Author Topic: Looking for a smooth arc reactive (Read 10831 times)

Sn · « **on:** May 25, 2006, 03:18:04 AM »

I hate those skid/flip ball reactions and so I'm looking for a reactive ball that rolls a smooth and controllable arc. A solid reactive I suppose.

Please also give me some advice on the drilling. Should I put the pin close to the PAP to achieve the smooth arc reaction?

I'm currently bowling in a medium-heavy oiled house (around 40ft of oil) with some carrydown. And I suppose I'm a low ball speed, low rev rate stroker.

Thanks in advance!

shelley · « **Reply #1 on:** May 25, 2006, 11:34:29 AM »

Putting the pin less than ~3" to PAP will smooth out nearly any ball. But if you're looking for something not skid-snap, the ZR40 is one of the few control polished pearl balls out there. Should be very smooth.

SH

Strapper_Squared · « **Reply #2 on:** May 25, 2006, 11:40:07 AM »

Sounds as through you are looking for a ball with a low rg core, to start up earlier and smooth out the backend. As far as layout, something with pin under the fingers and cg/MB out towards your VAL (in order to be able to use a weight hole to smooth out reaction). I generally like 4" pin PAP layouts for this as it will create a lot of flare and even out the reaction somewhat. As far as cover goes, you could get away with some of the smoother reacting solids (M80 or Activator), but may want to look into something with a particle load as it tends to smooth out the reaction as well...

off the top of my head:

Action
Ultimate Inferno

I'm sure there are lots of others that would give a similar look just not thinking of them right now...

S^2

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-Strapper Squared

Most important game on the schedule: Sept 24th...

JOE FALCO · « **Reply #3 on:** May 25, 2006, 11:52:34 AM »

You might look at the AMF RADAR. Drilling is not my thing but manufacturers usually give good advice!
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Hit them light and watch them fight
J O E - F A L C O

alzgarvin · « **Reply #4 on:** May 25, 2006, 11:55:28 AM »

Just posted a listing a week ago about a pin in palm drilled Columbia Action Packed. Low RG M80 reactive cover stock. And with the pin in the palm and cg kicked right at 45 degrees and a flare reducing weighthole inside the VAL, boy is this one smooth character !! Hope this helps...Al

Long Roller · « **Reply #5 on:** May 25, 2006, 11:57:44 AM »

44 Magnum is perfect for you. Arcs hard and carries every corner
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Shane Soule

clintdaley · « **Reply #6 on:** May 25, 2006, 12:02:33 PM »

If you can find one....the Arsenal Reactive. Low Rg, very smooth reacting ball.
Very durable and can play across a variety of conditions.

Clint
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Clint Daley-Owner
Lets Go Bowling Daley
Inside Hunt Club Lanes
Salem, Ohio 44460

Track Pro Shop staff
www.trackbowling.com
www.letsgobowlingdaley.com

Sn · « **Reply #7 on:** May 26, 2006, 07:51:43 AM »

A lot of different opinion here. I still haven't decided.

Perhaps a few more questions would make things clearer.

Firstly, should I choose a solid and dull ball instead of a pearl and polished one? I suppose pearl covers promote skid/flip. Am I right?

What should the RG of a smooth-arc-rolling ball be? High or low? I totally have no idea on this one.

Does track flare promote skid/flip and if yes, should I be looking at those low differential balls?

About the drilling. I thought putting the pin close to the PAP (less than 3 3/8 inches) would cut down the skid/flip and increase roll. But some of you suggested a high flaring drilling. So I got a little bit confused.

Thank you for all your input!

azguy · « **Reply #8 on:** May 26, 2006, 08:15:41 AM »

XXcel.
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AZ Guy aka: R & L Bowlers Pro
rlbowlerspro@cox.net
www.rlbowlerspro.com

clintdaley · « **Reply #9 on:** May 26, 2006, 08:34:10 AM »

Here is what promotes the ball to be smooth (arc) off the break...

Lower rg...the quicker the ball starts to roll, it will lose more energy quicker, thus having less for the backend.

Dull surfaces. Balls that are dull create more friction between itself and the lane, thus starting the ball sooner. Pearl balls tend (not always) to be harder than solids, thus giving the pearl more skid, and polish acts as a friction reducer between the ball and lane, thus the ball goes longer before starting up if it is polished.

Mass bias balls. Balls with mass bias CAN be very angular (not that symmetric stuff can't be) but because of this, you may want to stick with a symmetrical depending on the layout you are thinking of.

For me, the closer you put the pin to your PAP, the quicker the ball rolls and the smoother it is on the backend....get it away from there and the ball goes longer with more move....same can be said for the mass bias on asymmetricals...put the mass bias near the VAL, you will make the ball start sooner, and vice versa.

Clint

--------------------
Clint Daley-Owner
Lets Go Bowling Daley
Inside Hunt Club Lanes
Salem, Ohio 44460

Track Pro Shop staff
www.trackbowling.com
www.letsgobowlingdaley.com

Long Roller · « **Reply #10 on:** May 26, 2006, 10:39:20 AM »

xxcel is a very "snappy" ball. not near a smooth arc.
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Shane Soule

charlest · « **Reply #11 on:** May 26, 2006, 06:28:12 PM »

quote:
A lot of different opinion here. I still haven't decided.

Perhaps a few more questions would make things clearer.

Firstly, should I choose a solid and dull ball instead of a pearl and polished one? I suppose pearl covers promote skid/flip. Am I right?

What should the RG of a smooth-arc-rolling ball be? High or low? I totally have no idea on this one.

Does track flare promote skid/flip and if yes, should I be looking at those low differential balls?

About the drilling. I thought putting the pin close to the PAP (less than 3 3/8 inches) would cut down the skid/flip and increase roll. But some of you suggested a high flaring drilling. So I got a little bit confused.

Thank you for all your input!

Whoa, Dude! As in "stop", "hold on", take a few steps backwards and think about the picture you're attempting to draw.

almost everyone who has replied has given you one or two aspects of what can help a bowler obtain a smooth ball reaction, but no one yet has drawn you a full picture of the path you need to follow.

A low speed bowler needs to retain energy on any oil pattern, be it medium-heavy oil or any pattern. That low speed is a more telling factor than your low revs. You may not need as strong a ball as you may think, depending on how heavy the oil actually is AND where the dry actually is. It's all a matter of matching ball coverstock tpye AND ball surface preparation to your ball speed AND the oil amount and pattern AND the lane surface.

This is a complex set of relationships. It is also why all the advice given by everyone here, including myself is little more than a crap shoot. (I wouldn't even begin to offer any balls, until I knew what may have worked for you and what may not have and WHY!) You could get lucky, but you probably will not.

Personally I wouldn't even start thinking about drillings. I'd start with ball reactions. When someone tells you a ball is "very even reacting", you must ask one or more of these questions:
- how does he throw the ball? (Does his style cause a ball to roll evenly or to skid/flip? Don't take his word for it; he may not even realize it.)
- how did he drill the ball?
- what is the factory finish and did he change it?
- on what oil pattern, lane surface and shift did/does he bowl on?

This is just to begin the analysis ...

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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

toomanytenpins · « **Reply #12 on:** May 27, 2006, 04:40:09 AM »

i can tell u what seems to be working well for me . I am a rev and speed challenged bowler. if i get the ball over 15 its like John force thru the quarter. i am usually between 13.5 and 14.5. I have a polished phenom unleashed with a 2 inch pin drilled stack leverage and the ball is flat out awesome in med to med heavy conditions. If the back ends are tame enough it will even play down and in on heavyier longer patterns. Its not jumpy and has a very predictable move to the pocket. It will recover well if you are playing deep on the drier shots ,but there has to be head oil, once the heads go away its useless without speed. Its my benchmark ball. Now if i could just fill the spots above and below it.

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my style, the art of bowling without bowling

R-Zitro · « **Reply #13 on:** May 27, 2006, 05:32:50 AM »

I have a Silver Streak SE and only keep it for the arcing reaction I get from it but it is set up w/a mid lane drill. This ball will move when the dry is encountered but very controllable it is also my spare ball w/a change of my release.

thedjs · « **Reply #14 on:** May 27, 2006, 11:45:44 AM »

I don't know if this will help, but I also have slower speed and not a lot of revs. I am bowling on a condition that could best be described as medium to medium heavy. Out of bounds right of 10 and a lot of oil in the middle.

I am using a Columbia Hyde with a little bit of shine. It is drilled with the pin 3 3/8" from the pap and to the right and below the ring finger. The cg is towards the center of the grip. I believe this is called label leverage. My best shot on these lanes is to stand with my left foot on the 20 board and throw up 10. The ball gets good length and has an nice arc type reaction. With just slight movements on the approach, the ball handles carrydown very well.

If you can still find one, I believe the Hyde might be what you are looking for.
Its a great control ball and can be left in box condition if you want to use it in a little more oil.

Just my opinion.

Author Topic: Looking for a smooth arc reactive (Read 10831 times)

Sn

Looking for a smooth arc reactive

shelley

Re: Looking for a smooth arc reactive

Strapper_Squared

Re: Looking for a smooth arc reactive

JOE FALCO

Re: Looking for a smooth arc reactive

alzgarvin

Re: Looking for a smooth arc reactive

Long Roller

Re: Looking for a smooth arc reactive

clintdaley

Re: Looking for a smooth arc reactive

Sn

Re: Looking for a smooth arc reactive

azguy

Re: Looking for a smooth arc reactive

clintdaley

Re: Looking for a smooth arc reactive

Long Roller

Re: Looking for a smooth arc reactive

charlest

Re: Looking for a smooth arc reactive

toomanytenpins

Re: Looking for a smooth arc reactive

R-Zitro

Re: Looking for a smooth arc reactive

thedjs

Re: Looking for a smooth arc reactive