BallReviews
General Category => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: six pack on December 28, 2017, 12:29:40 PM
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For one league I bowl in it seems you get punished using stronger equipment. A whole lot of splits and very strange leaves despite how good the ball looks going off the deck. Itls not just me as I see other bowlers constantly get punished in this house. On the other hand I also see low rev up and in bowlers do very well topping the ball and throwing a straight shot and carry pretty good so Im putting the reactive stuff away and going urethane only. Anyone else have ever had the same issues in a particular house? I would rather grind out games instead of the ordeal of leaving pins on the deck.
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I never thought I'd say this, but as soon as the Shadow Ops comes out, I'm going.to have 2 urethane balls in the bag. If you see a need for urethane, use it. Sometimes, less is more.
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Another option is to drill a reactive resin ball weaker (about 2" from your PAP). This will substantially reduce the back-end move of the ball and keep you in play. You can still benefit by the cover being able to absorb oil (instead of oil sitting there and causing a differtent set of problems) and your carry will be better.
Urethane has some serious limitations in my book...
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Also, something to consider. Just because you can hook a ball a ton doesn't mean it is the best way to carry or even hit the pocket. Lost in all the discussion of urethane vs resin is the fact that most of the Pros have changed their axis rotation and are playing much straighter than was the case a few years back, regardless of what surface they are throwing.
Your release, not surface or core, is the biggest factor in ball reaction. Note that none of the guys throwing urethane today are slow hooking the lane like was predominant in the urethane era.
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OP, I've had a similar issue bowling at a few different houses and going to urethane allowed me to tighten my angles and board coverage while still reading the lane properly. It allowed me to worry about my release since I had more room than the stronger equipmwnt that made me feel like I had to be perfect. I like the concept that notclay mentioned, but it hasn't worked for me on house shots because the core never turned over. The stability of the core doesn't help me unless there's a ton of friction down the lane. For you, a shorter pin might be more beneficial in this situation.
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I don't think it's the shot or my release that's the problem. I think it's the pins,they look to be twister's. Not sure but they look exactly like them and I've heard some complaints that the pins were the issue. never had such weired leaves in any other center's I've bowled in. they also have a different sound to them like hitting cinder blocks.
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I put all my reactive equivalent either in the closet at home and one in my buddies locker at the alley just in case.
But yeah I bowl in 2 different centers found I was doing better with my plastic spare ball.
I have recently purchased the new hammer black widow urethane that usually works for me unless the lanes are bone dry then its living and die with my plastic ball.😆
So I can relate to what you are saying.
Just got urethane if you can.
Everything old is eventually new again even in bowling.
Just you alls wait till the old school rubber ball makes a come back.😆. Well maybe not The rubber ball the ball returns don't like the old rubber balls.😆
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Tried urethane and do not like it. Plastic with surface gives me a more reactive look without the huge overall hook.
My favorite ball to play with here lately is a newer Columbia Scout (black) that has a pancake weight block and reactive cover. Keep the ball lightly sanded and get a very smooth reaction that is not as sensitive to oil as urethane and not anywhere close in reaction to what most reactive resin gives you.
http://123bowl.com/bowling-balls/columbia-300/scout-r-black/
video shot with twister pins
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I like 2.5 inch pins on some equipment, but it has to be the right ball. I may try it on an Infrared or Truth. Not sure yet.
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I bowl in one house that has Twister pins, one that has Brunswick pins and one that has AMF pins.
I see no difference in how the pins react.
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Tried urethane and do not like it. Plastic with surface gives me a more reactive look without the huge overall hook.
My favorite ball to play with here lately is a newer Columbia Scout (black) that has a pancake weight block and reactive cover. Keep the ball lightly sanded and get a very smooth reaction that is not as sensitive to oil as urethane and not anywhere close in reaction to what most reactive resin gives you.
http://123bowl.com/bowling-balls/columbia-300/scout-r-black/
video shot with twister pins
This video makes me want to try a Scout.
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I bowl in one house that has Twister pins, one that has Brunswick pins and one that has AMF pins.
I see no difference in how the pins react.
There is a house that I bowl at a few times a year where the pins fly like they've been mowed down by a wrecking ball. I am not throwing the ball any harder or getting better entry angle to carry. The pins are clearly lighter and I am convinced on that alone that I would average 10 pins higher there than in my home house.
With all that said, maybe you have the good fortune of consistency in pin weights despite the pins being made by different manufacturers.
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I bowl in one house that has Twister pins, one that has Brunswick pins and one that has AMF pins.
I see no difference in how the pins react.
There is a house that I bowl at a few times a year where the pins fly like they've been mowed down by a wrecking ball. I am not throwing the ball any harder or getting better entry angle to carry. The pins are clearly lighter and I am convinced on that alone that I would average 10 pins higher there than in my home house.
With all that said, maybe you have the good fortune of consistency in pin weights despite the pins being made by different manufacturers.
Pin weights have a very limited range to be legal. Even the "Gold" pins fall within that range, just at the very top of the limit.
What you are seeing with active pin action in a particular house probably has more to do with the side boards than the pins.
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Dont know but carry in this house is way different the other house I bowl with amflight pins. Neither house is walled up either
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Dont know but carry in this house is way different the other house I bowl with amflight pins. Neither house is walled up either
Gutter depth can have a major affect as well.
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As has been mentioned, the flat gutters (depth) and kick-backs are major contributors to scoring.
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I felt the same way. My strongest ball for league is a Hustle Ink, then a Super Natural, and the Ride. The Hustle Ink is just too much ball that I have to put it away during the first game. I just got a Black Widow Urethane, thinking that this way the answer to all my problems. Finally got it after waiting almost a month, and bowled with it for the first time in league. Needless to say that it didn't work out so well and had to go back to the Ride. The BW wasn't carrying no matter where I played and kept leaving single pins or splits.
Any suggestions for a surface change? It just has a very light coat of polish on it at the moment.
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...Any suggestions for a surface change? It just has a very light coat of polish on it at the moment.
I hate polish. :)
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I felt the same way. My strongest ball for league is a Hustle Ink, then a Super Natural, and the Ride. The Hustle Ink is just too much ball that I have to put it away during the first game. I just got a Black Widow Urethane, thinking that this way the answer to all my problems. Finally got it after waiting almost a month, and bowled with it for the first time in league. Needless to say that it didn't work out so well and had to go back to the Ride. The BW wasn't carrying no matter where I played and kept leaving single pins or splits.
Any suggestions for a surface change? It just has a very light coat of polish on it at the moment.
I would try 500 or 1000 on your widow. urethane is about early mid lane and a calm backend. carry is another thing but since I cant carry with the strong stuff I would be happy with makeable spares. be ready to grind and be left out when the scoring frenzy hits,you will be on the outside looking in.
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Typical house shot gives so much over under on the oil line that urethane is a good option for many styles. On flatter patterns, the length of the oil is more determinative in choice between resin and urethane
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Maybe the house with better carry has these installed. -- JohnP
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMJUpjemtRk
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I finish with maroon scotch brites on virtually all my urethane (use coarser for Red Razor and much higher grit for Ogre).
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Maybe the house with better carry has these installed. -- JohnP
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMJUpjemtRk
two other houses I bowl in must have those.... not.
I have a hyroad nano and a street fight that I really like but not in the problem house. I've tried all sorts of reactive with same results spanning 3 years and I'm 15 pins lower in average in the problem house. you keep it up ten to 15 board you can shoot decent, anywhere else and the carry is baffling despite how well the ball enters the pocket. reactive wont allow me to play there for very long. I'm giving up on reactive in the problem house and going urethane.
I have a storm thunderflash that I hit with a maroon scotchbrite and an original black hammer in 1000 grit and have my eye on the black hammer remake.
BTW I think the issue is this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrEgZkwvazQ
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shot 2 games over with the T Flash and 1 game under with the Black Hammer, a little surface tweaking and I think I'll be set. I really enjoyed bowling in this house with the urethane as it felt I could make shots and not be punished. the other bowler's on my pair had some issues with bad leaves that I didn't have,house dose not have twister pins so I'm lost to the reasons why the strange leaves.
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I agree with Avabob. Your release style is by far the overwhelming factor in determining ball motion. It also dictates the type of equipment that works best for your particular release style. I am speed dominant. Therefore, 99.9% of the conditions I bowl on
demand that I use resin equipment. I almost never get over-under reactions on THS due to my speed and straighter trajectory, but many of my teammates do .
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Whenever I need reminding why I have reactives I take my 16lb Red Razor out like I did today. With perfect throws it crushes racks as hard as any ball I have ever seen minus the Quantum Helix but man it also leaves more pocket splits than any of my other balls by a long shot. I have to really earn a nasty leave with my Hy-Road but my Red Razor gives me at least 2 non baby splits a game (I don't tend to throw many splits due to my style). Like Bergman I probably should own at most one urethane ball if at all but for whatever reason fell in love with old urethane. Its not what I use to score though.
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I went back to an old Hammer urethane three years ago. It works fine on any lane condition and i like its consistent roll. My carry and makeable spare percentages are so much better vs the reactives. It's kind of nice just lugging around one ball now too. Haha!