Post by: BIGJOEPAPA727 on September 22, 2008, 11:58:30 AM
My question is, is there a ball/drilling/surface prep that can help me get through the heads, control the backend and still carry?
I've tried a Groove Urethane, Neptune, Avalanche Solid,(I think the drilling I threw on it wasn't the best for what I wanted it for), Tropical Storm, and the Bashes. I just want to see what everyone says about this issue because I'm kinda running out of ideas.
Thanks in advance everyone
Post by: JD74 on September 22, 2008, 08:09:11 PM
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BOWL TO WIN!
Edited on 9/22/2008 8:52 PM
Post by: tenpin477 on September 22, 2008, 08:36:29 PM
Plastic with a real core, really can't go wrong there for dry lanes.
Post by: KennyRambo on September 22, 2008, 08:46:53 PM
Post by: BIGJOEPAPA727 on September 22, 2008, 08:52:37 PM
quote:
Move left.
When your standing on 40 lofting the heads, missing 2 boards either way and going face, I find it hard to consistently score, so I want to find something i can produce a little more area with on house shots.
The man that owns the pro shop in the alley I go to is on Hammer staff, and he told me the Razyr would be too strong off the dry for my type of game.
I was looking into the XXXL but I was never really sure what to expect with it because I've never seen anyone throw it.
Thanks for everyones response so far, keep 'em coming =]
Post by: StormFreak5552 on September 22, 2008, 09:04:19 PM
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When life gives you lemons, throw them at people, you won't have any lemonade but at least you'll feel better!
Storm Gravity Shift
Storm Attitude Shift
Storm Spit Fire
Ebonite Elemental Ice
Brunswick Power Groove
Post by: JD74 on September 22, 2008, 09:07:17 PM
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BOWL TO WIN!
Post by: BIGJOEPAPA727 on September 22, 2008, 09:09:22 PM
quote:
If its going to be too strong with a normal drill, why not drill the Razyr with a pin in axis drill or something to tame down the reaction or take the cover down a little on it so it doesnt snap off the dry and it would make a smoother transition. I have 500 rpms (2 hands), so I know where your coming from.
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BOWL TO WIN!
Sounds like a good idea, I've never experemented with 2" or closer drills, maybe thats something I should try.
Post by: David Lee Yskes on September 22, 2008, 11:26:34 PM
I'd say, something like the Tropic Storm or a old Big Hit, or just something with a very mild reactive cover, and polish the CRAP outa it, like Diamond gloss or something....
ALso, you want a ball with a higher top weight above 3.5 is good, and a bigger pin too, like 3.5 to 4 so you can put the pin high above your fingers, and have the CG in a weak spot.
The Lane1 XXL is a good idea if you can find one!!!!!!!!
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" Lift Your Skirt Grab Your Balls and Learn How to Bowl "
Post by: scotts33 on September 22, 2008, 11:35:30 PM
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Scott
Post by: KennyRambo on September 23, 2008, 12:11:20 AM
I've stood on 60 lofting the left gutter and found ways to score, you can move farther left than 40.
quote:quote:
Move left.
When your standing on 40 lofting the heads, missing 2 boards either way and going face, I find it hard to consistently score, so I want to find something i can produce a little more area with on house shots.
The man that owns the pro shop in the alley I go to is on Hammer staff, and he told me the Razyr would be too strong off the dry for my type of game.
I was looking into the XXXL but I was never really sure what to expect with it because I've never seen anyone throw it.
Thanks for everyones response so far, keep 'em coming =]
Post by: BIGJOEPAPA727 on September 23, 2008, 07:18:09 AM
quote:
You STOOD on 40? What board are you hitting at the arrows?
I've stood on 60 lofting the left gutter and found ways to score, you can move farther left than 40.
The point I was trying to make was, when everyone is playing the lane right of 4th arrow averaging 240 and I'm trying to loft the heads struggling to go even, there has to be enough out there to enable me to play more of my "comfort zone" I just dont have a piece in my hand that I can do that with.
Post by: KennyRambo on September 23, 2008, 04:50:06 PM
Have you tried plastic? Usually when the lanes get that fried it can be a pretty good option.
Post by: dukeblue87 on September 23, 2008, 04:58:39 PM
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Michael Nelson
Northern Illinois University Bowling
Post by: chrisleftwich on September 23, 2008, 04:59:47 PM
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Chris Leftwich
Active Duty Coast Guard member.
Post by: Zanatos1914 on September 23, 2008, 05:01:23 PM
The best ball for that condition would be the XXXL...
Also you might try not lining up with your shoulders square @ the lanes..
That will help also...
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2 Fingers 4 Life
I Am The 3 Fingers Nightmare
Post by: cheech on September 23, 2008, 05:14:22 PM
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HG:300x2(SR300 both)289(sawblade)280(SR300)
HS:792(SR300)778(SR300)778(SR300/Dr.Jekyll)
bowling for 13years
17 years old
2004 NYSPHSAA team champions
Post by: APheLion on September 23, 2008, 05:18:30 PM
and im right now practicing the deep inside, maybe my case is even worse, cuz im not bowling on a 40ft ths, im bowling on something close to 34 or 35.
ok, one is deep inside, the other is my straight game, using something very smooth, i'll pop it off on the left side from 5 to 13 board straight down to the brooklyn side. since the left side always has some oil, the shot should be consistent and will depend on ur luck and accuracy.
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When a house bowler misses the mark, misses the break point and strike, for many ppl its called a wallshot. When a pro does that its call adjustment
When a house bowler gets his finger stuck in the ball and fall on the lanes, for many ppl its called lame bowler. When a pro does that its called the Machuga flop! ha i like this one.
Post by: se7en on September 24, 2008, 11:15:56 AM
BTM's chart lists the MoRich Mojave OFF the chart on the weak side. Looks like something to consider.
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There is nothing so easy to learn as experience and nothing so hard to apply.
Post by: BIGJOEPAPA727 on September 24, 2008, 12:42:01 PM
quote:
My experience with the XXXL on conditions like that is where you can have an easy time hitting the pocket with excellent control, you'll struggle with carrying the corner pin or sometimes even the 5 pin, heh. But at least you'll be hitting the pocket! High flush or bust basically. It wont splash pins around on light hits.
BTM's chart lists the MoRich Mojave OFF the chart on the weak side. Looks like something to consider.
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There is nothing so easy to learn as experience and nothing so hard to apply.
I was really looking at the MoJave with a pin close or on my axis layout, but I did not pull the trigger because of the price tag haha, I'd need to consider the options first.
Post by: Mark T. Trgovac on September 24, 2008, 01:06:50 PM
I would try something with a weak reactive cover and a real long pin. The Link is a great ball for this. Something pin out that pushes a blem so you can put the pin on your val to help it be smooth on the backend but far from you PAP so it still helps it push through the heads. The long pin will help you be able to kick the cg closer to your center of grip that way you can limit how big or even if you need a weight hole. When it comes to weaker equipment like that you dont want to alter the core shape anymore then you have to.
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Mark "scoot" Trgovac
C-G Pro Shop
Official "Spokesman"
Youngstown, Ohio
Track HITMAN.
Tag Team Coaching Success Story.
Happily distributing the red pills of CGNOMADDA. "if you take this pill, YOUR MIND WILL BE OPEN TO A WORLD OF NEW IDEAS."
Post by: smer on September 24, 2008, 09:42:56 PM
Post by: TheIronMan on September 25, 2008, 05:12:05 AM
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www.buildanarsenal.com
Edited on 9/25/2008 7:17 AM
Post by: Curly on September 25, 2008, 06:32:55 AM
Ever try coming straight up the back? Take away the revs, move right, and let the ball just roll up into the pocket. VERY effective......
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FOS
Post by: BIGJOEPAPA727 on September 25, 2008, 06:51:13 AM
quote:
If you are looking at the pin close to axis or on PAP layout, you will want to watch where you track. If you track close to your thumb this kind of layout can cause you to thumb over your thumb.
I would try something with a weak reactive cover and a real long pin. The Link is a great ball for this. Something pin out that pushes a blem so you can put the pin on your val to help it be smooth on the backend but far from you PAP so it still helps it push through the heads. The long pin will help you be able to kick the cg closer to your center of grip that way you can limit how big or even if you need a weight hole. When it comes to weaker equipment like that you dont want to alter the core shape anymore then you have to.
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Mark "scoot" Trgovac
C-G Pro Shop
Official "Spokesman"
Youngstown, Ohio
Track HITMAN.
Tag Team Coaching Success Story.
Happily distributing the red pills of CGNOMADDA. "if you take this pill, YOUR MIND WILL BE OPEN TO A WORLD OF NEW IDEAS."
This sounds like something I should look into. I've drilled equipment with the pin under and to the left of my middle finger (I'm a righty) and did not track over the thumb, so I should be fine with that.
I'm working on developing different hand positions and releases too, I'm experementing with that.
Edited on 9/25/2008 6:54 AM
Post by: Mark T. Trgovac on September 25, 2008, 10:44:05 AM
quote:quote:
If you are looking at the pin close to axis or on PAP layout, you will want to watch where you track. If you track close to your thumb this kind of layout can cause you to thumb over your thumb.
I would try something with a weak reactive cover and a real long pin. The Link is a great ball for this. Something pin out that pushes a blem so you can put the pin on your val to help it be smooth on the backend but far from you PAP so it still helps it push through the heads. The long pin will help you be able to kick the cg closer to your center of grip that way you can limit how big or even if you need a weight hole. When it comes to weaker equipment like that you dont want to alter the core shape anymore then you have to.
--------------------
Mark "scoot" Trgovac
C-G Pro Shop
Official "Spokesman"
Youngstown, Ohio
Track HITMAN.
Tag Team Coaching Success Story.
Happily distributing the red pills of CGNOMADDA. "if you take this pill, YOUR MIND WILL BE OPEN TO A WORLD OF NEW IDEAS."
This sounds like something I should look into. I've drilled equipment with the pin under and to the left of my middle finger (I'm a righty) and did not track over the thumb, so I should be fine with that.
I'm working on developing different hand positions and releases too, I'm experementing with that.
Edited on 9/25/2008 6:54 AM
The clipping of the thumb would happen because you already track close to your thumb. The closer a person who tracks close to the thumbs puts the pin to there PAP, they can start to clip. This is the oppisit for someone who tracks high. The further they go from PAP the better the chance for them to clip there fingers. If you have taken your pin left of middle and have been fine this says you track even or closer to your thumb. This is a safe spot for pin positions for guys who track close to the thumb. So do watch if you go close to PAP.
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Mark "scoot" Trgovac
C-G Pro Shop
Official "Spokesman"
Youngstown, Ohio
Track HITMAN.
Tag Team Coaching Success Story.
Happily distributing the red pills of CGNOMADDA. "if you take this pill, YOUR MIND WILL BE OPEN TO A WORLD OF NEW IDEAS."
Post by: smer on September 25, 2008, 02:53:53 PM
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Chuck Norris doesn't do pushups. He pushes the earth down....
Post by: smer on September 25, 2008, 03:06:15 PM
I got a ball with very low top weight, 2 oz. at most. Then drilled the fingers deeper to take out the excess weight. Tried to leave as close to 1 oz. finger weight as I could for the lengh factor. Side weight was not a factor as the cg was fairly close to the middle of the grip. Ball is within the weight limits.If it would have needed a balance hole I would have had to check with someone on the best place to put it. Not sure how the position of the balance hole would affect a ball drilled in this way.
Post by: dougb on September 26, 2008, 12:28:59 AM
My friend is destroying pins with his Lane #1 Bullet. Right up the 3rd arrow and into the pocket.
The ball is discontinued. but look around and they are out there (new and used). I just bought one from a user on this board. I get it tomorrow and can't wait to drill it up and try it out!
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In The Bag:
Storm Gravity Shift
Storm T-Road Pearl
Brunswick BVP Wizard
Columbia 300 White Dot - Blue Pearl (spare ball)
Post by: River700 on September 26, 2008, 12:45:29 AM
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If your going to bowl...bowl for fun or go home
Edited on 9/26/2008 0:48 AM
Post by: janderson on September 26, 2008, 02:03:38 PM
quote:
My question is, is there a ball/drilling/surface prep that can help me get through the heads, control the backend and still carry?
Ball? Weak covers, High-RG, Low-Diff cores. Get away from reactive anything if the lane is hooking enough. Pearlized Urethane and plastic are your friends.
Drilling? Weak drilling. Pin-on-track and pin-on-axis are not popular layouts, but they're just what the doctor ordered when the lanes are fried. With fried heads, pin-on-track is the better option.
Surface prep? Polish, polish, and more polish.
Also consider:
- The John-Jowdy drag shot, as previously suggested
- Tilt-roll, ala Tom Baker. Spin the ball through the heads
- Use less revs. No brainer, but so unpopular, I'm afraid to even mention it.
- More speed
- Move your break point in. If outside of 10 is fried and your ball is overreacting out there, why are you throwing it there?
Lofting the heads, IMHO, is a mistake in this situation for 99.9% of bowlers, because lofting will usually cause the bowler to hit up on the ball. That just creates an even stronger back end when you least want it.
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J.J. "Waterola Kid" Anderson, the bLowling King : Kill the back row