BallReviews
General Category => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: pears on February 07, 2017, 09:59:27 PM
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How/when do you decide that a ball just isnt for you?
Im considering selling or putting aside my snap lock. I have tried a cover stock change already (4k grit) because I didnt like how long it was. Now it is doing what it is supposed to do, but for the most part I just dont feel its me. Now, my Code black on the other hand is a whole nother beast. Everything about that ball feels right. For the record though, they are each drilled with a different layout. Is it worth maybe drilling a different layout on the snap lock or do I just get rid of it. When is enough, enough.
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I give up on a ball once I personally feel like it's just not for my game and where I typically bowl. I feel like there are too many balls on the market to get too hung up one. So far, the Haywire is the only ball I've had that happen with in the last year. I tried surface changes/houses/patterns and never felt like I would get much utility out of it so I sold it.
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For me it depends on if I feel like the ball is overlapping another.
If I see the potential of the ball fitting where I want it, I'll plug and redrill.
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It depends on how I feel about the ball and what it's doing that I don't like.
There's always 2 adjustments you can make to a ball: surface and drilling. Surfaces are easy to change; drilling is slightly more work, time and money. I always change the surface when a new ball isn't working, up or down, dull or polished. If that doesn't work, it is entirely possible that the ball was drilled not quite right for you, your release or the oil you're using it on.
If it's an expensive ball like the Snap Lock, I'd have it plugged and redrilled. If the pin is off by as little as 3/4 - 1" and especially if the MB is off by the any amount, those are 2 potentially huge differences in ball reaction.
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I think it is when there is no more room in our bag and you set it aside. When you don't pick it up for a while and don't miss it, then it is probably time. I recently went to go to a Storm/Roto demo day. I tried 4 balls from different angles, 5-10-15-20 boards, to see which ones worked for me. I already have a Code black, but it is a different drill from mine. Code black with a different drill was smoother off the break point. Dare Devil and Wreck-em both started up too soon. Couldn't get them down the lane to where I needed them. Had the same issue with the Wrecker when I owned one. Street Fight got down the lane without any problem and had enough energy to carry from the outside. No Rules Pearl was the only ball that got down the lane for me and was still recover from all four angles that I tried. The balls that started up early would only work for me from 3rd and 4th arrow. Street fight couldn't recover from 3rd or 4th arrow. If I do buy a new ball for shorter or lighter oil, it will be the Street fight. For an all around ball, it will be the No Rules. Sorry this turned out to be my review of the balls. What I am saying is, a ball you are giving up on now may be a great ball in a different house or tournament. De-oil and resurface the balls you are not using, put it on the shelf and take it with you if you have to bowl in a tournament at a different house. Many bowlers have pulled an old ball out the the closet and bowled great with them. Could be you are trying to do something with them that they are not designed to do.
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I will add that when I bought the snap lock, it was ordered and drilled just through talks of what I wanted in a ball. Pso never saw me throw a ball, just went off what he was told to do. I was bowling well with it but it needed a couple tweeks for comfort. I had to go with oval finger tips instead of the power lift, had a thumb solid installed to control my sticking thumb, and had a surface change. Three key item in my mind. I have thought about a re-drill to match my code black but what if I still dont like the ball, now I've stuck more money into it...ugh.
Its just a ball right....
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I will add that when I bought the snap lock, it was ordered and drilled just through talks of what I wanted in a ball. Pso never saw me throw a ball, just went off what he was told to do. I was bowling well with it but it needed a couple tweeks for comfort. I had to go with oval finger tips instead of the power lift, had a thumb solid installed to control my sticking thumb, and had a surface change. Three key item in my mind. I have thought about a re-drill to match my code black but what if I still dont like the ball, now I've stuck more money into it...ugh.
Its just a ball right....
I don't redrill a ball because of that. I don't sink more into a plug and drill and also dropped the resale value more being a second drill.
I do redrill a ball that I bought as a single drill and it doesn't fit my hand or a layout I would use but that's beside the point. I'm relating to redrilling a ball I bought new. I try what my PSO thinks should be the best fit drilling. If that seems off, I play with surface. If I still can't dial it in within the 3 very different houses I bowl in, I sell it as a SD- low game ball to recoup some money.
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I don't redrill a ball because of that. I sink more into a plug and drill and also dropped the resale value more being a second drill.
I do redrill a ball that I bought as a single drill and it doesn't fit my hand or a layout I would use but that's beside the point. I'm relating to redrilling a ball I bought new. I try what my PSO thinks should be the best fit drilling. If that seems off, I play with surface. If I still can't dial it in within the 3 very different houses I bowl in, I sell it as a SD- low game ball to recoup some money.
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This is what I may end up doing.
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I have a ball currently I can't seem to do well with. The LT-48 has the same layout I use in all my THS balls. 4 x 4 x 2.
It's sitting in the storage cause I can't seem to get this ball going even after surface changes. I'll be bowling at another house next season, so I'll wait and see then. If that doesn't work, I'll do the PnR since it doesn't cost me much to do. but at the same time, I still got to figure out a layout....
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This is why I only have 2 or 3 layouts I use. I know what the pin up, pin down and pin down with hole will do. 5 inch pins all around, usually either a 65 degree or 35ish degree. I don't do extra holes on pin ups anymore. I look at core shape, numbers, and coverstock. From there, I have a basic idea of what I want the ball to do and where it will fit. Then I go throw it. I can usually tell within a couple of games if the surface is right for me. If it doesn't work for me, I will either sell it or give it to someone else. I rarely put another layout on a ball.
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This is why I only have 2 or 3 layouts I use. I know what the pin up, pin down and pin down with hole will do. 5 inch pins all around, usually either a 65 degree or 35ish degree. I don't do extra holes on pin ups anymore. I look at core shape, numbers, and coverstock. From there, I have a basic idea of what I want the ball to do and where it will fit. Then I go throw it. I can usually tell within a couple of games if the surface is right for me. If it doesn't work for me, I will either sell it or give it to someone else. I rarely put another layout on a ball.
Why do you avoid those now?
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I can usually tell within a couple of games if the surface is right for me..
1500 polished is the nut look for you, no? :P :P :P
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I used to use like a 5 inch pin to pap, 35 to 40 degrees with a hole on the pap to make the ball stand up hard then set up, but now that I am more up the back of the ball, it makes a ball terribly sensitive to the pattern. If I leak one into the dry too soon it hooks up too fast and trying to wheel it gets tricky. Also, if I leak it into the oil, it's going to skate.
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I can usually tell within a couple of games if the surface is right for me..
1500 polished is the nut look for you, no? :P :P :P
Oh. I see we want to engage in fisticuffs today!! :P :P :P
#ihate1500polished
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I can usually tell within a couple of games if the surface is right for me..
1500 polished is the nut look for you, no? :P :P :P
Oh. I see we want to engage in fisticuffs today!! :P :P :P
#ihate1500polished
As do I!
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Sooo if I do sell, what is a fair price on it???
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Sooo if I do sell, what is a fair price on it???
How many games on it and hows the condition look?
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Sooo if I do sell, what is a fair price on it???
How many games on it and hows the condition look?
20-30 games tops, maybe high. great condition
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Sooo if I do sell, what is a fair price on it???
How many games on it and hows the condition look?
20-30 games tops, maybe high. great condition
Id start at 80 shipped.
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Sooo if I do sell, what is a fair price on it???
How many games on it and hows the condition look?
20-30 games tops, maybe high. great condition
Id start at 80 shipped.
Thats about what I thought, second hand as a seller sucks for sure. Thanks for your feedback
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Soooo. I have decided to have the ball plugged. Ill eventually have it drilled with a different layout. I think for me to sell at this point I may regret it later. It is currently drilled pin up with weight hole. I think for me, a pin down set up would better compliment my style.
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I always try surface changes first, because that usually gets me close.
One thing I've always followed regarding layout: If a ball is drilled pin up and I can't get it right after surface changes, I can usually depend on it being better pin down, and vise versa. The layout change needs to be more substantial than barely moving the pin right or left slightly since I'm no throbot...
After drilling lots of balls over the past 12 years I have also decided to not get too exotic with layouts. I know what works for my game and so I tend to keep my pin placements in "an area" and then I don't need to worry about the layout, and just tune in the surface.
I have tweaked the surface on quite a few Snap Locks, and nearly always we start around the 2000 range to make it more predictable. Fine tuning only occasionally after that... Good luck.
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Going to 2000 grip might be an option also, I had the shine taken off with 4000 but I may need more. For me, ball for goes way long as it sits now.
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Not all balls work for everyone. Try a couple of things and move on. Sometimes you just don't match up. If you plug it you will have an even harder time selling. Personally, I will maybe try a surface change but if that doesn't work it's gone. I have had almost no luck ever getting a ball to get better over the long term no matter how I adjust it.
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Going to 2000 grip might be an option also, I had the shine taken off with 4000 but I may need more. For me, ball for goes way long as it sits now.
Adjust surface first. Surface adjustments are MUCH more preferable first as a starting point in manipulating ball motion vs a layout change. Exhaust all surface adjustments first..
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Going to 2000 grip might be an option also, I had the shine taken off with 4000 but I may need more. For me, ball for goes way long as it sits now.
Adjust surface first. Surface adjustments are MUCH more preferable first as a starting point in manipulating ball motion vs a layout change. Exhaust all surface adjustments first..
This sounds like the best option right now, cheaper for one plus it can be "undone" per say.
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Beaglebowl, I couldn't agree more with your statement; while plugging and redrilling does work for some bowlers' I will never go that route.
I trust my layout, and my PSO, with my stats, and will exhaust all possible surfaces, and then, bye bye, not for me. Styles makes balls, not the other way around.
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Surface for sure is a first option and an easy one to make significant changes. At this point, it looks like you've plugged but another option is to work on location of weight hole. That would be next if the ball is already drilled. Weight holes really do make an impact.
You could ask your ball driller to make the Snap Lock and Code Black compliments. The Snap Lock should be the stronger ball in terms of handling oil. You also may simply be seeing too little oil, where the Code Black matches up better than your Snap Lock for you.
In terms of layouts, I usually don't try a second layout either BUT... when I first got a Hyroad, I really didn't like the ball. Finally decided to plug and redrill and it turned into just about my favorite ball of all time...
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Surface for sure is a first option and an easy one to make significant changes. At this point, it looks like you've plugged but another option is to work on location of weight hole. That would be next if the ball is already drilled. Weight holes really do make an impact.
You could ask your ball driller to make the Snap Lock and Code Black compliments. The Snap Lock should be the stronger ball in terms of handling oil. You also may simply be seeing too little oil, where the Code Black matches up better than your Snap Lock for you.
In terms of layouts, I usually don't try a second layout either BUT... when I first got a Hyroad, I really didn't like the ball. Finally decided to plug and redrill and it turned into just about my favorite ball of all time...
I haven't had the snap lock plugged yet, I think at this point if I cant get what I want out of it with another surface change Ill decide to let it go. When I bought it I was fresh back into bowling after a few years off and wanted a strong back end ball and that is what I assume was told to the PSO. He knew nothing about my bowling style at all. He drilled it blind to who I was. I got a strong back end, pin up ball with a weight hole. After I got the ball I wasnt surprised to see how the ball was drilled because the person that I ordered the ball from drills his stuff that way. Not what I need at all for my style. When I got my Code black my PSO had a better understanding of what my style is and drilled it in that fasion. That ball honestly works very well for me. I bowl with a 17.5ish mph off the camera, I dont give a ball that much time to do the work for me. A pin up long ball doesnt work for me.
If Im wrong in my general thinking that, pin up = longer VS pin down = sooner read, please correct me. I know more play into it but in general.....