Quote from: ignitebowling on June 01, 2021, 08:01:58 AM

Pin to pap and surface is what matter.

If you have a rev rate over 500 then if the pin is up or down may slightly affect reaction but likely not enough to care.

You can drill the fingers deeper and affect your core numbers by .00? which is not going to be a factor, other then to say you did.

Focus on pin to PAP, surface, and making sure it doesn't flare over the fingers.

Thanks for the help. I asked the question mainly for two reasons, the biggest one being it's been years since I've seen any guidance on what to do with pancake balls, and the last detailed guidance, a sheet from Columbia 300, came back when we could still drill a crater weight hole in one and do a Rico drilling or something similar to it.

The second reason is that I know even though a pancake block is not dynamic in any way, it's at least something, and I was wondering if statics would allow, would "saving" the whole block if possible allow me to create some instability/flare in the ball. I'll be drilling up an old AMF Angle LD, which was introduced in 1987, so the potential here goes down even further. The response I want is something I can go direct up the boards with when the lanes are really trash. Keeping in mind Mo Pinel's advice on staying away from certain pin-to-PAP distances for two-handers -- and knowing I won't get but one shot at finding a NIB Angle LD -- I don't want to mess this up.

Jess

Quote from: ignitebowling on June 01, 2021, 09:17:25 PM

Just missed out on a 15lb nib one of those on ebay.  With the new static weight rules the options for getting any desired pin to pap and no issues of needing a weight hole to make it legal like under the old rules you should be good on any option. Drilled an original Groove Urethane and added a large p3 hole to it.  End results were minimal on increased flare.  In most cases when using blueprint software adding a weight hole didnt increase overall hook,  it changed where the ball hooked/shape.

I love the older Columbia Scout series that uses a pancake core with mild resin coverstock.  It hooks more then you expect and is extremely smooth. You should really enjoy the Angle...as l9ng as it doesn't flare your fingers lol its full proof


You can get a similar idea by going and throwing a urethane house ball.  Its pancake and urethane and will get you really close on what to expect from the new AMF ball. You can also have your local shop order you a house ball undrilled to test first before drilling the Angle.

Yeah, you're talking to the guy who beat you out for the ball ... :p  Sorry about that!

There's another one listed for a whopping $280. That's a whole separate post: All of a sudden the moment anything goes out of production, it becomes "rare" and demands three hundred bucks -- whether it was a high-performance ball in its day or not.

The first NIB ball I bought for myself long ago was a Purple Angle. I also had the gray Ammo, which might as well have been in the Angle series. I later had the Blue LD, a gold Angle and one of the army gray ones. I can't remember what the difference was supposed to be between a Blue LD and an Orange LD.

As for legal statics, back in the day I bought a couple of X-out balls that were X'ed for high top weight. I've got a Storm Paradigm sitting out in the shop that I doubt will be legal once I plug the thumb hole and weight hole. It had 5+ ounces of top weight when I bought it. But somehow we got it statically legal. We ended up with the pin almost on the VAL about 6 inches above my old 4-over, 3/8-up PAP, the MB was somewhere left of the track and the CG mark was on the bottom of the ball (it was "pro CG" in addition to having top weight problems). I loved it to death and somehow I still have it 20 years later, without any cracks in it anywhere (the original Paradigms cracked worse than a carton of eggs in the hands of a two-year-old).

Jess