Author Topic: How Do You Attack Spotty Old Wood? (Read 2599 times)

Good Times Good Times · « **on:** February 18, 2011, 05:21:13 AM »

Lately on my Thursday night league my team (and the league in general) have really come across some medium-light oil spotty pairs that have played a little odd. The house is OLD wooden lanes with beat up heads and carry is relativley tough to come by. I welcome the challenge of this as it keeps a bowler sharp. I have found that AT TIMES bumping in with a bit of a stonger piece is good but other times it's better to ball way down and go very straight (up 7-8) with precise speed. The conditions i'm talking about are when you have a ball that you have "located" at the break point jump like crazy and leave a 3-6-10, then move 1 board left and throw the same shot and the ball never recovers and a 2-10 or a bucket is left.

I know what adjustments I need to make for my game, but for the sake of discussion, how does everyone attack spotty old wood pairs specifically that are playing very inconsistant? (It seems there is no one answer that is correct as so many VARIABLES are in play). What is your first initial instinct to make that move? What ball, layout. surface etc......?

Should make for an entertaining topic....

GetOffMe10Pin

-"If you want to make enemies, try to change something." - Woodrow Wilson

Edited by Good Times Good Times on 2/18/2011 at 2:23 PM

Sikfish · « **Reply #1 on:** February 18, 2011, 01:27:29 PM »

Good topic to "chat" about.

Me, I am going with a low rg/low diff ball....a pearl precisely, with a rolly layout (35 x 4 x 70) for me with 2000 ab + polish surface, or the option of a RICO layout seems to me as it may work also....IMHO

Brian

MOTIV Staff

www.motivbowling.com

NeumannKnight · « **Reply #2 on:** February 18, 2011, 01:48:07 PM »

throw urethane. it controls the wet/dry and spot breakpoints. just work on accuracy

I'm in the process of trying to find out where I fit in the bowling world. I do not know my tech specs of my game, but it's all a learning process.

MrPerfect · « **Reply #3 on:** February 18, 2011, 01:56:25 PM »

Yeah, +1 on Urethane. The issue with old wooden surfaces with beaten heads is how much friction is present. Often the fronts are so burned that even if there is some hold down lane you need to get through some major burn in order to take advantage of the hold. This can usually be accomplished with Urethane, but I must admit lately my Track Spare ball has been getting a ton of use in similiar situations.

vkowalski1970 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 18, 2011, 02:10:37 PM »

Are you sure you are not talking about friday night mens at Wheaton Bowl? LOL

Every week!! Last week I used a Bank Pearl way deep inside and shot well, week before I used a Red Backlash 15 boards right.....

Heads are fried most of the time, its so inconsistent I dont even know where to start most nights

JohnP · « **Reply #5 on:** February 18, 2011, 02:17:50 PM »

"How Do You Attack Spotty Old Wood?"

With a chainsaw and a chipper!

-- JohnP

mainzer · « **Reply #6 on:** February 18, 2011, 03:13:41 PM »

Urethane like a Desperado or Natural might be a good choice. Or a Better choice IMO is a strong reactive drilled weak. I bowl in a house during summers that has a similiar issue from time to time and weak drillings on strong reactive pearls work best for me to combat it. Allowing me to move out but still have a nice area to play.

"Complexity lay within the artistry of execution"

+++Henry Zou+++

Founding FatherBR Inquisition
MainzerPower

bullred · « **Reply #7 on:** February 19, 2011, 12:41:58 AM »

Speed!!!!!!!

Trimman2 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 19, 2011, 05:30:30 AM »

The only difference in our houses is the fried guardian heads we have. My teammate is rolling a Teal Rhino and me, I have an Ogre Pearl finished at 500 abralon with Brunswick High Gloss Polish. Difference between the two us is speed, by about 2.5mph. He targets around 15 at the arrows out to 7 or 8 board , were I'm playing straight up 7 or 8.

Owner says he putting in new synthetics next month. Yeah right!!!! I'm not holding my breath, heard him say that a few times.

shiftuneTNV · « **Reply #9 on:** February 19, 2011, 12:26:22 PM »

i tipically ball down to my onyx vibe thats drilled pin over middle finger cg swung way right with the surface at 1000 with powerhouse delayed reaction on it and i usually move deep and loft the heads and play something like 20 to 15 works pretty well at all the old wodden houses around my area

Hammer90
Nothing Hits Like a Hammer
DLBIII

Good Times Good Times · « **Reply #10 on:** February 19, 2011, 06:53:43 PM »

Lately I've been in the mentality of "manage the pocket" with my pin up Anaconda at 2000 with polish. It's almost at times like 1 or 2 boards of adjustment translates into either no move or something like a huge move.

GetOffMe10Pin

-"If you want to make enemies, try to change something." - Woodrow Wilson

al_g · « **Reply #11 on:** February 20, 2011, 10:45:47 AM »

Here's a couple of things I do:

1. What I prefer to do is take a pin up pearl to 2000 ab. taking the shine off but not making it completely dull. This helps it pick up earlier but backend less. This takes away the over/under but since it's not completely dull it will still get through the front part of the lane.

2. What I've been doing lately with good results is using a soft hand. I take almost everything off the ball. Very little grip pressure and not hitting up on it at all. On wood you usually have a lot of friction anyway so you don't need to help the ball. You just need to feed it to the breakpoint consistently and hitting up on it can cause over/under.

"The conditions i'm talking about are when you have a ball that you have "located" at the break point jump like crazy and leave a 3-6-10, then move 1 board left and throw the same shot and the ball never recovers and a 2-10 or a bucket is left."

If this is happening to me and I think I have the right ball in my hand I'm lined up wrong. Typically I'd try to move further left and slow my ball speed down. A lot of times for me that really opens up the lane.

Djarum · « **Reply #12 on:** February 22, 2011, 10:34:38 AM »

I personally think an old resin ball or even an old particle ball works well. I have done the weak drilled balls, and the problem is that resin is still too reactive off the dry, at least for me. I don't care how weak the ball is drilled either. The idea is, at least for me on spotty lanes, is to increase friction on the oil and decrease friction on the dry. This is where some of the old high load particle balls come into play. Even some urethanes have similar qualities.

So, is there any tread left on the tires? Or at this point would it be like throwing a hot dog down a hallway? - Stewie Griffin

Good Times Good Times · « **Reply #13 on:** February 22, 2011, 10:54:29 AM »

Good points made by all, hopefully some other bowlers can contribute here. A lot of comments here coincide with what i've heard firsthand at league. A lot of people bump in and soften up with a dull pearl, a lot of people go urethane. A lot of different routes and options.....

GetOffMe10Pin

-"If you want to make enemies, try to change something." - Woodrow Wilson

lsf_21 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 22, 2011, 11:09:44 AM »

Speed with weak pearl.

Author Topic: How Do You Attack Spotty Old Wood? (Read 2599 times)

Good Times Good Times

How Do You Attack Spotty Old Wood?

Sikfish

Re: How Do You Attack Spotty Old Wood?

NeumannKnight

Re: How Do You Attack Spotty Old Wood?

MrPerfect

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vkowalski1970

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JohnP

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mainzer

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bullred

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Trimman2

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shiftuneTNV

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Good Times Good Times

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al_g

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Djarum

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Good Times Good Times

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lsf_21

Re: How Do You Attack Spotty Old Wood?