enough to deoil any ball. No need to exceed that temperature.
Also, there is no need to take the surface down before deoiling.
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Admittedly, I'm new to de-oil processes.
the 1st few I did didn't seem to work so well (not alot of oil came out of it)
I don't know if it was the characteristics of the cover or what
say 30 games, 3000 grit used, fairly higher volume place
for the purpose of this conversation, it was a Columbia VOW
took it to 500 at someone else suggestion (don't remember who)
got a bunch of oil out of that ball, puddles in fact.
put it at 1000 + polish and it seemed to have similar reaction with less maintenance afterwards since it was now polished
Makes we wonder, what is the proper surface prep for de-oiling use?
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Usually when a person does a de-oil 50-75 games it is also time for a resurface. As an example using the Storm/Roto Grip resurface chart, for most balls the base grit is 360 or 500. This besides creating deep peaks & valleys, also opens the pours of the ball surface which allows for a better flow of oil from the ball as you discovered when de-oiling.
Is it necessary....it's a personal choice, but my experience has shown I get more oil from the ball just as you did. When done finish the resurface and you good to go.
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Admittedly, I'm new to de-oil processes.
the 1st few I did didn't seem to work so well (not alot of oil came out of it)
I don't know if it was the characteristics of the cover or what
say 30 games, 3000 grit used, fairly higher volume place
for the purpose of this conversation, it was a Columbia VOW
took it to 500 at someone else suggestion (don't remember who)
got a bunch of oil out of that ball, puddles in fact.
put it at 1000 + polish and it seemed to have similar reaction with less maintenance afterwards since it was now polished
Makes we wonder, what is the proper surface prep for de-oiling use?
Some people feel that sanding the ball rough, 360 - 500 grit, "opens up the pores" of the resin surface and helps get more oil out from deeper. I am not sure if that is true, but it s logical "on the surface". CHemically speaking I have no idea if the idea is valid or not; I am not a resin chemist. It certainly doesn't hurt if the ball needs a total resurfacing after you have done an oil extraction. However, if the ball only needs a surface refreshing, sanding it rough can remove extra surface and force you to do a total resurfacing.
FYI, logically speaking if you polish a ball that you previously had dull, you are obviously using or intending to use it on much less oil. Therefore, it will now be subject to less oil and should over the same amount of games, absorb less oil than when it was dull and used on heavier oil.
From a personal perspective, I use many different balls, mostly testing, in league and I not only bowl mostly on light oil, I am diligent in cleaning the ball thoroughly before I leave the center and put my balls back in the bag. Almost no ball I use regularly has had any oil come out of it in the NuBall oven, but I have done many friend's and teammate's balls and almost all have had a little to a lot of oil come out of them.
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I am diligent in cleaning the ball thoroughly before I leave the center and put my balls back in the bag. Almost no ball I use regularly has had any oil come out of it in the NuBall oven, but I have done many friend's and teammate's balls and almost all have had a little to a lot of oil come out of them.
Exactly how I handle my equipment, and what I experience with de-oiling friend's and teammate's balls. Although most of the stuff I put in NuBall that isn't mine tends to be older equipment.
I wonder sometimes if the newer resin formulas make oil extraction more difficult. The PBA Regionals and Vegas tournaments I bowl generally use heavier volumes than I see in leagues, and even wiping down between shots, some oil soaks in. I know I'm getting a lot out cleaning immediately after, but there still has to be some accumulation. If there is oil in there, I'm not able to bake it out. Maybe the rigorous regular cleaning is doing the trick. I wish there was some way of knowing for sure.
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I don't get much oil out of my stuff with the NuBall either when I regularly clean after bowling. If I skip cleaning them once or twice though it really comes out. To me it's more of a testament of how good cleaners are today in conjunction with staying on top of cleaning your equipment rather than new resins making oil extraction more difficult.
When I put other people's stuff in it's usually a good mix of older and newer equipment. Haven't found much of a pattern on how much oil comes out of what other than how much their stuff is used relative to how often it's cleaned.
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I agree that consistent ball cleaning seems to slow down the oil accumulation. I never get any oil out of my Motiv equipment with good cleaning after each session. My Storm/Roto Grip balls are similar. However, some will expel oil in the oven.
Now just about every EBI ball along with my Brunswick Strike King expels oil every time I de-oil it.
So my experience is certain brands need de-oiling more than others. Your experience may be different.
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I am diligent in cleaning the ball thoroughly before I leave the center and put my balls back in the bag. Almost no ball I use regularly has had any oil come out of it in the NuBall oven, but I have done many friend's and teammate's balls and almost all have had a little to a lot of oil come out of them.
Exactly how I handle my equipment, and what I experience with de-oiling friend's and teammate's balls. Although most of the stuff I put in NuBall that isn't mine tends to be older equipment.
I wonder sometimes if the newer resin formulas make oil extraction more difficult. The PBA Regionals and Vegas tournaments I bowl generally use heavier volumes than I see in leagues, and even wiping down between shots, some oil soaks in. I know I'm getting a lot out cleaning immediately after, but there still has to be some accumulation. If there is oil in there, I'm not able to bake it out. Maybe the rigorous regular cleaning is doing the trick. I wish there was some way of knowing for sure.
I wonder, on the other hand, if some of the chemical research being done by manufacturers or resin suppliers is finding resins that can absorb more oil before the absorbed oil begins to affect the performance of balls. I think the possibility is small but present, possible.
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I agree that consistent ball cleaning seems to slow down the oil accumulation. I never get any oil out of my Motiv equipment with good cleaning after each session. My Storm/Roto Grip balls are similar. However, some will expel oil in the oven.
Now just about every EBI ball along with my Brunswick Strike King expels oil every time I de-oil it.
So my experience is certain brands need de-oiling more than others. Your experience may be different.
I throw a lot of EBI. Which specific balls are you seeing oil from? If we have some of the same, I'd like to experiment.
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My Pivot, Ransom Demand, GB2, & Cyclone. The Cyclone is the worst. Always bleeds a ton of oil in a very few games. Great ball barring the high maintenance.
My Source and 300c solid have been not bled much if any oil.
Do you have any of these? What is your experience?
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I agree that consistent ball cleaning seems to slow down the oil accumulation. I never get any oil out of my Motiv equipment with good cleaning after each session. My Storm/Roto Grip balls are similar. However, some will expel oil in the oven.
Now just about every EBI ball along with my Brunswick Strike King expels oil every time I de-oil it.
So my experience is certain brands need de-oiling more than others. Your experience may be different.
Same here with Motiv. Put all my equipment in a ball oven and have yet to see any significant oil. I don't religiously clean either. I put my Dad's Radical and Storm in and oil pours out immediately.
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I agree that consistent ball cleaning seems to slow down the oil accumulation. I never get any oil out of my Motiv equipment with good cleaning after each session. My Storm/Roto Grip balls are similar. However, some will expel oil in the oven.
Now just about every EBI ball along with my Brunswick Strike King expels oil every time I de-oil it.
So my experience is certain brands need de-oiling more than others. Your experience may be different.
Same here with Motiv. Put all my equipment in a ball oven and have yet to see any significant oil. I don't religiously clean either. I put my Dad's Radical and Storm in and oil pours out immediately.
Motiv balls seem to be stronger than average, yet also seem to absorb as little oil as Lane Masters coverstocks. Actually, I'm not sure if they absorb little or they let go of almost no oil.
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I have 7 Motiv balls, the Raptor Talon, all the Sigmas, three Venoms (Strike, Shock, & Toxin). Really never got any oil from any of them.
If the coverstocks were designed to "hold" the oil and not expel it even under heat, then I would expect a loss in reaction. That has never happened to me. All I ever do is resurface and the balls continue to perform.
Motiv covers seem to be harder than most. You can sense/feel it when resurfacing. Perhaps they just don't absorb oil like we expect from a modern bowling ball. So I guess that means they are not stripping oil from the lane, but actually pushing the oil around and causing carrydown.
But, I believe Joe S. stated there is no such thing as carry down, so ???
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But, I believe Joe S. stated there is no such thing as carry down, so ???
When everyone uses resin, there is little chance of carrydown.
When your league follows a women's, senior's, children's or mixed handicap league or open bowling, all of which use plastic/polyester and urethane, you WILL get carrydown.
Period. End of story.
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In regard to the Motiv balls, they had those videos where they put them in the bucket of oil or something like that. To show how it didn't affect them.
New Motiv balls all seem to have a strong chemical smell, I wonder could they be treating them in something or using a additive that has some affect on the absorbed oil.
Or maybe something like the "chemical friction" additive Radical talked a couple of times about.
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My Pivot, Ransom Demand, GB2, & Cyclone. The Cyclone is the worst. Always bleeds a ton of oil in a very few games. Great ball barring the high maintenance.
My Source and 300c solid have been not bled much if any oil.
Do you have any of these? What is your experience?
I have the Pivot. I just threw it yesterday for the first time in 2 years. It was fresh heavy THS, and I cleaned with Hook-It after 4 games of use. I always immediately cleaned it with Hook-It when I first got it. I put the Pivot in NuBall today, and after 30 minutes, nothing baked to the surface. Maybe I have to get 30-50 additional games before enough accumulates, even with rigorous cleaning, to bleed out.
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I bought my Pivot used off ebay. So I have no idea how it was maintained. I started using it for about 10-15 games and I was not overly impressed with it. Disappointing because so many raved about the ball. I put it in the oven and it expelled oil. When I got all the oil out, I resurfaced it and viola the ball sprang to life. Don't use it much anymore, so I don't know if I would get any oil out of it now.
In my experience the Cyclone is a great ball, but it soaks up oil like a sponge. I could put it in the oven every 10 games and it would bleed tons of oil each time. I don't know if all Cyclones are like mine, but that's my experience with it.
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Some pretty good input here about these ovens. I am also on the fence about getting one since I am one of the people that religiously clean each ball after every session. I'll start with a spray cleaner and if that doesn't get everything off then I'll go to a clean and dull or hook it to make sure it's spotless. Just recently picked up a cyclone myself and only have used it for about 5 games so far. I'm curious of the effects of cleaning it every session if it would be worth it to invest in one. From all the posts so far it seems like the people that get the most oil out are the ones that don't do care for their coverstocks very often.
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bowlingman817,
I hope you do not think from any of my posts that I don't clean my bowling balls immediately after each session, because I do.
I think regular cleaning for balls like Motiv may be the reason so many folks have a hard time getting the balls to expel oil.
Yet, other brands/balls will expel oil no matter how much you clean them right after a bowling session.
I'm glad I invested in a ball oven (Nuball). It has done the job
for me on the balls that need de-oiling based on their cover stock characteristics. Hope this clarifies any of my posts for you.
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Yeah, I'd like to clarify from my post earlier too. Even though I don't regularly get oil out of my bowling balls because I'm usually on top of cleaning them right away I still love my NuBall oven. So much faster and easier than the mess with hot water and soap and it also gets oil out better from my experience. Would definitely recommend one to anybody who's serious about maintaining their equipment.
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I'm just more than a beginner and didn't know that de-oiling a ball even existed until about a year ago.
That said, I live in a part of the country where many heat with wood. I put the ball (I have 2, Cyclone and GB2 MVP) on an upside down bucket near the wood stove. I monitor the surface temperature with a laser thermometer ($30 at Harbor Freight Tools) and keep it under 150 F.
The Cyclone gushes oil. I think it makes its own! I put a rag under it and it's drenched. The GB2, less so but still a lot. Obviously, I only de-oil in the colder months.
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Would it be better to use a Nuball rejuvinator or would a bucket of hot soapy water do the trick just as well?
Whiz, do yourself an immense favor and buy the NuBall unit. I have one and love it. Just my opinion, but for extracting oil, there is no substitute for the controlled heat that you get from the Rejuvenator.
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Grande -- Various manufacturers recommend 125 - 140* F as max temperature, 150* will void the warranty. Move the bucket a little further from the stove. -- JohnP
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There have been a number of posts stating that you should not exceed 125 degrees because you will void the warranty. Any balls I have had crack (complete around the entire ball) and I have had many have never even been in a oven. They have cracked sitting on Robby ball cups in plastic bags and rotated every 30 days in a climate controlled room.
The few that have been de-oiled in their life that cracked later on and were still under warranty were returned to the pro shop and then to the distributor for a replacement.
Never ever has a distributor or PSO say, sorry we have somehow determined you de-oiled at 130 or 135 or even 150 degrees so we will not warrant the ball.
Someone please enlighten me and the other perhaps interested posters how a PSO or distributor or even the mfg. as far as that goes can tell a ball was de-oiled sometime in it's life at 130, 135,140, 145, or 150 degrees? I'm really interested in knowing.
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Unless someone goes completely overboard with baking, any damage resulting from over warrenty temps probably won't be made into an issue. That's my guess anyway.
However, it doesn't make sense to me to exceed manufacturer specified limits. If they say 125 degrees, why exceed it? If a ball doesn't return oil at 125, my experience has been its not going to happen at anything higher. I'd rather be safe than sorry.
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Which is better Nuball or Innovative? Or are they the same?
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I don't disagree. Over the years there have been many posts on this forum & others about heating ball temperature. I seem to remember years ago that I read not exceed 140 degrees and this at least at the time may have been the "norm". That's why I always kept my temperature at 135 degrees to allow a buffer.
Now it seems the norm is 125 degrees as the accepted temp. max. per the majority of ball manufactures.
I truly believe I never did any damage to any of my balls at 135 degrees. However, I am open to change and will probably lower the temp. to 125. However, if I have a known "bleeder" like my Cyclone and I don't see the amount of oil I'm use to seeing, I may inch again to the 135 mark or in between. Gotta do what I gotta do; but 135 is my max.
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I believe a horse apiece. But, since I have the NuBall I'm partial to it.
Charlest may be able to give a more definitive answer. I believe he knows the ins & outs of the NuBall as well as anybody. Hopefully, he will be able to talk about the Innovative oven.
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I don't disagree. Over the years there have been many posts on this forum & others about heating ball temperature. I seem to remember years ago that I read not exceed 140 degrees and this at least at the time may have been the "norm". That's why I always kept my temperature at 135 degrees to allow a buffer.
Now it seems the norm is 125 degrees as the accepted temp. max. per the majority of ball manufactures.
I truly believe I never did any damage to any of my balls at 135 degrees. However, I am open to change and will probably lower the temp. to 125. However, if I have a known "bleeder" like my Cyclone and I don't see the amount of oil I'm use to seeing, I may inch again to the 135 mark or in between. Gotta do what I gotta do; but 135 is my max.
I think I know what you speaking about.
Several years back some resin (I assume in the bowling industry) told us in some public forum (possibly here) that at 140 degrees Fahrenheit, plasticizers begin to leach from the resin. Theoretically, AFAIK, plasticizer is one of the chemicals in the process that helps urethane for bowling balls (at least) become "reactive" resins. If the plasticizers get removed from the resin, it acts less like resin that we need and, as far as I have learned, perforamnce degrades.
One of the new temperature limits, 125 degrees, is now put on Storm-made and Brunswick-made bowling balls via the warranty on each bowling ball box.
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Yea, it's hard to keep up with individual manufacturer limits. Storm and Brunswick used to be 140, but they've bumped down to 125. I've been using 125 for everything, so it doesn't really matter.
I can't see where 135 is going to inject meaningful risk. However, as charlest stated, I wouldn't exceed 140.
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both units are 189-199 on Amazon with free shipping if you are a prime member. IMO, an oven is a must have tool with today's equipment
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both units are 189-199 on Amazon with free shipping if you are a prime member. IMO, an oven is a must have tool with today's equipment
If you're a student or a coach or a senior citizen, for the NuBall, you can use their website to ask the seller/designer for an added discount.
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Just curious, I've read about others mentioning to sand it down to 500 or lower grit... but I never understood why. Does sanding it down before putting it in the oven make that much more oil come out? Or would it bleed oil out no matter what the surface is at?
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Just curious, I've read about others mentioning to sand it down to 500 or lower grit... but I never understood why. Does sanding it down before putting it in the oven make that much more oil come out? Or would it bleed oil out no matter what the surface is at?
The point of sanding first was to "open the pores".
Over time as you used the ball. dirt and other grime from the lanes, ball lifts, belts etc. would become impacted into the porous surface of the ball.
Which could conceivably trap oil in the ball or at least hinder it's removal. By sanding your removing that dirt from the immediate surface of the ball and making it easier for the absorbed oil to come out.
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Just curious, I've read about others mentioning to sand it down to 500 or lower grit... but I never understood why. Does sanding it down before putting it in the oven make that much more oil come out? Or would it bleed oil out no matter what the surface is at?
There may be some validity to the theory of sanding the ball first, especially as Aloarjr810 has stated with dirt inhibiting the removal of oil. However, the coverstock isn't any different on the surface than it is inside. At a microscopic level, the coverstock resembles a sponge. Whether a sponge is smooth or rough, it is still a sponge and looks the same (porous).
So saying that, I personally don't always resurface my ball when I de-oil. My maintenance schedule for the two aren't the same.
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This idea of needing to sand a ball to make the oil come out better is ridiculous. Sand your ball if you need to resurface it, otherwise, just use whatever method you normally do to take the oil out.
The oil got into your ball with no problem and when you apply heat, it will be forced out just fine without sanding.
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Hmmm. Interesting thought. If dirt on a ball prevents oil from coming out, then a dirty ball should keep the ball from absorbing oil. We just need to take a new ball, rub some kind of dirt on it, and use it for a while before trying to extract oil from it as a test. :)
Maybe we have been hoodwinked by the ball cleaning companies all this time? :)
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FYI, as a test one time, I went through my normal procedure of wiping the ball surface off before every frame and after 30 games or more, doing a hot water/Dawn bath, then put the ball into a NuBall. No oil came out that I could see.
Another test, just wiped the ball off every frame, then after 30-50 games, gave the ball to pro shop with rejuvenator (don't know the brand) and had them run it through. When I picked the ball up a few days later, I asked how much oil came out and was told 'very little'.
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This idea of needing to sand a ball to make the oil come out better is ridiculous. Sand your ball if you need to resurface it, otherwise, just use whatever method you normally do to take the oil out.
The oil got into your ball with no problem and when you apply heat, it will be forced out just fine without sanding.
That's pretty much been my experience. Balls that didn't return oil without sanding didn't magically return oil after immediately sanding to 500.
The balls that bleed oil do so without any special preparation. It sounds good in theory, but it's not necessary in actual practice.
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I just picked up a Nuball based on the recommendations here. Undecided so far. I ran 3 balls through so far and not one produced a drop of oil. One was a very old pearl (Storm Blue Hot Flame) that's never been de-oiled, one was a Black Widow Bite, and the other a Loaded Revolver. The last two don't have a ton of games on them since the last de-oiling, but thought I'd a least see a slimy sheen on the ball afterwards. All were run at 125 degrees.
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I just picked up a Nuball based on the recommendations here. Undecided so far. I ran 3 balls through so far and not one produced a drop of oil. One was a very old pearl (Storm Blue Hot Flame) that's never been de-oiled, one was a Black Widow Bite, and the other a Loaded Revolver. The last two don't have a ton of games on them since the last de-oiling, but thought I'd a least see a slimy sheen on the ball afterwards. All were run at 125 degrees.
It depends on the ball and your cleaning regimen. The NuBall and heat work. period. That is not in doubt.
Did you let it run for at least an hour?
You could try to set the temp a little higher, like 135, but if nothing came out at 125, I sincerely doubt if it will at 135, although it is possible.
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I agree, raise the temp up to 135 and keep it in there for an hour or more and see. Also, don't keep opening it up to check the progress, that lets out all the heat, so just set it and forget it.
I have had very good results with the Nuball.
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I did every ball for 60 minutes at 125-130 degrees never opening the chamber. Heat's heat, it should be working. I may just need a test ball that I know is oil logged.
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I did every ball for 60 minutes at 125-130 degrees never opening the chamber. Heat's heat, it should be working. I may just need a test ball that I know is oil logged.
It's been noted repeatedly that balls wiped between shots and cleaned immediately after use rarely return oil in a heat chamber (NuBall or otherwise). I thought my NuBall was defective when I first got it because nothing I owned was bleeding back oil.
When I started de-oiling poorly maintained teammate's balls, I found out otherwise. It's taken me up to 6 hours to completely de-oil a few of those disasters. NuBall works, but not so much if you take care of your stuff.
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I did every ball for 60 minutes at 125-130 degrees never opening the chamber. Heat's heat, it should be working. I may just need a test ball that I know is oil logged.
It's been noted repeatedly that balls wiped between shots and cleaned immediately after use rarely return oil in a heat chamber (NuBall or otherwise). I thought my NuBall was defective when I first got it because nothing I owned was bleeding back oil.
When I started de-oiling poorly maintained teammate's balls, I found out otherwise. It's taken me up to 6 hours to completely de-oil a few of those disasters. NuBall works, but not so much if you take care of your stuff.
May I politely re-phrase that?
"NuBall always works: when there is oil in the ball to be extracted, NuBall will bring it to the surface."
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May I politely re-phrase that?
"NuBall always works: when there is oil in the ball to be extracted, NuBall will bring it to the surface."
Correction accepted. :)
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I did every ball for 60 minutes at 125-130 degrees never opening the chamber. Heat's heat, it should be working. I may just need a test ball that I know is oil logged.
It's been noted repeatedly that balls wiped between shots and cleaned immediately after use rarely return oil in a heat chamber (NuBall or otherwise). I thought my NuBall was defective when I first got it because nothing I owned was bleeding back oil.
When I started de-oiling poorly maintained teammate's balls, I found out otherwise. It's taken me up to 6 hours to completely de-oil a few of those disasters. NuBall works, but not so much if you take care of your stuff.
I've done a couple of those myself. It was crazy how it just kept pouring out, and I wiped the ball off periodically as well.
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Thanks to one of the BR members here (milo), I was able to use the NuBall this past weekend. Two of my lane masters didn't produce oil, but one of the storm ball's did - 20 mins in the nuball. Other lane masters owned by a friend, well his equipment didn't bleed oil too.
I guess the brand too makes a difference lol
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I've done a couple of those myself. It was crazy how it just kept pouring out, and I wiped the ball off periodically as well.
Yea, crazy and scary at the same time. I took the balls out every 20-30 minutes to wipe off oil and finish off with ball cleaner. After a couple of hours, I was afraid I was bleeding plastizer and other resin chemicals from the balls. But in the end, they all reacted like NIB.
NuBall does work when there is oil to extract.
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Thanks to one of the BR members here (milo), I was able to use the NuBall this past weekend. Two of my lane masters didn't produce oil, but one of the storm ball's did - 20 mins in the nuball. Other lane masters owned by a friend, well his equipment didn't bleed oil too.
I guess the brand too makes a difference lol
Were they the original LM balls or the newer ones?
I knew the original company used some special expensive resins that absorbed very little oil.
Plus some of those coverstocks were over 2" thick.
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Thanks to one of the BR members here (milo), I was able to use the NuBall this past weekend. Two of my lane masters didn't produce oil, but one of the storm ball's did - 20 mins in the nuball. Other lane masters owned by a friend, well his equipment didn't bleed oil too.
I guess the brand too makes a difference lol
Were they the original LM balls or the newer ones?
I knew the original company used some special expensive resins that absorbed very little oil.
Plus some of those coverstocks were over 2" thick.
All LM balls done in the NuBall were from current production. For a small company, the late Tony M. done real good with these balls.
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Yea, crazy and scary at the same time. I took the balls out every 20-30 minutes to wipe off oil and finish off with ball cleaner. After a couple of hours, I was afraid I was bleeding plastizer and other resin chemicals from the balls. But in the end, they all reacted like NIB.
NuBall does work when there is oil to extract.
Yup. There was a vast improvement in ball motion for the bleeders I did. Three that I remember specifically were a Crux, Amp Up, and an old purple Triton. I'll likely never get as much oil out of my own stuff, but there's still some and it's really nice to have a NuBall unit. Afterall getting the equipment for my teammates in shape benefits me on league nights as well. :D