For one league I bowl in it seems you get punished using stronger equipment. A whole lot of splits and very strange leaves despite how good the ball looks going off the deck. Itls not just me as I see other bowlers constantly get punished in this house. On the other hand I also see low rev up and in bowlers do very well topping the ball and throwing a straight shot and carry pretty good so Im putting the reactive stuff away and going urethane only. Anyone else have ever had the same issues in a particular house? I would rather grind out games instead of the ordeal of leaving pins on the deck.

Another option is to drill a reactive resin ball weaker (about 2" from your PAP).  This will substantially reduce the back-end move of the ball and keep you in play.   You can still benefit by the cover being able to absorb oil (instead of oil sitting there and causing a differtent set of problems) and your carry will be better. 

Urethane has some serious limitations in my book...

OP, I've had a similar issue bowling at a few different houses and going to urethane allowed me to tighten my angles and board coverage while still reading the lane properly. It allowed me to worry about my release since I had more room than the stronger equipmwnt that made me feel like I had to be perfect. I like the concept that notclay mentioned, but it hasn't worked for me on house shots because the core never turned over. The stability of the core doesn't help me unless there's a ton of friction down the lane. For you, a shorter pin might be more beneficial in this situation.

I put all my reactive equivalent either in the closet at home and one in my buddies locker at the alley just in case.

But yeah I bowl in 2 different centers found I was doing better with my plastic spare ball.

I have recently purchased the new hammer black widow urethane that usually works for me unless the lanes are bone dry then its living and die with my plastic ball.😆

So I can relate to what you are saying.

Just got urethane if you can.

Everything old is eventually new again even in bowling.

Just you alls wait till the old school rubber ball makes a come back.😆. Well maybe not The rubber ball the ball returns don't like the old rubber balls.😆

I like 2.5 inch pins on some equipment, but it has to be the right ball. I may try it on an Infrared or Truth. Not sure yet.

Tried urethane and do not like it. Plastic with surface gives me a more reactive look without the huge overall hook.

My favorite ball to play with here lately is a newer Columbia Scout (black) that has a pancake weight block and reactive cover. Keep the ball lightly sanded and get a very smooth reaction that is not as sensitive to oil as urethane and not anywhere close in reaction to what most reactive resin gives you.

http://123bowl.com/bowling-balls/columbia-300/scout-r-black/

video shot with twister pins

This video makes me want to try a Scout.

Quote from: milorafferty on December 29, 2017, 10:58:34 AM

I bowl in one house that has Twister pins, one that has Brunswick pins and one that has AMF pins.

I see no difference in how the pins react.

There is a house that I bowl at a few times a year where the pins fly like they've been mowed down by a wrecking ball.  I am not throwing the ball any harder or getting better entry angle to carry.  The pins are clearly lighter and I am convinced on that alone that I would average 10 pins higher there than in my home house.

With all that said, maybe you have the good fortune of consistency in pin weights despite the pins being made by different manufacturers.

Pin weights have a very limited range to be legal. Even the "Gold" pins fall within that range, just at the very top of the limit.

What you are seeing with active pin action in a particular house probably has more to do with the side boards than the pins.

Dont know but carry in this house is way different the other house I bowl with amflight pins. Neither house is walled up either 

Gutter depth can have a major affect as well.