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Author Topic: Hook/Set Drillings  (Read 1865 times)

n00dlejester

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Hook/Set Drillings
« on: November 26, 2008, 11:42:50 AM »
I was inspired by another thread, and I didn't want to hijack:  How does one get a ball that's purely hook and set reaction?  I'd like to get one eventually for those over/under conditions.
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APheLion

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Re: Hook/Set Drillings
« Reply #1 on: November 26, 2008, 09:51:40 PM »
my hook and set is an angular one

pin above middle finger, cg in palm and mb at a strong position, thats about 6 inch pin to pap.

the ball wants to read early, even being a pearl, it doesnt go to the pocket then theres something wrong with the bowler
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charlest

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Re: Hook/Set Drillings
« Reply #2 on: November 27, 2008, 05:53:33 AM »
quote:
I was inspired by another thread, and I didn't want to hijack:  How does one get a ball that's purely hook and set reaction?  I'd like to get one eventually for those over/under conditions.
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One way is to buy it. The Danger Zone was the protypical hook and set reaction, in its day. I'm not sure any of today's balls would be defined as a hok and set. Any ball can be that for a bowler's release (ball speed/rev rate/tilt) on a specific oil pattern/condition.

Another way is to use a ball that's too strong for the amount of dry backends you're bowling on. Of course, you've seen it before, but this ball reaction puts your ball on the border line between roll out and the hook & set reaction. A drilling that could provoke this is old typical Walter Ray drill: pin over the ring finger, CG on the PAP (plus necessary weight hole).
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Edited on 11/27/2008 5:33 PM
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DP3

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Re: Hook/Set Drillings
« Reply #3 on: November 27, 2008, 09:59:06 AM »
Pin placement for length around 5-5 1/2" and 3.5-4" above the midline and enough of a C.G. migration to allow for a 1" drill bit, 3" deep on the bowler's PAP will yeild a hook/set/forward roll type reaction.
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n00dlejester

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Re: Hook/Set Drillings
« Reply #4 on: December 01, 2008, 07:37:01 AM »
Thanks for the info guys, I really appreciate it.  

APheLion - What about that drilling makes the ball hook and set?  I've had a similar drill on a ball without a marked mass bias, and once it sniffed the dry it just made a serious left turn.  I got it plugged, lol. But is it different for asymmetric balls?

Charlest, just out of curiosity:  Have you tried a drill like that yourself?  I've never ever thought about having a CG on PAP.  


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charlest

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Re: Hook/Set Drillings
« Reply #5 on: December 01, 2008, 08:34:27 AM »
quote:

Charlest, just out of curiosity:  Have you tried a drill like that yourself?  I've never ever thought about having a CG on PAP.  

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Nope. That's the last thing i want.
I do have an NIB ball perfect for that, a Radar Lock with a 5.5" pin to CG.
Don't forget a lot of this ball reaction is related to the surface + the core trying to do something and your rev rate and ball speed (and tilt and rotation) trying to counterbalance that.

On an asymmetric cored ball drilled with the MB too far towards the VAL, if the ball's surface doesn't allow enough length for your delivery, that ball CAN "take a set".
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Edited on 12/1/2008 12:09 PM
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Dan Belcher

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Re: Hook/Set Drillings
« Reply #6 on: December 01, 2008, 08:41:34 AM »
Don't forget that your release can also help create that hook/set motion.  Less axis rotation and axis tilt will get the ball to roll sooner and transition less when it does roll.  Combine this with friction and you get a motion where the ball certainly stops once it makes it move.  Of course, this also threatens to leave the flat 10 or flat 7 pretty easily if you aren't careful about your angles.

n00dlejester

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Re: Hook/Set Drillings
« Reply #7 on: December 01, 2008, 09:48:17 AM »
Would a ball with a pin under my grip center work for this?  Or a pin position near my thumb?
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