I really struggle on our fresh pattern and figured it is from my lack of spinning the ball and the beat up hpl’s I bowl on  I’ve tried plenty of balls and layouts with not much luck. Anyone try a drilling something with a strong cover weak such as a 51/2” pin from pap and work well?  I”m really considering it

Leaning on the wild streak or the money badger tour with room for some surface adjustments

for the most part the ball will not carry very well. plenty of flat tens,8 pins,7 10 splits,just about anything and everything you can think of. tried 3 different asyms with poor results. Conspiracy theory with different surfaces from 2k to polish hooke a plenty and I could play as far as 5 th arrow, 7inches of track flair.poor results. creed rebellion with 5 inch pin to pap pin up hooked in the early mids and rolled straight,poor entry unless I could play up ten. dv8 freak show with 2k sanded looks good on fresh but quickly pukes in the mids and skates around on the back. drilled 70x41/2"x35. boost hybrid sanded 5k works good after a game and a half drilled 70x41/2"x35. too erratic on the fresh. old hpl's with a fairly long med flat pattern,not a house shot. most other bowler's use very strong equipment with good results here,not me. speed is 16-17 and rev dom. urethane has been really good or really bad depending how the other player's break down the shot.

This is what I have learned from my experiences.  Long patterns tend not to be heavy patterns volume wise.  So what happens is the front part of the lane burns up pretty quickly.  But when you move inside, the pattern still plays long.  So you take something aggressive to play inside but you lack the entry angle thus leaving the flat 10s.  The Freak Show at 2000 looks good on fresh but quickly pukes.  That means the sanded cover is helping to burn up the oil in the heads.  But your Boost at 5000 is too erratic probably because it isnt burning enough energy in the heads and probably wants to go sideways on the back end on those HPLs. 

My suggestion without seeing the ball physically go down the lane would be to adjust the cover of the Boost down to 3000 to take away some of the erratic motion and smooth it out a touch.  The Boost is a higher RG and med-high diff ball making it skid flippy especially if the pattern is playing longer.  The ball cant bleed off any energy until the back end of the lane.  The Freak Show has a pretty strong core as it is both low RG and high diff.  I think with the 2000 surface to go along with the strong core, its the reason the ball gets pukey.  I would take that ball up to 4000 to see if it would make it more playable for a longer period of time and then when it does get pukey, ball down the the Boost and move inside a pinch and bump the track area. 

Since it sounds like the volume is not very heavy in the heads, I would start with a mid performance symmetrical with 3000-4000 surface and then when the shot breaks down, move inside with the same ball until carry goes away.  Then you move to more of a higher RG high diff ball like thr Boost and move inside and bump the track area. 

Just makes no sense that guys are killing it with heavy hitters and I have to use entry level stuff with surface   Seems like I”m missing something

Yeah.  But you being rev dominate on a beat up lane surface is why you may not be matching up like others have.  My thought is that you need balls that are cleaner through the front but not overly aggressive on the backend.  I honestly think based on what you are saying is something like an Emerald IQ would work well.  The R2S Pearl cover would help with getting through the front part of the lane and the lower diff would help to control the erratic behavior you see from the Boost. 

Technically, unless you drill every ball with the pin 3-3/8 inches from pap, you're drilling a ball weaker. I still haven't drilled an assym with a short pin to pap, but for me, symmetrical stuff with the pin 5 inches from pap vs 2 inches from pap reads friction and shapes differently, but covers similar amounts of boards. If I'm trying to use something with a longer pin, it's because I'm reading the lane more front to back. The shorter pins let me smooth out the left to right.

I haven’t had much luck with asymmetrical balls  short pins read way too early and long pins had little shape if any. I could see a long pin playing front to back but it’s gonna be short lived and not very versatile. With this wild streak I could cange releases and still had a good look playing front to back and side to side. But was not my lanes so Ill see how it goes when I get mine

I think that was the point of the Wild Streak. It's a very release-versatile ball. Gives you what you put into it.

I haven’t had much luck with asymmetrical balls  short pins read way too early and long pins had little shape if any. I could see a long pin playing front to back but it’s gonna be short lived and not very versatile. With this wild streak I could cange releases and still had a good look playing front to back and side to side. But was not my lanes so Ill see how it goes when I get mine

When drilling an asymmetrical ball, it's the MB placement and pin buffer distance that is more important than the pin distance when trying to get the ball to go through the pins correctly, especially for a low axis tilt player. You can still use a "normal" pin distance, but kick the MB to 5" or possibly longer, depending on your ball speed. This helps an asymmetrical ball shape more like a symmetrical, but still have the defined move through the pins. There is a good chance that the asymmetrical balls you have are spinning up too fast.

 The pin buffer distance will help determine how sharp the move is when coming out of the oil. Close to VAL will equal a sharper move, longer pin buffer distance will smooth out the shape with more continuation.