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Author Topic: how to handle dry lanes  (Read 2950 times)

machine35

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how to handle dry lanes
« on: September 28, 2011, 10:51:51 AM »
I joined another league and i was bowling on possibly the driest lanes i had ever been on. i had to make adjustments in the middle of the first game and ended up with a 199 but had one of my lowest games in a long time in a league, 125. i ended at lleast on a good note with a 180. what can i do to adjust to the lane conditions? my balls are black widow, nighthawk menace, and a nvs



 

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Re: how to handle dry lanes
« Reply #1 on: September 28, 2011, 06:59:38 PM »
 
Try to cut down the rev rate and use weaker equipment. On dry conditions I think the weaker covers hit better. The rest will depend on your ability to follow the shot wherever it takes you. Keep an open mind.  My league is a second shift one and usually before we are finished I have moved quite a lot. Good luck.
 
 


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Edited by notclay on 9/28/2011 at 7:07 PM

David Lee Yskes

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Re: how to handle dry lanes
« Reply #2 on: September 28, 2011, 10:55:37 PM »
Urethane,  if that is still too much, Plastic..........
 
put away your Resin stuff and go old School...... 


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John D Davis

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Re: how to handle dry lanes
« Reply #3 on: September 29, 2011, 12:21:43 AM »
As was stated just above......NOTHING better than a good ol plastic or urethane ball on dry lanes. I have used plastic ball in tournaments from the start especially if its a cheetah pattern or something short and have lead them,etc. It will however take practice to get comfortable with any of the two. People just have to understand where to play with them and also at times not to swing it like we often do with the reactives.

 

 

I personally dont like urethane because I dont have a ton of revs causing it to fluff on the backend, where as plastic kinda gives me the look of a reactive if thrown correctly. And remember there is no shame in using a ball like this. I have been in leagues where people use them just to be asses, and are not even trying to score... Now there are some balls though such as plastic that have a simple weight block in them, and then they are others that has basically nothing as a core. I throw an Ice storm, and if I am not mistaken it has a pancake shaped core in it. Hope this helps ya, John

charlest

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Re: how to handle dry lanes
« Reply #4 on: September 29, 2011, 06:03:50 AM »
Ironically, I also hit a wicked patch of dry on Tuesday night. So after suffering a game and a half, I moved way right and used my spare ball. 
If I hit 9 board I was fine.
If I hit10 board, it went brooklyn.
If I hit 7 or 8, I left a washout.
Once  I hit 7, it skidded way out to 3 board and hooked back to the pocket. 
If I moved 2 boards further right from where I was standing for my original 9 board strike ball, it hooked early and again went thru the nose.
I guess I should moved into 40 and thrown a stronger backend pearl, as the outside was incredibly spotty as well as being bone dry.
 
Next week I'm bringing some kerosene and a few matches ....
 
 


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Edited by charlest on 9/29/2011 at 7:54 AM
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dizzyfugu

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Re: how to handle dry lanes
« Reply #5 on: September 29, 2011, 07:54:21 AM »
A strategic solution would be a MUCH weaker ball in your arsenal, e. g. en entry level reactive piece or a urethane ball (one with more than a pancake core remonnended to create some drive). With strong reactives, esp. when they are drilled to hook a lot and/or early, you rather fight with the equipment than actually play with it.

 

On a short term basis - and depending on your release and game - switching to a polyester spare ball is a valid option. If you have an accurate game you should be able to keep a consistent game, but there's the danger of deflection and scattering pions, since a spare ball hardly gets into a roll and it won't keep pins as low a s a more tacky reactive piece. IMO, a second best option when anything else fails.

 

You can try to use your current equipment, but you might need to employ several release tricks like:

- added speed (higher adress position)

- less hand/revs (un-cup your wrist, even bending it back)

- prolong the skid phase up front (turning wrist inwards, up to the point that PAP points stright at the pins)

 

These are not patent recipes - you have to judge by the ball's reaction, your consitency and what you leave after a hit.

 

When I still had my Trauma a couple of years ago it was a great ball for rather dry lanes, despite its powerful core, strong cover and rather strong layout. But I was able to tak almost any hand out of the release and fling it down 10th board, and its low RG would still get it into a roll in the back end for good carry. Never expected this, but found this use out in training. Nevertheless, I personally prefer a urethane derivate on dry/ridden lanes, my black Pure Hammer, Slate Blue Gargoyle and even an indestructible 1993 Blue Hammer are preferred choices that let me play comfortably with little compromise to lines and release options.


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scotts33

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Re: how to handle dry lanes
« Reply #6 on: September 29, 2011, 08:08:47 AM »
How dry is dry?  Everyone's idea on the lane condition at hand and lane play can be different.  In a general sense anywhere inside of 3rd arrow is out of most Joe Bowler's comfort zone.  Weaned on a  house wall most don't want to get off that area of the lane to play.  Just my take.

Scott

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kidlost2000

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Re: how to handle dry lanes
« Reply #8 on: September 29, 2011, 09:21:22 AM »
Find the oil. Style has a lot to do with it as well. Plastic can be an option. Urethane is not always a solution. If they are dry urethane hooks. Personally I keep moving left and adjust with equipment to something weaker sometimes. Other times you can keep moving left and stay with something aggressive that is shinned and still have a good entry angle to the pocket.
 
A lot depends on as mentioned, how dry is dry. If your playing 30 or 35 to 10 and still hooking too much it maybe time to go a little more direct and with more speed using plastic or something else a little weaker. Sometimes it is a matter of leaving make-able spares and sparing them. 


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stiknstring

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Re: how to handle dry lanes
« Reply #9 on: September 29, 2011, 09:46:46 AM »
A wise old coach told me when I was younger that its as simple as move left...throw right.  I have had nights that I was shooting at 25 as if I were shooting right of the 10 pin.  CRUSHED it.  If you cannot get it done by moving your feet on the lane, THEN try changing either your equipment (weaker but its easier) or your wrist position (a little more difficult for most amatuers)

 

 


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charlest

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Re: how to handle dry lanes
« Reply #10 on: September 29, 2011, 01:17:55 PM »
You can most certainly add Valentino's UFO to that list:
 


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Zanatos1914

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Re: how to handle dry lanes
« Reply #11 on: September 29, 2011, 03:07:52 PM »
Good question -- What is dry condition...

 

Everbody has a personal definition of this condition...

 

Just send me 2 the bar if the mids to the back are burned up..  Thats game set and match....

 


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Cyril The Syrup

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Re: how to handle dry lanes
« Reply #12 on: September 29, 2011, 03:49:57 PM »
Stand left and  LOFT!!  



Zanatos1914

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Re: how to handle dry lanes
« Reply #13 on: September 29, 2011, 04:05:40 PM »
Thank you Sir...

 

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0hCanada wrote on 9/29/2011 3:10 PM:

 Maybe you should learn how to bowl then.






Zanatos1914 wrote on 9/29/2011 3:07 PM:

Good question -- What is dry condition...



 



Everbody has a personal definition of this condition...



 



Just send me 2 the bar if the mids to the back are burned up..  Thats game set and match....



 


2 Fingers 4 Life
I Am The 3 Fingers Nightmare




2 Fingers 4 Life
I Am The 3 Fingers Nightmare

ccrider

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Re: how to handle dry lanes
« Reply #14 on: September 29, 2011, 04:33:11 PM »
Move left, and ball down if necessary. If you understand ball reaction as you see it, it is not hard to figure out when the cover and/or layout is too strong and the ball is burning up.

 

There are times when you move left, to get to the pocket but you have the wrong entry angle for the best carry. Last night, after shooting 234, 234, I shot 189 for the third game with my virtual gravity nano. (Lost the high series pot by 17 pins).  In the third game,  left 4 ten pins, and an 8 pin. Changed to my backlash in the sixth. seventh and eighth and through strikes playing up ten, but the finger insert popped out and I could not find any glue. Picked the Nano back up in the ninth and tenth went 9/ split-.  I missed the pocket one time, but was definitely not getting to the pocket correctly by the third game and moving my feet was not the answer. I needed to ball down as plastic was hooking like a resin off the track by the middle of the third game. Just moving left is not always the complete answer.


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