Gizmo,

What did you do to get your fit "dialed in". What was the process?

I drill my thumb larger because it is oval then add tape to get it fitted snug.

Depending on the temp, humidity, ect I can add and remove tape accordingly with no issue. High humidity is not uncommon through out different times of the year in the south.

I drilled my thumb hole to fit one time. It was ok for a few games then my thumb swelled and I could not use the ball.

Tape is a bowlers friend.  If you bowl thru out the year with climate changes (hot or Cold), you have to use tape.  I do know a few who do not, BUT they are the exception.

Earl Anthony drilled a very large thumb hole and used tape to adjust it to his thumb.

Just because you use tape it does not mean you have a bad fit.

In a conversation lately with a PBA star he noted there isn't one tour player or maybe just one who doesn't start with a larger hole and then ad or remove tape.
Whether tape in the hole or on the thumb the pros bowling for money use it.

How important is it to not have tape?  Why?

Just curious.

Regards,

Luckylefty
PS no injuries to hand a super goal!
PPS a perfect "butter" clean release that people almost wonder if you are a no thumber the ideal!

For the full article, see this link:
http://www.bowl4fun.com/ron/btm04_files/btm4.htm

Taping the thumbhole

 

Taping the thumbhole needs to accomplish two things:

 

 #1: Create an airway so the thumb can move in and out without changing the air pressure in the thumbhole.

Many bowlers know to use tape to take up space in the hole, but most don’t know that it should also function as an air pressure equalizer. It takes at least three pieces of white tape layered on top of each other to produce two tiny airways on each side of the layered tape. This is about the bare minimum of airflow necessary to get a quick clean release from the thumb if the hole is snug, so keep this in mind when sizing your thumbhole.

You need to maintain at least three pieces of tape layered in the ball even when the thumb is swollen. It is ok to add as many pieces of tape as necessary to tighten the hole when the thumb shrinks, but I don’t think it is a good idea to have more than five pieces of tape in the front of the hole. Too many pieces of tape in the front will start to change the span and thumb pitch. If you don’t have room in your thumbhole for at least three pieces of tape after your thumb swells you can ether open the hole up or have your driller dill you a tiny vent hole.
            A vent hole is a tiny hole that is placed beside the thumb and exits near the bottom of the thumbhole. Vent holes used to be popular years ago and are covered by USBC rules, but they have disappeared over time; modern thumb slugs have vent holes built into them, but they often get clogged after being installed into the ball.
Ron C’s Magic Carpet is designed to flow air all around and through the product so only one piece is used.

#2 Keep the thumbhole the exact right fit.

Tape is added or removed to keep the thumbhole the exact right fit for the thumb as the thumb changes size. Very few thumbs (if any) are always the same size so something must be added or subtracted from the thumbhole to keep the fit perfect at all times. Tape can be added to the front of the thumbhole or the back or both. Ron C’s Magic Carpet always goes in the back of the thumbhole so white tape can be added to the front of the thumbhole if needed. I think that all tape should be placed at least one-forth of an inch below the top of the hole and each added piece should be placed one-sixteenth of an inch below the previous piece for easy removal.

Keep in mind that the “front” of the thumbhole means where the pad of the thumb comes in contact with the thumbhole, so it is usually a little offset from the very top of the hole. The “back” of the thumbhole refers to where the knuckle of the thumb comes in contact with the thumbhole and again this is usually offset from the center of the bottom of the hole.

I think my switch grip has a vent hole in it from the factory. I don't know though.

Gizmo, I saw your videos of pro shop tricks, and how you use the file to dig out a vent hole. Have you thought of using a hand drill and around a 3/16 drill bit to drill a hole in the side? IMO it would look like a more professional and neater job. That video may be out of date though

Tip of a bevel knife, lot simpler, lot quicker.  Just put the point of it in the vent slit near the bottom and turn it back and forth like a screwdriver until you get through the wall.  You CAN use a drill, but we're after the functionality, and if you do it right with a bevel knife it's a LOT quicker, and actually looks better than using a drill, because you end up with a nice smooth tapered hole.  Also if you're using a drill, you'll find out really quick it's not that easy unless you have 3 or 4 hands or a vice grip or something, and then you have teeth marks all over the outside of your slug . . not professional looking. 

I think my switch grip has a vent hole in it from the factory. I don't know though.

Gizmo, I saw your videos of pro shop tricks, and how you use the file to dig out a vent hole. Have you thought of using a hand drill and around a 3/16 drill bit to drill a hole in the side? IMO it would look like a more professional and neater job. That video may be out of date though

Yeah, makes sense.  If you had a tiny little screwdriver sized drill or a dremel you could put a bit into that would probably work, but that's more expensive than a bevel knife . .

Ahh I guess it would be a pain without something to hold it. I am just use to all the "garage tools," and not many pro shops have them