BallReviews
General Category => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: joeyyant on September 11, 2015, 08:07:49 AM
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I am looking for a good low flaring bowling ball, something stronger than a urathane but a little weaker than a tropical heat. I had a strike king and a deep freeze article chill but both bowling balls gave me more hook on dry than what I was looking for. I was going to try either a ride or an arson low flare but with a weak layout. Any thoughts or suggestions because I can assume I can get this ball reaction pretty easy with the right layout. Thanks
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Have the Strike King for over 2 years now put an weight hole in it year and half ago brought it to about 1/2 negative it let's me play as long I can find some head oil so far haven't had any problems with dry lanes since the change.
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For Storm, you have the newer Ride and the older Tropical Breeze. Both of these balls will fit between urethane and the Tropical Heat. From what I have heard, the Ride is smoother than the Tropical Breeze.
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SuperNatural?
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I just picked up a Ride and it is so smooth. There is no jump to this ball at all. It rolls really nice and carries great for a lower priced ball. I can't believe the lack of oil early on in both of the houses I bowl in. I was using the Sky Rocket, but it was way too aggressive for the lanes. This is funny because I have it drilled for medium-dry lanes. I think the price of lane oil must have went up because I feel like I'm bowling in the Sahara Desert! LOL
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Man, weaker than a Tropical Heat? That may be tough to find in resin. I'm mostly a Brunswick/DV8/Radical guy at this point, but I still have the Tropical Heat pearl in my bag as a dry lane/spare ball. I took the surface on mine down to 500 to smooth it out and take away over/under, and I have been using it in place of my T-Zone as a spare ball. To me, the Strike King was noticeably stronger than my Trop. Heat. It still wasn't a "strong" ball by any stretch, but it was more ball than my Trop.
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Check out the Motiv site for your needs as they have several low flaring balls...
http://www.motivbowling.com/products/balls/
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I would also vote for the ride. Out of the box I could line up with it off my blue hammer. High rg and low flare almost make it act like a 3 piece ball. I have had really good luck with mine on fresh house shots. Much like urethane, you have to be able to square up with it. If I have to move in and go away much at all, the hit really drops off. If I can stay outside 10 board it will roll up hard, but more important it will find some hold area that would be non existent for any of my stronger stuff.
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While the Ride has similar strength to the Deep Freeze (Arctic Chill), The Tropical Breeze is a full notch weaker than either of them and weaker than the Strike King.
It is the current resin ball below which are only urethanes, such as the Blue Hammer. It is the weakest and mildest hooking ball currently sold by a major manufacturer with a real core. (Columbia and LaneMasters still market a plain resin with a pancake core; not sure it they are actually weaker than the TB.)
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Here's a few to consider from 900 Global: Boo-Yah! has a urethane cover, Chemical X has a medium strength cover and a low diff core for less flare, and the Break Down with a low diff core for less flare as well and a stronger cover over the Chemical X. Each of these will easily fill the roll as a low flaring ball. These also are very drill friendly, put your favorite layout on and they are ready to attack the lanes. Not to mention they are at reasonable price points as well. Hope this helps.
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Hammer arson low flare
very predictable weaker piece
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good timing on this post. I'm also looking for something for second shift league. My lowest flare ball has a hard timing staying right. And when I start moving in, I tend to get trapped with this ball. I can use other balls to play inside the track, but that leaves a lot of corners for me. Straighter angles gives me better carry percentage.
Sometimes guys can play outside, up the boards when the broken pattern is pushed out, but my equipment that I have all check up early - unless I throw like McCune.
Right now, I'm looking at the T Breeze...
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If you can fine one the Scream is a great choice also never too dry for it so far never own one but the new blue hammer went pretty straight for me used an friend one time it had less back-end than the Scream.
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Best second shift league ball I have used is the 900 global Breakdown, but with a low flaring drill on it. This causes a already low flaring ball to flare less....I would worry on the Chemical X as both of mine flare a little and hook more than my low flaring drilled breakdown.
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I have 2 arson low flare
Pin up and pin down
Factory surface is 500/1000 then clean n sheen polish which is a matte gritty polish
I bought some to replicate the factory finish
It is super smooth with regular polish as well
And I have a longish pin-pap layout
Both are 5" I believe
These are great on burned up heads and drier conditions IMO
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I like low flare on wet dry fresh shots or as a way to stay right. Normally I would go to a higher flaring pearl and follow the oil in on a second shift. Very difficult to stay right when the middles between 10 and 15 are blown up. My IQ tour and Ride are both low flare pieces with low and high rg respectively. Great balls, but neither hits good for me when I move in, and even the ride will start up early if I move toward the outside edge of the track area.
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Most of these recommended "low flare" balls are way stronger than urethane. The OP requested balls just barely stronger than urethane.
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I had the tropical heat hybrid (I liked it but most low end pieces respond to drastically off the friction). My speed sometimes causes a urethane to push too far, I had the pitch black and liked it. Trying to find a ball barely stronger than urethane probably depends more on layout as well. I am leaning towards the arson because hammer hasn't cracked on me yet. The breakdown looks interesting but not sure how 900 global is if there ball cracks.
Most of these recommended "low flare" balls are way stronger than urethane. The OP requested balls just barely stronger than urethane.
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Well. if he can throw 16 pounds, Bowlerscellar has been selling the blue-green centaur(Blems) on Ebay for 60 bucks I believe...that is a very weak resin ball that has been highly praised by quite a few people on this site over the years.
Brad
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Most of these recommended "low flare" balls are way stronger than urethane. The OP requested balls just barely stronger than urethane.
Totally agree. I was leery of suggesting the Ride.
Of the easy-to-find equipment, I would think the Tropical Breeze or maybe the Supernatural, though the Supernatural might be too similar to his urethane.
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Totally agree. I was leery of suggesting the Ride.
Of the easy-to-find equipment, I would think the Tropical Breeze or maybe the Supernatural, though the Supernatural might be too similar to his urethane.
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I had the supernatural and to be honest didn't give it much of a try. I have an older natural pearl sitting in my room that I am going to try just to see what happens.
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What part of the lane are you trying to play? Is this as the lanes are drying out, or on the fresh?
Low flare balls are designed to be clean through the front are respond quickly to friction. That is why most are also polished finish.
A higher flaring ball will respond slower to friction…… surface also responds slower to friction.
If you have a lower flaring ball already try hitting the surface with 2000, 3000, or 4000 grit. . The ball will pick up sooner but not be as jumpy off the friction.
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Why don't you try and pick up an older reactive resin piece like a Nitro or a Faball reactive? I had a Faball Norm Duke Signature Hammer and that ball allowed me to play straight all day to my heart's content.
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Box condition Ride was only marginally stronger than my Blue Hammer at 4000.
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Hmmm. I was really interested in getting a Ride because I thought it was low flaring as well, but I've seen two bowlers with Rides and in our house and that ball just revs up like crazy on the backend.
I'm thinking I'll just stick with my Sonic-X and my Link.....both with surface!
Overall, Gene's idea of the Tropical Breeze sounds to be the best, or if he could find an old Columbia Beast, that might fit the bill as well.
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Hammer arson low flare
very predictable weaker piece
I'm not a super fan of hammer but this ball is what it says it is. Balls gets down the lane with ease and has a nice predictable backend.
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To minimize flare use a flare reducing weight hole...this will make it easier to stay closer to the friction and close down angles
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Flare has nothing to do with rev rate. If you tear the cover off the ball it is going to hook in the dry whether it is a strong core asymmetric ( at one end of the scale ) or a low flare symmetric. Also the Ride in addition to being low flare is a high rg ball which means its rev rate will be a bit lower for any given release than will a low rg ball. One caveat. After putting about 50 games on my Ride it is clear that some of the tame reaction comes from the high polish box condition surface. I find my Ride to be getting a bit stronger as it tracks in.
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Flare has EVERYTHING to do with rev rate as that's what identifies the amount...a bowling ball at rest creates NOTHING...
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And rev rate is NOT the main factor in regards to attacking friction...you can have a 450 rev rate and zero degrees axis rotation and the amount of friction will be irrelevant...
If you take a medium diff core and layout it out in the 5-5.75" from pap and you add a flare reducing weight hole...it will ALLOW the player to play closer to the friction as well as close down their angles greatly...I have used this with numerous hi rev players SUCCESSFULLY...
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Not sure whether you can find one, but I picked up a Jet Pilot last year. Significantly weaker than any other reason balls, but just enough backend to finish. It allows me to play very straight...which normally is not the case/
Scott
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Flare increases toward its maximum potential the higher the rev rate. However it is rev rate, axis rotation, and friction that determines hook. If you have 450 rpm and strong axis rotation you are going to have trouble keeping the ball off the beak on toast, and less flare wont make any difference.
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Again I beg to extremely differ with you as I've laid out numerous pieces using this method rather successfully for staffers who's rev rate was well over 400-450...it allows the players to move closer to friction and shallow out angles...I'm not exactly sure where you're acquiring your data but I've seen multiple times
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Since it seems as if you don't understand 'hook' and/or flare I'll elaborate
Hook is any deviation of movement laterally as any point on the lane and is allowed by the combination of axis (side) rotation plus rev rate and more importantly the bowling ball slowing down caused by surface...flare only effects reaction if the bowling ball slows down and slows down properly...if you take a bowling ball and minimize the flare to nil it will create less overall reaction due to the core being or staying in a more stable position...flare is created by wobble or instability in the core which enhances movement...
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I have a Ride with 100X1 7/8 48. It is very smooth and it doesn't jump off friction. It reminds me of a cleaner urethane. While I like the drilling for my game, perhaps you should try the 5.75 ish pin from PAP. I guarantee you the ball will need some friction to make a move and a flare decreasing weight hole will help even more.
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My Desert Hook is great for the burn, but don't know if you can find one anymore.
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Man, weaker than a Tropical Heat? That may be tough to find in resin. I'm mostly a Brunswick/DV8/Radical guy at this point, but I still have the Tropical Heat pearl in my bag as a dry lane/spare ball. I took the surface on mine down to 500 to smooth it out and take away over/under, and I have been using it in place of my T-Zone as a spare ball. To me, the Strike King was noticeably stronger than my Trop. Heat. It still wasn't a "strong" ball by any stretch, but it was more ball than my Trop.
Wait the Tropical Heat was weak? As weak as the Loco Series?
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Columbia Scout with the pancake weight block is weakest low flaring reactive ball your going to find.Surprised nobody has mentioned it.Very cheap dry lane ball.The tiger eye scout is a good looking ball.
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Try and find a Brunswick Slingshot on eBay. More versatile than many other entry level balls with pancake weight blocks. I think it had .17 diff if not mistaken.
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How strong is the Scout's coverstock?
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Someone is selling a 15 pound used Lane #1 Pearl Viper on Ebay. That Ball has a very low flaring core and a mild cover I believe.
Brad
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Columbia Scout with the pancake weight block is weakest low flaring reactive ball your going to find.Surprised nobody has mentioned it.Very cheap dry lane ball.The tiger eye scout is a good looking ball.
Not sure about that. Differential on the Scout is .020 (pancake core or not); Differential on the Tropical Breeze is .009 and it's a true dynamic core. Coverstock on the Scout is Super-Flex; on the Trop. Br. it's Reactor, roughly comparable.