I just bought their personal ball oven and it seems to work well except none of all balls seem to bleed out oil.  I've had one bleed oil out and that was a gamebreaker.  Any ideas?  The bowling balls do get hot just cant figure it out why when i check on them, the ball is warm to touch but no oil appears.  Anyone have any experience with them?

Ya I'm going to try to make it warmer. I had one ball bleed so far but the others wont. It's weird

So does that mean since they are not bleeding they aren't losing any oil basically right?

I always wipe a ball before every shot with a microfiber towel and usually hit it with ball cleaner on the spinner to clean the gunk off the surface from my local center.  I keep the temp within range as suggested by innovative. My gamebreaker bleeds so that makes me feel better but I've never seen a ball soak like that does.

Don't you have to do a bit of surface prep to properly bleed them of the oil? I look forward to getting one or making one, so I need to know!!

Couple things.  Some manufacturers temperature ceiling for warranty purposes are 125, some are 140.  Taking the surface of the ball to 1000 or 500 before an oil extraction opens up the pores of the ball, allowing the oil to come out easier.  Storm brands and Ebonite brands soak up oil the quickest, with Storm being moderately high to Hammer being impossibly astronomical.  When I Detox, I get a moderate amount of oil out of 80% of Storm balls, but I get a TON of oil out of 100% of Hammer balls.  Brunswick brands and Motiv soak up very little and retain their reaction the longest with the least amount of maintenance by far.  Billy Orlikowski said at a recent seminar/workshop on some of their new releases that the Detox was also the safest and most efficient means of oil extraction, so if you have access to one of those, that will be your best option.  He DID say that normally he wouldn't recommend anything using water, because that the filler material between the core and the coverstock doesn't like water, but being that the ball is exposed to more water during a typical resurface than during a Detox treatment, and that a treatment exposes the ball to a higher temperature for far shorter a duration than with just dry heat based extraction, it's safer for the ball overall. 

It's definitely a good idea, but you've also just significantly altered your surface too . . and some people are skeptics.  "Well are you sure it doesn't just hook more because you changed the surface?"  Well when the water was clear a half hour ago, and now it looks like 1% milk, yeah, pretty sure . .

Mo recommends 360grit before baking.

I've experimented with taking a few balls down to 360 before NuBall treatments. The most recent were a Motiv Raptor P7 and Storm ROP that weren't giving back any oil. The 360 made no difference -- nothing oozed.
 
To charlest's point, if you wipe you balls down between shots and clean immediately after, there is a good chance nothing will be visably extracted. At least that's been my experience.