For me, the most user-friendly balls are the ones that want to roll in the midlane. Rolling too early hurts carry and uses up too much energy too soon (in case I pitch it out a little and need some recovery), while balls that roll too late typically exacerbate whatever's going on in the backends. So strong midlane balls are the best for me, and then I can adjust surface to tailor the reaction to my needs.
You actually have a two-part question here -- forgiving balls, then balls that work on dry conditions, because they're not necessarily the same. If I was going to try to find the intersection of those two, I would stay away from high-polish pearls. I'd either look at a medium ball from about 10-15 years ago and add polish as needed, or at a new ball like the Blue-Green Centaur from Visionary or the Chainsaw from Lane #1, something that has a mild surface but isn't so high-shined that it's going to do tricks when it sees friction.
Personally, I would not buy a Rayzr because I tend to have carry problems with any pancake-block ball. But I know a lot of people love them, so one could very well work for you.
Some of my dry-lane gear includes names like AMF XS, AMF Ultra C, Ebonite Matrix Conquest, stuff that was front-of-the-line when it was introduced but that has now been bypassed. Still works great on dryer conditions and wood lanes.
As for forgiving, most of the late Brunswick-poured Lane #1 stuff (especially the Tsunami) fits the bill. It tends to want to roll hard in the midlane and let me control the backend but the polished stuff takes the heads out of play somewhat. I think that's more important than whether it's symmetrical or asymmetrical.
Jess