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Author Topic: Strong drills on weak balls?  (Read 3155 times)

strikestriketapped

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Strong drills on weak balls?
« on: July 29, 2011, 03:16:45 PM »
What's the purpose of putting a strong layout on a weak ball? For example, why would a Brunswick Slingshot drilled 4" pin to PAP, pin below the fingers, be useful? Not saying that it wouldn't be, just asking what the intention is. Does a strong layout on a weak ball still give you a weak reaction, but provide a less erratic reaction than let's say that same Slingshot drilled 5.5" pin to PAP?
 
 
The reason I ask is because I have a Damage drilled 5.5" pin to PAP, pin over. I have a used Slingshot I would like to get plugged and fitted to my hand. I was thinking of keeping the same layout, which is about 3.5" from my PAP. How much weaker would the ball truly be if I went with 5" pin to PAP, instead?
 
Edited by strikestriketapped on 7/29/2011 at 11:18 PM

 

charlest

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Re: Strong drills on weak balls?
« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2011, 07:42:23 AM »
Strong drills on weaker balls make sense for people with a high degree of ball speed or whose ball speed is much higher than their rev rate. They usually need more "ball" (and/or more surface) in their hand to compensate for their speed.
 
On a ball with a very low differential (.027"), such as the Slingshot, going from a 3.5" pin-PAP to a 5" pin-PAP should not change the flare by a significant degree. What it might and should change is the RG, allowing more length for a rev dominant player or allow a ball to be used for both a spare ball and a dry lanes strike ball.
 
Going in the other direction, from a 5"+ pin-PAP to a 3" pin-PAP, might if the pin-CG is long enough  allow the driller to use a P3 or P4 weight hole to increase the flare potential for the speed dominant player.


"None are so blind as those who will not see."

 
 
Edited by charlest on 7/30/2011 at 8:37 PM
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Russell

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Re: Strong drills on weak balls?
« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2011, 07:36:55 PM »
Actually that has always been a philosophy of mine to an extent.  Many times when a weak ball is drilled weak it gets very squirty and hard to control downlane.  Putting a little bit of flare in them tends to mellow out the downlane move and make them more useful.  To me the 6" of less skid is worth the more controllable motion.  I'm not saying drill them leverage, but instead of a 5.5" pin to PAP use a 4.5".


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kidlost2000

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Re: Strong drills on weak balls?
« Reply #3 on: July 30, 2011, 07:55:56 PM »
What charlest is said pretty spot on.
 
Keep in mind your drilling the ball to compliment what the ball is intended for and the bowler. If you have a ball such as a Slingshot intended for drier lanes/lighter oil,  no drill pattern will change that ball to work great for heavy oil. You want to drill the ball to match your style and desired shot for what the ball is intended.
 
Even an aggressive ball drilled with what is considered a weaker drilling will not change completely what the ball is and make it a great dry lane ball. Same thing for a weaker ball. For most average bowlers why would you want to drill this ball on a weaker pattern when in most cases the bowler may not be able to use it? Match the pattern to the bowler, and the ball to the intended purpose. 


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Re: Strong drills on weak balls?
« Reply #4 on: July 31, 2011, 05:37:46 AM »
Assuming that I am using the weaker ball on dry lanes, the LAST thing I want is a ball that is skid/snap. Thus, I will usually put a stronger layout on it to make it more predictable late on the lane. I can always change length with surface adjustments. To each their own though.
 
 


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dizzyfugu

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Re: Strong drills on weak balls?
« Reply #5 on: August 01, 2011, 05:31:10 AM »
A strong layout gets the ball into its stable end roll quickly - and that can be a good option with a weak core/cover combo. That's what I would keep in kind when I chose the setup. A strong layout on a weak ball just defines the ball's utility - and you can actively exploit that.

 

Personally, I (still) have a Slate Blue Gargoyle which was drilled more or less 4x4 - pretty strong for a dry lane ball. I was scepctical first, but this setup helps the ball to finish well (I have rather medium revs and lower ball speed). The cover is so weak (still OOB after 4 years or so...) and it has little traction. On light oil and carrydown the ball would hardly function at all for me. But the strong layout stablizes its roll early, so that the breakpoint hazards are pretty small. On truly burnt lanes the ball will hook early, though, just as it is defined by the layout, but it is smooth and easy to control. And length is, thanks to the hard and non-porous shell, not an issue at all.

 

Besides the core influence on reaction, you still have to take into account the cover's responsiveness to friction. Just as CharlesT explained: a strong setup can help stablize the ball early. If you play with lots of side roll and aheva responsive cover, you might experience a jumpy breakpoint because the core is with a weaker layout still migrating towards its stable roll axis. A strong layout speeds this transition up.

 

Aside from that, 3.5" from PAP is a much different thing than 5". With the pin that close you get a strong axis layout, which gets the ball into a very early roll and an arcing hook. The 5" pin would go much longer and break much more sharply, probably needing lees head oil because of the delayed reaction. On a Slingshot, though, a 3,5" in would be a control ball option, esp. with higher ball speeds.


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strikestriketapped

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Re: Strong drills on weak balls?
« Reply #6 on: August 01, 2011, 08:02:48 PM »
Dizzy, if I want this ball to be a step below my Damage and a step above my Natural, would 3.5 or 5" be better? I'm hoping that the Slingshot would be a ball that I could use when lanes break down and allow me to stay right instead of having to swing the lane, which is definitely NOT my "A" game.


dizzyfugu

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Re: Strong drills on weak balls?
« Reply #7 on: August 02, 2011, 04:43:22 AM »
IMO, both setups are viable option - you just get very different reaction from it. The 3.5" pin would be easier to control, smoother, early rolling and arcing. You might even find the ball rolling dead if you do not put some juice into the release. The 5" pin is the more versatile option, IMO, behaving more like a "normal" reactive, later and flippier. If you want to use the ball on drier lanes or conadiotion where the heads have gone, I'd rather suggest the 5" option. But keep in mind that I do not know your bowling style, it is just a guesstimate based on the information at hand. ;)


DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany
2010/11 Benrather BC Club Champion
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