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Author Topic: Resurfacing a Urethane piece  (Read 7604 times)

Spider Ball Bowler

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Resurfacing a Urethane piece
« on: August 04, 2008, 11:39:53 AM »
I just bought a Columbia 300 C/Beast or something on eBay.  I just know it's one of the Urethane Beasts, well according to BBR.

Now, I realize that urethane and reactive resin equipment are completely different, but has anyone tried taking a urethane ball to say 2000 grit or even 4000 grit abralon?

I wonder how it would affect the reaction of the urethane ball....hmmm....
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Ahhh Disco Biscuits!
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six pack

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Re: Resurfacing a Urethane piece
« Reply #1 on: August 04, 2008, 10:03:16 PM »
I did this to my thunderflash,made it very smooth on med/dry lanes.
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The harder I try the harder they fall
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The harder I try the harder they fall

Moon57

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Re: Resurfacing a Urethane piece
« Reply #2 on: August 05, 2008, 05:17:16 AM »
I also bought a C/Beast off EBay awhile back. I made the mistake of taking it down to 220 in order to refresh the surface. It took alot of time in the spinner to get rid of the 220 sanding lines. The ball seems to work well but haven't got to try it on toast yet.
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Moon
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So many questions, so little time but I'm having fun.
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Pinbuster

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Re: Resurfacing a Urethane piece
« Reply #3 on: August 05, 2008, 07:14:34 AM »
You can do about anything with the urethanes but it takes a lot longer.

They are slower to sand down and harder to polish up.

I used to polish all my pieces in the 80's. You can make them shine and it gains quite a bit in length.
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KDawg77

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Re: Resurfacing a Urethane piece
« Reply #4 on: August 05, 2008, 07:27:31 AM »
My experience with urethane on even drier conditions of today is that you better have surface on it. I wouldn't take it higher than 400 grit if you intend on it being a possible strike ball.
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Ken
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rustylegacy

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Re: Resurfacing a Urethane piece
« Reply #5 on: August 05, 2008, 11:24:44 AM »
Unless its real dry it will just skid. My 1st ball was a stingray/c, similar core with a top flip block added. Probably same cover, anyway at 600 or 800 its very early and needs some oil. I tried higher grits because I wanted a dry ball, then if it hit any oil it wouldnt move. Also as stated its pretty tough stuff to cut through. I personally think you need to be more accurate to use urethane.
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dizzyfugu

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Re: Resurfacing a Urethane piece
« Reply #6 on: August 05, 2008, 11:29:22 AM »
quote:
You can do about anything with the urethanes but it takes a lot longer.

They are slower to sand down and harder to polish up.


Second that - and I found that the reaction differences between sanded in rougher or fine grits or even with polish are much smaller than with a reactive ball. That why I settled with my Blue Hammer on a matte 1.000 grit surface - very smooth arc, and it works for me on this ball from dry to medium conditions. And since the urethane is so hard or durable, the ball hardly tracks out at all.

When the big bang comes, two things will survive: cockroaches and urethane balls...
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