BallReviews
General Category => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: Kid Jete on November 19, 2008, 07:28:22 PM
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I am getting fed up with the reaction I'm getting this year at our house. I'll be the first to admit more times than not it's the indian and not the arrow but even when I do stay pretty consistant with release, speed and line it's not uncommon to get unpredictable results. A lot of this is due to our house being really small old wood house so our lane guy oils by hand and rarely touches the backends.
I'm looking for a ball I can go a little straighter with that will provide a nice hard arc to try and ingore some of the backend issues. I was thinking maybe a particle pearl or even a weaker particle but with how strong the reactive covers are now you rarely see anything like that. Would a duller weak reactive still do the trick? The only thing I'm worried about is burn out as we don't have a tremendous amount of oil laid out, there's rings but it's far from soupy. I would say medium to medium-light.
Anyway my PAP is 4 9/16 over and 1/2 up if I remember right. Revs and speed match up pretty well, if I had to guess I would say 17mph and 325-350 rpm. Speed varies from night to night though depending on where I'm playing the lanes. I'm open to any suggestions as I just sold off most of my equipment other than my Cherry Vibe, Break Pearl, Xception and WoMB... only have 4 balls now, crazy right? Anyway if anyone has any questions let me know. Thanks ahead of time for the help.
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Razyr
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it's almost always the indian and not the arrow
yes and i like this one also
don't go for a strike, go for a sure spare, we need 5 pins to win
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900 Global Creature or Creature Pearl
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If you are looking for a particle pearl, try to find the Venus by Roto Grip. It is discontinued, but might still be available from several online outlets. It has a high RG, low differential, and a coverstock that can be fine tuned to meet your needs. I've tried mine highly polished and at 4000 Abralon and it has worked well at both surfaces.
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Hook 'em Horns!
"Stats are for losers, I like winning games." - Will Muschamp, Texas Defensive Coordinator
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take a look at the Blue/Green Centaur from Visionary. it's a pure solid designed for conditions such as you state. the cover is decently strong, but the core is nice and weak, making a wonderful control ball. the OOB surface is 1000 grit, so you you'll probably need to take it up, add polish, or both. however, with the proper surface, this ball is lights out on medium light oil, over/under, and flying backs.
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to the pits!
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Visioanry B/G Centaur.....used one last night. Can't say enough good things about this ball it's bailed me out numerous times. It's gotten to the point on most THS dry outside conditions that this is the go to ball.
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Scott
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If you can find one... Revolution Renegade! Creepy, ugly, nostalgic, but a very good ball on medium to medium-dry shots.
An Avalanche Solid might come close, though 
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DizzyFugu (http://"http://www.putfile.com/dizzyfugu/") - Reporting from Germany
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Dizzy,
With his rev rate, I'd say the Renegade is too strong.
The Venus: I suspect the polished Venus would have too much backend and be susceptible to that unclean backend.
I'd have to go with either the Blue/Green Centaur or possibly either
the Brunswick Avalanche solid or the Ebonite Red/Black Bash. All are solids with very low flaring cores. Having 3 Centaurs, that is my preference.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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Try Lanemasters.
From the new line up you should try the Terminator, Counter-Strike, or Black Pearl. You can throw a little polish on the Terminator and Black Pearl and they'll be fine for medium and medium light conditions.
If you can find them, the Big Kahuna, Kong, or New Standard will also give you what you're looking for.
All of these have light or medium particle loads, which will help soften your reaction and handle carry down. I had great success with Lanemasters balls on wood lanes with backends that were not cleaned or maintained.
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220...221...whatever it takes.
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blue vibe
jazz with surface mods.
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HG:300x2(SR300 both)289(sawblade)280(SR300)
HS:792(SR300)778(SR300)778(SR300/Dr.Jekyll)
2004 NYSPHSAA team champions
2007 NYSPHSAA individual high game(300) and series(1411-6 games)
arsenal: rival arch rival dead flush blue vibe scout SR300 plastic
on the way maybe the sauce or momentum swing.
sacred heart university bowling, frosh. 67th in average 12th for rookies
ave:202.3 sport 218 THS
p.s. go leftys
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Saturn
Avalanche Solid
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The Av Solid is a decent piece, but I wouldn't put it in the "hard arcing" category. If you need something in that class that is more lateral at the break, I'd give the Avalanche Slide a nice long look. Cleaner in front than the solid, and much sharper at the turn.
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Ray Salas
Brunswick Amateur Staff
http://www.brunswickbowling.com
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Look to pick up an older Brunswick ball like a Danger Zone. On the current patterns with the volume of oil they match up really well on any medium patterns. You can usually find some cheap as well.
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Thanks guys.
So I'm hearing low flaring cores... good.
A lot of you recommending B/G Centaur or Avalanche Solid. Anything else I might want to look into or would most of you agree these guys may do the trick?
Oh and what about the OOB finish on these? I noticed the centaur is at 1000 and the Avalanche solid is ruff buff. Good at these finishes or possibly take them up a bit?
Edited on 11/20/2008 11:52 AM
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Why not do things the easy way by getting a urethane(very smooth and consistant) OR get the old puprle sumo(240 grit sanded plastic ball) VERY consistant and decently strong for a plastic ball.
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quote:
Thanks guys.
So I'm hearing low flaring cores... good.
A lot of you recommending B/G Centaur or Avalanche Solid. Anything else I might want to look into or would most of you agree these guys may do the trick?
Oh and what about the OOB finish on these? I noticed the centaur is at 1000 and the Avalanche solid is ruff buff. Good at these finishes or possibly take them up a bit?
Edited on 11/20/2008 11:52 AM
I have used the BGC with many surfaces. FYI The stock surface is 1000 grit US, which is the way Visionary defined the Scotch-Brite light grey pad. Most people regard it as 800 grit US. I find the 2000 grit Abralon (FEPA grade, not US) to be closest to the stock surface.
A lot depends on your release, ball speed and oil. Here's my best surfaces, with different releases/ball speeds:
1. 4000 grit Abralon
2. 800 grit US + high gloss polish
3. 2000 grit Abralon (stock surface)
Many people can use the stock surface on medium-light to medium oil.
Right now I'm using the polished one with light oil.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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quote:
quote:
Thanks guys.
So I'm hearing low flaring cores... good.
A lot of you recommending B/G Centaur or Avalanche Solid. Anything else I might want to look into or would most of you agree these guys may do the trick?
Oh and what about the OOB finish on these? I noticed the centaur is at 1000 and the Avalanche solid is ruff buff. Good at these finishes or possibly take them up a bit?
Edited on 11/20/2008 11:52 AM
I have used the BGC with many surfaces. FYI The stock surface is 1000 grit US, which is the way Visionary defined the Scotch-Brite light grey pad. Most people regard it as 800 grit US. I find the 2000 grit Abralon (FEPA grade, not US) to be closest to the stock surface.
A lot depends on your release, ball speed and oil. Here's my best surfaces, with different releases/ball speeds:
1. 4000 grit Abralon
2. 800 grit US + high gloss polish
3. 2000 grit Abralon (stock surface)
Many people can use the stock surface on medium-light to medium oil.
Right now I'm using the polished one with light oil.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
I would love a Centaur but I can grab a NIB Avalanche solid for 50 bucks shipped so I may have to go with that. Although Christmas is coming so maybe I can give the woman an extra 2 minutes and take my chances, Lol.