I can confirm that an "old school" urethane plays a bit different than a modern resin ball. I have a Blue Hammer, with a "classic" label setup - very smooth. Ball is at 1.000 grit wet sanded (I assume that''''s what it was OOB in its days), and what really makes it "different" is the little traction the cover has. For me, most of its friction comes through the surface prep, and the rolly/early breaking label setup.
It reaction is very mild and arcing. As mentioned before, due to the label setup it breaks early, so its breakpoint shape is very even. Best line for me is between 1st and 2nd arrow straight down, with gradual adjustments to hold the line. Only on REALLY dry lanes I can swing it, and - miracle of miracles - it does NOT burn up!
What''s astonishing, though, is that the ball works this way on a very wide range of conditions - from almost bone dry to real mediums and even more. And when it hits, it is either a loud shattering of pins (I suppose it is its massive and hard construction) with a good strike, or just permanent 9 pins with varying single leaves. It has for me relatively little room for error, no room for recovery for shots that went too close to the gutter (washouts galore). But it is great for drying lanes/heads and as a training tool.
Overall I''d rate it more versatile than many modern balls. It is really different from a typical reactive from today. I can see/feel with it what made a "good bowler" in the early 90ies
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DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany
Confused by bowling? Check out BR.com''''s vault of wisdom: the unofficial FAQ section</font id=''''Arial''''>Edited on 12/17/2009 2:03 AM
Edited on 12/17/2009 2:07 AM